Quarantine Process - What's Overkill and What's Standard

I'm curious how people approach the quarantine processes. There was a link shared earlier today but it went back to some posts from 2008 - 2015 and there was some pretty tedious steps mentioned (i.e. 3 months up to a year in QT, etc...). Wondering what's overkill and what's standard.

I have one healthy BP and I plan to introduce a BOA from a respectable breeder. Both are/will have forever homes (large pvc enclosures) so should I move the Boa's forever home to another room for 90 plus days? It seems to be much easier to put the BOA in a small plastic container for 90 days but that would probably mean I would have to buy a UTH as well as hope my room ambients are correct.

I also understand that other things need to be kept separate (water bowl, feeding tongs, etc..) and not to handle both w/o taking a shower and changing clothes in between. What about treating the new snake w/ a mite prevention??

Sorry to create another thread on this but I've seen methods change over time and was just curious what everyone does today.

I think you'll get mixed opinions on this but I learned the following standards:

1. Quarantine has to be done in a different room from the other animals.
2. Use a different enclosure from the one you will be using later. A suitable plastic box with holes is fine.
3. Minimalistic setup with just paper towels, a water bowl, hides and the technical setup (heat mat, thermostat, etc.)
4. Use different tools that don't come in contact with your other snake. If they don't stay in the enclosure of the new snake, clean them with boiling water after they've come in contact with the animal and/or the enclosure.
5. Always clean your hands afterwards. If you can, disinfect them. Maybe even use disposable gloves.
6. Only interact with the quarantine enclosure when you're done interacting with your other pets (reptiles) for the day.
7. The animal should be quarantined for at least 3 months.
8. You should do least 2 fecals in that time frame. They should be done at an interval of at least 2 weeks. (German standard)
9. Change the water daily.
10. Change the paper towels daily or every second day.
11. Check for mites daily.
12. Look for signs of IBD (especially with a Boa).

--> It can be that snake will display no signs of IBD even if it's already ill. Boas can have IBD years before
developing symptoms. It's a bit like AIDS in that regard.

This is what I learned. Hope this is helpful to you.

If I do go the route of buying a cheap plastic container are there any threads or instructions on setup? Can you tape a UTH to the bottom of these? Of course, I'll be using a thermostat. My one concern is ambient temps so how do people control this during the quarantine process. My forever homes have an RHP and two UTHs to control both sides.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Caali

I think you'll get mixed opinions on this but I learned the following standards:

1. Quarantine has to be done in a different room from the other animals.
2. Use a different enclosure from the one you will be using later. A suitable plastic box with holes is fine.
3. Minimalistic setup with just paper towels, a water bowl, hides and the technical setup (heat mat, thermostat, etc.)
4. Use different tools that don't come in contact with your other snake. If they don't stay in the enclosure of the new snake, clean them with boiling water after they've come in contact with the animal and/or the enclosure.
5. Always clean your hands afterwards. If you can, disinfect them. Maybe even use disposable gloves.
6. Only interact with the quarantine enclosure when you're done interacting with your other pets (reptiles) for the day.
7. The animal should be quarantined for at least 3 months.
8. You should do least 2 fecals in that time frame. They should be done at an interval of at least 2 weeks. (German standard)
9. Change the water daily.
10. Change the paper towels daily or every second day.
11. Check for mites daily.
12. Look for signs of IBD (especially with a Boa).

--> It can be that snake will display no signs of IBD even if it's already ill. Boas can have IBD years before developing symptoms. It's a bit like AIDS in that regard.

This is what I learned. Hope this is helpful to you.

---

I agree with this but for #11 I pre-treat the QT tub or enclosure, hide, and paper substrate with a permethrin-based mite spray the day before the snake arrives, and I wipe the snake down with Reptile Relief when it comes out of the shipping box. If it has mites I'll know almost immediately and I will have a jump on treating for them. If it doesn't have mites, no harm done.

In the US and Europe a 90-day QT is pretty typical, assuming the snake shows no health problems. Otherwise the 90-day clock resets to start on the day the snake no longer is sick or has a clean fecal.

In Australia exotic vets are recommending a one year QT due to some of the viral diseases there. They haven't (yet) been found in collections in Europe or the US.

You can set up a plastic tub much like a tank - UTH, thermostat, secure lid, hides, water bowl, newspaper. Putting a hide over the UTH helps trap the heat under it if your room ambient is on the low side.

Ok this is great information and I'll try and follow it completely.

Do most people use their forever home or construct a cheap plastic tub enclosure for the quarantine process? If the latter, can someone provide some instructions on going about this?

I have a home-built 3-level 54 qt rack I use for QT. Obviously I'm not buying adult retics, but it works for everything else, even small adult boas.

If I get a small snake that doesn't need a tub that large I just put a lot of cheap plastic home-made hides in it.

How do species differences figure into this (if at all)? For example, if you have a python and get a kingsnake then do you still need the same quarantine time or is it lower due to diseases not being communicable between vastly unrelated species? Something like mites could of course still go from one to the other.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dboeren

How do species differences figure into this (if at all)? For example, if you have a python and get a kingsnake then do you still need the same quarantine time or is it lower due to diseases not being communicable between vastly unrelated species? Something like mites could of course still go from one to the other.

---

Parasites like worms, mites, and crypto can move not only between snake species but between reptile species.

Ninety days is the minimum, and if another critter is added to QT then the clock resets for all.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bcr229

Parasites like worms, mites, and crypto can move not only between snake species but between reptile species.

Ninety days is the minimum, and if another critter is added to QT then the clock resets for all.

---

Yup, and the lower the metabolism the longer the quarantine. So, I personally would quarantine a ball longer than an active rat snake.

i think my style of QT is fairly simple but i might get pegged on some of my methods. :oops: lmk if you anyone thinks i missed something!

- simple storage tubs from home depot with 3 to 4 holes soldered into the sides (be in a well ventilated room or outdoors to do this). the tubs are less than $10 for a 32 qt and they have smaller ones as well. put something heavy on top or use luggage straps to keep the lids secure.
- i have not pre-treated any of my QT tubs; i probably wouldn't advise others to follow suit.
- UTH adhered to the underside with aluminum tape. i use Ultratherm UTHs with Herpstats or VE300s, so the UTH will never get hot enough to create an issue with this.
- tub(s) has to be in another room from your established collection.
- thoroughly inspect the animal upon arrival. contact your breeder, whether everything is right or something is wrong.
- i use ReptiChip for everyone without legs. you can't beat how much you get for $20 so i like to use it up. i have yet to have a mite issue *knocks on wood* so i'm sure others will advise against this and i do too; i'd probably listen to them if you're truly worried about mites.
- check the enclosure as regularly as you would everyone else, but plan to check on them AFTER checking the established collection or just schedule to do it on a different day. i like doing it on a different day, because this gives me a chance to clean any equipment like if it's a feeding or weigh day; i'm frugal and haven't bought a second set of stuff yet. :)
- wait it out for 3-6 months. i do 3 month QTs because i like to think i can trust the health guarantees from the breeders i've bought from.

my 2 latest additions just graduated QT at the end of june, it was exciting! i've had someone in QT since 2016! technically Corny is still in QT, but all of my pythons are in my rack now and it's super neat!!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

- simple storage tubs from home depot with 3 to 4 holes soldered into the sides (be in a well ventilated room or outdoors to do this). the tubs are less than $10 for a 32 qt and they have smaller ones as well. put something heavy on top or use luggage straps to keep the lids secure.

---

Thanks for the info tttaylorrr! The 32 qt look to be about 24 x 16 so I'm curious what size of UTH you used. I see a 6 x 11, 11 x 11, 11 x 17, 11 x 23 etc...

Maybe the 11 x 17 since it will completely cover the width and less then half of the length?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Thanks for the info tttaylorrr! The 32 qt look to be about 24 x 16 so I'm curious what size of UTH you used. I see a 6 x 11, 11 x 11, 11 x 17, 11 x 23 etc...

Maybe the 11 x 17 since it will completely cover the width and less then half of the length?

---

p sure i use an 11"x17" ultratherm...ill try and get a pic when im home of one of my QT tubs.

my understanding is in Boas that they are carries of IBD and it may never show signs of it. I've read somewhere that ball pythons are kinda of used as a parakeet in Boa collections. I'm just going off memory on this . I'd do a whole lot of research into this. reason i have no Boas in my collection, just ball pythons. someone can correct me if i'm wrong on all this

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dboeren

How do species differences figure into this (if at all)? For example, if you have a python and get a kingsnake then do you still need the same quarantine time or is it lower due to diseases not being communicable between vastly unrelated species? Something like mites could of course still go from one to the other.

---

Last I read on it, it was thought that colubrids can carry IBD & share it (with your pythons & boas) while not succumbing to it, so I think you'd be wise to do the
same quarantine for both. As others said, plenty of other things they can share too....they aren't that different.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sugar shane

my understanding is in Boas that they are carries of IBD and it may never show signs of it. I've read somewhere that ball pythons are kinda of used as a parakeet in Boa collections. I'm just going off memory on this . I'd do a whole lot of research into this. reason i have no Boas in my collection, just ball pythons. someone can correct me if i'm wrong on all this

---

I would heavily recommend doing a "boid panel" on the incoming boa - see here


You should also quarantine for a minimum of 90 days - infections can take awhile to exhibit symptoms and mite eggs between scales can take 2 months to hatch in some cases.

I just purchased a 32 quart tub and a 11x11 UTH (Flukers) for my quarantine process. If the UTH is regulated by a TSTAT, anyone see any harm on on where I place the tub if the UTH is taped to the bottom? I wouldn't think it would be an issue since it should only be set to around the mid 90s.

Also, I assume a drill will be sufficient to drill holes in the tub? Does it matter how many? Sorry, I've only worked w/ PVC enclosures before.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

I just purchased a 32 quart tub and a 11x11 UTH (Flukers) for my quarantine process. If the UTH is regulated by a TSTAT, anyone see any harm on on where I place the tub if the UTH is taped to the bottom? I wouldn't think it would be an issue since it should only be set to around the mid 90s.

---

idk about Fluker's UTH but ive never had an issue with my Ultratherm UTHs resting on anything.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Also, I assume a drill will be sufficient to drill holes in the tub? Does it matter how many? Sorry, I've only worked w/ PVC enclosures before.

---

i think people recommend you put tape on both sides of where you want to drill to help prevent the tub from cracking. i put 3 holes on each side.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Also, I assume a drill will be sufficient to drill holes in the tub? Does it matter how many? Sorry, I've only worked w/ PVC enclosures before.

---

If it is a fairly sturdy tub, probably not too much has to be done. Pressing down onto scrap wood is another option to prevent cracks. Or the soldering iron/wood burning tool that folks here like, it makes the smoothest holes.

# of holes depends on desired humidity and your typical household humidity. Unless you're super dry, start with 6 or 8 holes, half on opposite sides, and place sibstrate/water dish and test with a hydrometer for a day or 2 to dial in the # of holes to add above that number.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tttaylorrr

idk about Fluker's UTH but ive never had an issue with my Ultratherm UTHs resting on anything.


i think people recommend you put tape on both sides of where you want to drill to help prevent the tub from cracking. i put 3 holes on each side.

---

Thanks tttaylorr! I wanted to go w/ Ultratherm but the local Repticon today only had ZooMed and Flukers and the latter looked just like Ultratherm (no sticky backing).

I think we have the same tub from Home Depot. Which method of hole punching did you use?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Which method of hole punching did you use?

---

soldering iron (done outdoors!)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bcr229

I agree with this but for #11 I pre-treat the QT tub or enclosure, hide, and paper substrate with a permethrin-based mite spray the day before the snake arrives, and I wipe the snake down with Reptile Relief when it comes out of the shipping box. If it has mites I'll know almost immediately and I will have a jump on treating for them. If it doesn't have mites, no harm done.

---

So I purchased a bottle of Prevent A Mite (PAM) as well as Reptile Spray for the upcoming delivery of my BOA next week. Since both are extremely poisonous, I'm a little hesitant to use PAM on the enclosure since it's a brand new tub w/ new hides and water dish. I would think it's more important to just use the Reptile Spray on the BOA and then introduce PAM if mites are found? Anyone agree?

Also, I assume Reptile Spray can be just sprayed on the snake or is their a recommended way to apply?

You apply the Provent-a-Mite the day prior so it has time to fully dry out before your boa arrives.

When using Reptile Spray I like to apply it to a white paper towel and wipe the snake with it. There's less waste than if you try to spray the snake, it doesn't stress out the snake, you can get more even coverage and apply it under their chins, and if the snake does have mites they'll stick to the paper towel. I usually wipe them down right as they come out of the shipping box.

Some last minute questions as I await the arrival of my new BCI (tomorrow).....

I have the quarantine tub setup w/ two hides and a water dish. It's been sprayed w/ PAM over 24 hours ago.

Humidity is around 65-70%. I had my hot side floor temp set to 88 degrees but I ended up bumping it to 91 because the paper towel substrates were only reading in the low - mid 80s. I know with other substrates, a snake can burrow and reach the floor but w. paper towels is there a different protocol here? Are those temps good?

Also, I put about 4 holes on all 4 sides. I would assume this is enough ventilation for him?

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

I'd actually remove the water bowl. With PAM you really don't want it near anything your snake can ingest unless it's completely 110% dry, so if the bowl was filled with water and/or sprayed with PAM, give it a thorough wash and don't put it back in the tub until it's been 48 hours since you've used PAM.

I could have the more paranoid opinion here, but it doesnt hurt to be extra careful just in case ^^

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Some last minute questions as I await the arrival of my new BCI (tomorrow).....

I have the quarantine tub setup w/ two hides and a water dish. It's been sprayed w/ PAM over 24 hours ago.

Humidity is around 65-70%. I had my hot side floor temp set to 88 degrees but I ended up bumping it to 91 because the paper towel substrates were only reading in the low - mid 80s. I know with other substrates, a snake can burrow and reach the floor but w. paper towels is there a different protocol here? Are those temps good?

Also, I put about 4 holes on all 4 sides. I would assume this is enough ventilation for him?

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MissterDog

I'd actually remove the water bowl. With PAM you really don't want it near anything your snake can ingest unless it's completely 110% dry, so if the bowl was filled with water and/or sprayed with PAM, give it a thorough wash and don't put it back in the tub until it's been 48 hours since you've used PAM.

I could have the more paranoid opinion here, but it doesnt hurt to be extra careful just in case ^^

---

Appreciate the concern. I sprayed my enclosure and hides >24 hours ago w/o the water bowl in the enclosure. And then tonight, I put the water bowl back in the cage. I just assumed the PAM would dry in a couple or hours (or at least that's what I saw in one of the videos I watched).

Any opinions on this??

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Appreciate the concern. I sprayed my enclosure and hides >24 hours ago w/o the water bowl in the enclosure. And then tonight, I put the water bowl back in the cage. I just assumed the PAM would dry in a couple or hours (or at least that's what I saw in one of the videos I watched).

Any opinions on this??

---

Aah ok if you sprayed w/o the bowl it should be okay. I've seen 24 hours mentioned as the minimum to wait to ensure it's completely dry so absolutely nothing gets in the water. 48 hours tend to be the "be absolutely safe" range I've seen mentioned and practiced.

However I admit I have had not enough experience with PAM as far as what to call safe or not, but I tend to lean towards the extra safe routes lol. So if anyone who has dealt with this often can confirm that be great!

Also congrats on your new baby coming home soon! I bet you're excited!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Some last minute questions as I await the arrival of my new BCI (tomorrow).....

I have the quarantine tub setup w/ two hides and a water dish. It's been sprayed w/ PAM over 24 hours ago.

Humidity is around 65-70%. I had my hot side floor temp set to 88 degrees but I ended up bumping it to 91 because the paper towel substrates were only reading in the low - mid 80s. I know with other substrates, a snake can burrow and reach the floor but w. paper towels is there a different protocol here? Are those temps good?

Also, I put about 4 holes on all 4 sides. I would assume this is enough ventilation for him?

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

---

Good on humidity.

Hot side floor temp is better at 88F than 91F.

BCI's like 86-88F or so. 90F is pushing it for them and 91F probably means she won't want to be there.

My hot side, depending one where under the RHP and Heat tape I measure (I use both on the hot side of my 6X2 Boaphile), ranges from about 86-89F, with an average of about 88F.

I bet you cannot wait!

Make sure to post pictures and then let him be for a while!

Good luck!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dakski

Hot side floor temp is better at 88F than 91F.

BCI's like 86-88F or so. 90F is pushing it for them and 91F probably means she won't want to be there.

My hot side, depending one where under the RHP and Heat tape I measure (I use both on the hot side of my 6X2 Boaphile), ranges from about 86-89F, with an average of about 88F.

---

Noted about needing to lower my hot side floor temp to 88 but what if the Scott Towel on top is reading low/mid 80s and the floor temp is 90? I understand they can burrow in other substrate but what about Scott Towels? I have two Towels overlapped so maybe I can cut them to avoid doubling up.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Noted about needing to lower my hot side floor temp to 88 but what if the Scott Towel on top is reading low/mid 80s and the floor temp is 90? I understand they can burrow in other substrate but what about Scott Towels? I have two Towels overlapped so maybe I can cut them to avoid doubling up.

---

Paper towel shouldn't cause much of a temperature difference. Are you putting anything on top of it to simulate the snake's weight, like a book? If not you can get a thin air gap between the tub floor and the paper towel, which will cause the paper towel to give you a false cool reading.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bcr229

Paper towel shouldn't cause much of a temperature difference. Are you putting anything on top of it to simulate the snake's weight, like a book? If not you can get a thin air gap between the tub floor and the paper towel, which will cause the paper towel to give you a false cool reading.

---

Maybe that's it! I was just hitting the paper towels w/ a temp gun. With that said, I'm wondering if I should lower the surface temps a little bit (currently at 90-91).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ckuhn003

Maybe that's it! I was just hitting the paper towels w/ a temp gun. With that said, I'm wondering if I should lower the surface temps a little bit (currently at 90-91).

---

Put it this way, if it's 90F on the bare floor, do not go any higher if just using paper substrate.

If just using paper towels, I would aim for 88-89F on the bare floor.

Or, put a hide on top and read the temp in the hide, or lift for a second to read. I agree, paper tends to read a little lower when no weight is on it .

I could not figure out how to post a new thread so I am commenting on this one lol anyways, I have a couple snakes on a rack in my garage. I understand that it is recommended to quarantine in a separate room but what do you think about doing the quarantine in a small hydro/grow tent inside the garage? or do you still think its too risky? I have a spare closet that I can do the quarantine in so im not too worried but I figured I would just ask. Thanks for any info