How do you deal with a agressive/snappy/stressed snake? Training them?

I have been lucky so far and almost all my snakes are easy to handle except for Miss Snow. I did not see a thread about it so I thought I would use this for everyone to offer training tips for those who have those "BIG" personality critters that nip anything that moves.

I watched a video or 2 about paper towel training large constrictors. I use this method because it doesn't offer the snake anything that will hurt their teeth if they bite it. It is very visual. It seams to be working so far. It seams to be a good way to let them know I am not food and that it means human interaction is going to happen. I train with it regardless of the personality of the snake. Hormones can change the personality of the snake as they grow so is always great to train them all IMO.

To get them adjusted to training I fallow this method.

For my ball pythons. I hold them calmly in my lap until they get out of the ball position and begin to explore then limit the handling to a few min at a time till they get use to it. Then gradually increase handling them from there.

My Retic requires more attention. She doesn't sit still when you first take her out. She is on the move and want to explore everything.

I have herd of tap training them with a snake hook.

1. What methods do you use?
2. Why do you use the method you use over another method?
3. What are things you don't like about other methods?
4. Do you train all, none, or only aggressive ones?

Please be detailed. I want this to be educational for everyone.

Any snake or Ball Pythons in particular?

I find that one method works great with Ball Pythons but would never, ever attempt that with a Blood Python, LOL !!

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Originally Posted by zina10

Any snake or Ball Pythons in particular?

I find that one method works great with Ball Pythons but would never, ever attempt that with a Blood Python, LOL !!

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What would you do different with your Blood Python?

Let them get acclimated. Take things slow. No reason to rush handling when the snake you own will be with you for 10-20 years. You have plenty of time to get them to stop wanting to eat you.

I tend to feel most snakes are never aggressive just stressed and defensive. Time and a stress free environment works wonders.

Also, your temperament and willingness to be bit means the world to being able to handle a snake. You have to accept that on a long or short enough time line you will be bit and that is ok. If you constantly go in with fear and hesitation, you are going to have a snake that picks up on that and gets defensive. Learn your snake's movements and techniques to approach a snake. Figure out their habits and when they are active enough to be handled. You handle them when they tolerate being handled, not when you want to handle them.

Lastly, a snake never has to have physical contact for emotional support. They are not dogs, they can go their entire lives never being touched and be just fine. Handling is for your benefit, not theirs.

1) tap training

2) i hate that its called that because i NEVER TAP my retic, i lightly brush, then lift slight with the hook and then slide my hand under him while reading body language, but by time the hook is supporting a small section of him, he is already bolting up the hook and to my arm cause he likes his piggy back rides though the house (as seen in my profile photo). i will never hold the hook with feeding tongs/food pray. NEVER MIX THE TWO OR ASSOCIATE THE TWO. i haven't had any incidents in the 7 months i have had him but i have heard stories, but those are also taken with a gain of salt cause you know how they can be blown out of proportion.

3) i have never looked at other methods, when i was considering a large snake, i was always told to hook train and really pay attention to body language and be confident with movements, not fast, but concise and predictable (meaning the same thing every time for the same goal no exceptions, so feeding movements that i do are completely different from "hey lets hang out and play"), even things i do in his enclosure are on different sides as to how i approach him, i feed on the right and handle from the left. and cleaning/water change he is removed for that.

4) i dont train my smaller snakes (royals), no need and they are all friendly, i have had a few royals that were snappy but i worked with them slowly and over time to get rid of that defensiveness.... and i wouldn't say its training my retic, its more of a routine for certain interactions to protect myself for when he is a lot larger... but i guess you could say its training because sometimes when he does see the hook he does run up to his glass now and waits (just moved him out of a tub system).

i hope this helps!

Zack

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Originally Posted by SDA

Let them get acclimated. Take things slow. No reason to rush handling when the snake you own will be with you for 10-20 years. You have plenty of time to get them to stop wanting to eat you.

I tend to feel most snakes are never aggressive just stressed and defensive. Time and a stress free environment works wonders.

Also, your temperament and willingness to be bit means the world to being able to handle a snake. You have to accept that on a long or short enough time line you will be bit and that is ok. If you constantly go in with fear and hesitation, you are going to have a snake that picks up on that and gets defensive. Learn your snake's movements and techniques to approach a snake. Figure out their habits and when they are active enough to be handled. You handle them when they tolerate being handled, not when you want to handle them.

Lastly, a snake never has to have physical contact for emotional support. They are not dogs, they can go their entire lives never being touched and be just fine. Handling is for your benefit, not theirs.

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I agree. You bring up good points. Allowing them time to distress and adjust to their new environment and providing adequate husbandry is key to the happiness of the snake. Also they don't need us to handle them, but we do as pet owners. I think is good you point out that "eventually it will happen" and you will get bit if you have them long enough. I also think it is good you point out the fact that leaving "fear and hesitation" out of your mindset when dealing with them is great. That way, when the bite happens you don't act in fear but you understand what is going on and don't hurt the snake or yourself more by reacting wrong.


How would you deal with being bitten and care for the bite?
My answer: Clean it out and treat it like any other wound. Get stiches if needed. Try to understand what caused the bite to prevent it from happening again.

If the snake refuses to let go how would you get them to let go?
My answer: I keep some form of alcohol in a sprayer (last resort) near by. Most of the time they let go just as quickly as they bite.

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

My answer: I keep some form of alcohol in a sprayer (last resort) near by. Most of the time they let go just as quickly as they bite.

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I would suggest white vinegar instead as rubbing alcohol can be dangerous if ingested. White vinegar stinks and will sting like alcohol but it won't make your snake sick.

If you meant alcohol like vodka or gin, save that for your own medicinal use to recover. :D

I'm going through this now with my rescue Burmese python as she's 15 months old and her prior owner physically abused her and scared her every time he picked her up, so she has reason to be very wary of being handled over and above typical baby defensiveness. So far I've done the following:

- Put her in a bag, put her on my lap, and sit in a chair so she gets used to my smell and some movement while in a secure space.

- Put a shirt I wore in the enclosure with her (swap them out every day or so), so something that smells like me is in her hide.

- Hook hook hook hook!

- Never pick her up or come at her from above, always slip the hook under, lift, then get a hand under her when I need to pick her up.

- When she's in-hand she's supported from underneath and never restrained or grabbed; if she wants to run she can run.

- Even if I can't pick her up every day, she gets a light rub with either the hook or my hand for a few seconds twice a day every day when I check her enclosure.

- Watch the lighting and shadows in the room so I'm never backlit while handling her.

She has improved slowly over the past year but there's still a long way to go and I don't expect she'll ever be as chill as many Burmese pythons are. At least she no longer immediately strikes the hook when she's touched with it, but she will still strike out when in-hand at sudden movements and shadows.

I will whack Caesar in the head with a twisted paper towel if he goes ballistic when i open the cage door but that is pretty rare. Usually he just cruises over and i pet him. The one time i used a hook on him as a baby, he hissed, coiled up and opened his mouth. He really hated the hook.

As for my other snakes, i have never tap trained any of them.

Nothing says get over your fear of snake bites like having to handle a very upset green tree python every few days. After learning to dodge that level of speed, all other snakes are in slow motion!

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Originally Posted by SDA

Nothing says get over your fear of snake bites like having to handle a very upset green tree python every few days. After learning to dodge that level of speed, all other snakes are in slow motion!

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Lol you have never dealt with the speed of a hungry retic. Nothing like seeing a 8-9 foot snake slam a guinea pig or jumbo rat with so much authority, it shakes glass doors on a cage stack lol. I actually hate feeding him and the big boas. Their size and mass along with the size of their heads just makes it kind of scary lol. I like feeding the little guys and Pat. They are all cute when they shoot out at the food and coil it up. When the big ones shoot out, shake the cage with their mass, coil the food and rip it off the tongs, not so cute lol.

Most of my snakes are pretty food oriented but I wouldn't label any of them as defensive anymore. I hook train all of my critters with a slight tap or rub just to let them know there's no food coming. After that they're all pretty easy to handle. The only snakes I didn't hook train were my kings. They weren't snappy and they're too small to do any damage even if they did bite me.

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

Most of my snakes are pretty food oriented but I wouldn't label any of them as defensive anymore. I hook train all of my critters with a slight tap or rub just to let them know there's no food coming. After that they're all pretty easy to handle. The only snakes I didn't hook train were my kings. They weren't snappy and they're too small to do any damage even if they did bite me.

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My Kings are the only ones I ever had any hesitation grabbing years ago. I was never afraid of their wimpy bites, but they were the most likely to strike when I reached in. Now, with my current King, Django, when he's in shed or in a mood (very rare) I don't even bother with him. If I reach in and he gets "excited" like he's being fed I just wait him out. He figured out pretty quickly and calms right down.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SDA

Let them get acclimated. Take things slow. No reason to rush handling when the snake you own will be with you for 10-20 years. You have plenty of time to get them to stop wanting to eat you.

I tend to feel most snakes are never aggressive just stressed and defensive. Time and a stress free environment works wonders.

Also, your temperament and willingness to be bit means the world to being able to handle a snake. You have to accept that on a long or short enough time line you will be bit and that is ok. If you constantly go in with fear and hesitation, you are going to have a snake that picks up on that and gets defensive. Learn your snake's movements and techniques to approach a snake. Figure out their habits and when they are active enough to be handled. You handle them when they tolerate being handled, not when you want to handle them.

Lastly, a snake never has to have physical contact for emotional support. They are not dogs, they can go their entire lives never being touched and be just fine. Handling is for your benefit, not theirs.

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I like almost every word of this. Great reply.

I wear leather gloves for my water python, she will nail anything that is hot when she is in her cage but once I get her out I take them off and she's fine. As for one of my kingsnakes, andromeda, I need to wear them most of the time as she will try to attack anything, she's the only truly aggressive snake I've ever owned.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...de57928314.jpg

Just about to feed my young Red Thai Bamboo Ratsnake


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...de57928314.jpg

Just about to feed my young Red Thai Bamboo Ratsnake


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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You forgot gauntlets and greaves, you'll be nothing but an angry screaming torso if you don't put some on. :P

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Originally Posted by Alter-Echo

You forgot gauntlets and greaves, you'll be nothing but an angry screaming torso if you don't put some on. :P

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I'm just glad he's only 18" long !
:)


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I was not aware that you should be training your snake?

I let all my snakes know I'm there by saying hi and gently pet them. Handling sessions are limited to a few minutes a day if it is a new pet to 15 min or more after it settled down. And it depends on the type of snake too. I can handle my king out in the living room watching tv for as long as I like and she is very chill and curious. I can't do the same with my bp who is more on the nervous side. He does better in a quiet room, no other pets but him and I.

Maybe "training" a snake pertains to those who keep intermediate and advance level snakes? Hmm. That is a lot of additional work on top of cage and care maintenance.

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Originally Posted by Alter-Echo

I wear leather gloves for my water python, she will nail anything that is hot when she is in her cage but once I get her out I take them off and she's fine. As for one of my kingsnakes, andromeda, I need to wear them most of the time as she will try to attack anything, she's the only truly aggressive snake I've ever owned.

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we have an albertisii and man, she is something. Lightning fast strike speed and movement - it genuinely makes me nervous. I got her out the other day, and she was using me like a tree, but hissing anytime my girlfriend moved, then I went to let her back in and she held onto my fingers like she was trying to squeeze the life out of me - my fingers tingled for a while after that...

Glad this thread popped up, as it's very applicable to us. Thanks! :)

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Originally Posted by Cheesenugget

I was not aware that you should be training your snake?

I let all my snakes know I'm there by saying hi and gently pet them. Handling sessions are limited to a few minutes a day if it is a new pet to 15 min or more after it settled down. And it depends on the type of snake too. I can handle my king out in the living room watching tv for as long as I like and she is very chill and curious. I can't do the same with my bp who is more on the nervous side. He does better in a quiet room, no other pets but him and I.

Maybe "training" a snake pertains to those who keep intermediate and advance level snakes? Hmm. That is a lot of additional work on top of cage and care maintenance.

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But so worth it!

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I agree with the suggestion that they need time to settle in. Which is way easier said than done, as I've never been able to sit through an entire 7 days without snuggling a new snake ;) Slow, deliberate movements are also key in gaining trust. I try to avoid reaching down at them from above, as most predators would approach them that way.

So far, my attempts at hook training have been an utter failure. Nothing pisses off my young scrub like being touched with a hook. He goes absolutely ballistic. I was told hook training would be the prudent approach, as he is very cage defensive, with cringe-worthy teeth. He hates it so much that I've been trying to man up and just use my hands whenever possible.

I've learned a few things while doing this:

a.) Slow, deliberate, confident movement is paramount when dealing with a flighty/defensive snake. Sometimes I just open the doors of his enclosure, rest my hand on the inside ledge, and sit still for awhile. Then I might just rest an open hand on him so he feels confident I mean him no harm.

b.) Learn to read their body language and MOODS. Sometimes, no matter what tricks you have up your sleeve, the animal is not in the mood to be bothered. It's important to recognize those tells, for the sake of your fingers ;)

c.) Gloves are your best friend.

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Originally Posted by Cheesenugget

I was not aware that you should be training your snake?

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It's not "training" so much as "conditioning" it not to bite.
In general snakes bite for two reasons: self-defense and hunting. Through gentle handling and tap training, we are conditioning snakes to accept interaction with people as non-threatening, and we're teaching our snakes when they can expect to be fed or not.

It doesn't mean that our snakes will never bite either. They may be having a bad day, or they may get startled and lash out, but it minimizes the chance of getting nipped. For small snakes this isn't a big deal but for bigger ones it can mean an ER visit, and potentially bad press for the hobby.

Snakes can also lose teeth when they bite, leading to an abscess or mouth infection. So, discouraging a bite is also a safety factor for them.

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Originally Posted by Team Slytherin

a.) Slow, deliberate, confident movement is paramount when dealing with a flighty/defensive snake. Sometimes I just open the doors of his enclosure, rest my hand on the inside ledge, and sit still for awhile. Then I might just rest an open hand on him so he feels confident I mean him no harm.

b.) Learn to read their body language and MOODS. Sometimes, no matter what tricks you have up your sleeve, the animal is not in the mood to be bothered. It's important to recognize those tells, for the sake of your fingers ;)

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Yes and yes. Both great pieces of advice.

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Originally Posted by bcr229

It's not "training" so much as "conditioning" it not to bite.
In general snakes bite for two reasons: self-defense and hunting. Through gentle handling and tap training, we are conditioning snakes to accept interaction with people as non-threatening, and we're teaching our snakes when they can expect to be fed or not.

It doesn't mean that our snakes will never bite either. They may be having a bad day, or they may get startled and lash out, but it minimizes the chance of getting nipped. For small snakes this isn't a big deal but for bigger ones it can mean an ER visit, and potentially bad press for the hobby.

Snakes can also lose teeth when they bite, leading to an abscess or mouth infection. So, discouraging a bite is also a safety factor for them.

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And yes to this too. Great reply

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Originally Posted by Team Slytherin

a.) Slow, deliberate, confident movement is paramount when dealing with a flighty/defensive snake. Sometimes I just open the doors of his enclosure, rest my hand on the inside ledge, and sit still for awhile. Then I might just rest an open hand on him so he feels confident I mean him no harm.

b.) Learn to read their body language and MOODS. Sometimes, no matter what tricks you have up your sleeve, the animal is not in the mood to be bothered. It's important to recognize those tells, for the sake of your fingers ;)

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Just an observation here I would like to point out.

Reasons why snakes move quickly.

1) Food. Weather it is catching or killing, this is one reason snakes move quickly.
2) Defense/ fear

If you consider this and plan your movements to not cause the snake to think you are doing one of the 2 it lessens the chance of being bitten. They associate the quick movement directly to being seen as a threat or food source for a larger predator. Snakes communicate with body language their intentions and moods are expressed really well. We just have to learn the language and respect it and get them to understand (as pets) that we are not there to cause them harm or food source.

Snakes tend to conserve energy (especially ball pythons). Some snakes are more inquisitive about things around them. I have a theory that all animals play of some sort.

I remember one time a friend of mine had box turtles. The female's favorite food was strawberries. She would often share her strawberry with her mate that lived with her. One day a new box turtle was introduced to the enclosure and was a male. The female abandoned her mate for the new guy. The first boy got depressed and stopped eating and stopped being active. They removed the new guy from the enclosure and she went back to him. He started eating again when she started showing him some attention again. Was this an emotional response or was it just a fasting period? We are talking about turtles by the way.

It is just something to think about.

I know I am late to the game here, but want to add my two cents.

My BCI, Behira, nailed me about two months ago. It was a total food response/hoping for food bite. She had her head around the hide, looking for food, and I picked her up from the middle of her body. She couldn't see my hand and got me on the arm real quick. Right after, she let me pick her up and was chill as can be.

I started hook training her. It has gone fantastically.

When I open the tank, I rub her gently with the handle side of the hook (soft handle). If she's looking curious/interested/hungry, I also show her the hook handle and then rub her again. After 2-3 rubs, she accepts that it's time to be handled and happily lets me scoop her up.

I have had no incidents or close calls since I started hook training.

She is a very aggressive feeder and even began striking at the acrylic doors at night when she saw movement. I have since put a drape over her tank so she doesn't strike and hurt herself.

Between the drape and the hook, she has not hurt herself anymore striking at the doors, and continues to be a total puppy dog when handled. She has also made zero attempts at my arm :).

I just give them a good smack in the head if they get nippy with me. Show them who’s boss!
*just kidding, 😂
I never put my hand in front of their head, unless they are a well-established docile pet, in a calm mood. I also slowly and gently touch their side before “grabbing” and picking them up. (Hook training, but with my hand)
I only have royals, if i had more agressive snakes, I probably would use an object to gently touch their side, instead of my bare hand..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skyrivers

Just an observation here I would like to point out.

Reasons why snakes move quickly.

1) Food. Weather it is catching or killing, this is one reason snakes move quickly.
2) Defense/ fear

If you consider this and plan your movements to not cause the snake to think you are doing one of the 2 it lessens the chance of being bitten. They associate the quick movement directly to being seen as a threat or food source for a larger predator. Snakes communicate with body language their intentions and moods are expressed really well. We just have to learn the language and respect it and get them to understand (as pets) that we are not there to cause them harm or food source.

Snakes tend to conserve energy (especially ball pythons). Some snakes are more inquisitive about things around them. I have a theory that all animals play of some sort.

I remember one time a friend of mine had box turtles. The female's favorite food was strawberries. She would often share her strawberry with her mate that lived with her. One day a new box turtle was introduced to the enclosure and was a male. The female abandoned her mate for the new guy. The first boy got depressed and stopped eating and stopped being active. They removed the new guy from the enclosure and she went back to him. He started eating again when she started showing him some attention again. Was this an emotional response or was it just a fasting period? We are talking about turtles by the way.

It is just something to think about.

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Ok, the thing about the turtles is really cute. I think assuming they don't have an emotional response because we don't speak their language seems short-sighted. 100% personal opinion, of course. I know many people disagree and that's doesn't hurt my feelings at all!

Sadly, Apophis thinks everything coming towards his cage is trying to feed him. He's a cuddly kitten outside his viv, then as soon as he crosses the threshold inside, his pupils turn into saucers and it's a hands-free zone!;)

This happened a few months ago after he'd been out playing like a good boy...the second he's back in his cage, he thinks it's dinner time. He'd eaten just three days before. I realized later that I'd accidentally left feeding tongs on top of his cage...I think he saw them and it was over. He has since also learned what the sound of a hairdryer means in this house:rofl:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrWtcF-ExzA&t=2s

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Originally Posted by Team Slytherin

Ok, the thing about the turtles is really cute. I think assuming they don't have an emotional response because we don't speak their language seems short-sighted. 100% personal opinion, of course. I know many people disagree and that's doesn't hurt my feelings at all!

Sadly, Apophis thinks everything coming towards his cage is trying to feed him. He's a cuddly kitten outside his viv, then as soon as he crosses the threshold inside, his pupils turn into saucers and it's a hands-free zone!;)

This happened a few months ago after he'd been out playing like a good boy...the second he's back in his cage, he thinks it's dinner time. He'd eaten just three days before. I realized later that I'd accidentally left feeding tongs on top of his cage...I think he saw them and it was over. He has since also learned what the sound of a hairdryer means in this house:rofl:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrWtcF-ExzA&t=2s

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They learn quickly when it comes to food. They must have a Great Dane brain.

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One more thing not often mentioned is patience. Taking your time and not trying to rush in to get a hold of a defensive snake pays off.

For example with me having to give Ganja shots, I will wait until she is no longer in a strike position and will take my time to secure her head. Too many people get into a rush, don't take time to read the snake, get distracted and end up bit and bloody

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SDA

One more thing not often mentioned is patience. Taking your time and not trying to rush in to get a hold of a defensive snake pays off.

For example with me having to give Ganja shots, I will wait until she is no longer in a strike position and will take my time to secure her head. Too many people get into a rush, don't take time to read the snake, get distracted and end up bit and bloody

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Good point.

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