Very new to bps but I already love my lil guy

Hi my ball python is at the age that he eats adult mice I just got him a little over a week ago he ate fine and uses his hide properly etc however I think I accidentally spooked him with his water spray bottle or he was feeling aggressive I dunno anyways I went to handle him way later on and he struck at me (keeping in mind earlier yesterday he struck at spray bottle I think water hit him dunno) anyways he was handling fine slithering on my arm being docile and now did that strike when I went to handle him so how do I remedy this like should I leave him be and don't handle him for awhile? If so how long? And if not what is the best course of action? Also as a note u usually try to keep tank temp at 82 but it drops to 77 so I turn on lamp and it hits as high as 84 sometimes... additionally he is in an area we have to pass by to do stuff as apt is sorta small he diddnt seem to mind it before but dunno.. should I cover tank sides or something? And yea sorry for all the questions but there's no stupid questions in life stupidity is not asking that which you don't know and acting like u do know and screwing up lol and finally I fed him Friday and he was docile and fine yesterday even exploring up my arm and yes he's a juvenile please assist me with the info I need ty😊

I'd suggest sticking black paper or aquarium background paper on the back and sides of the tank / glass Viv .


Difficult to tell about the timing of everything here BUT its generally accepted that you should leave them for 48 hours AFTER a feed before handling them - so they can digest properly . Most say to leave them totally alone for a week or 10 days when you first get them and then try a feed ...


As I say it's difficult to see the timing of your circumstances


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You should always handle from under the ball python. That way they won't think you as a predator.(bird) Coming from above stresses him out. Other then that Zincubus said it well.


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Hi and welcome!! Congrats on your first BP.

If I were in your shoes this is what I would do...

1) Wrap three sides of the enclosure in cardboard, dark paper, or something similar. BPs, especially when young, rely heavily on hiding and feeling secure. The dark sides will block off anything that may seem like a threat to them. They basically live withy the mentality "eat and don't get eaten" because they are primitive creatures who don't know much else.

2) Feed as scheduled. Feed appropriate sized prey on whatever his scheduled feeding day is.

3) Leave him alone to get acclimated and comfortable. There's been a lot going on of him over the last few weeks. Although it's tempting to want to handle your new pet, it's best to give them some time. You will have this pet for 30 years if raised right, so plenty of time to handle your pet. Spot clean and change water as needed, but otherwise leave him alone. Once he is settled in (I like to wait until they've eaten 3 consecutive meals without a refusal) you can start handling every few days, but not on/after feeding days or during shed. Start with short handling sessions (10 minutes or so) and gradually increase frequency and time as you desire.

Good luck! We're here for any questions you may have.

Oh, and just some friendly advice...make your threads easier to read. One big, long sentence is tough to read. People will often skip over threads like that just because they're a pain to read.
Separating thoughts and sentences makes it easier to read and more people are likely to read and reply.

Oh, and also, the above advice about handling is good advice.

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Originally Posted by craigafrechette

Hi and welcome!! Congrats on your first BP.

If I were in your shoes this is what I would do...

1) Wrap three sides of the enclosure in cardboard, dark paper, or something similar. BPs, especially when young, rely heavily on hiding and feeling secure. The dark sides will block off anything that may seem like a threat to them. They basically live withy the mentality "eat and don't get eaten" because they are primitive creatures who don't know much else.

2) Feed as scheduled. Feed appropriate sized prey on whatever his scheduled feeding day is.

3) Leave him alone to get acclimated and comfortable. There's been a lot going on of him over the last few weeks. Although it's tempting to want to handle your new pet, it's best to give them some time. You will have this pet for 30 years if raised right, so plenty of time to handle your pet. Spot clean and change water as needed, but otherwise leave him alone. Once he is settled in (I like to wait until they've eaten 3 consecutive meals without a refusal) you can start handling every few days, but not on/after feeding days or during shed. Start with short handling sessions (10 minutes or so) and gradually increase frequency and time as you desire.

Good luck! We're here for any questions you may have.

Oh, and just some friendly advice...make your threads easier to read. One big, long sentence is tough to read. People will often skip over threads like that just because they're a pain to read.
Separating thoughts and sentences makes it easier to read and more people are likely to read and reply.

Oh, and also, the above advice about handling is good advice.

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Great point about separating the sentences !!


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Originally Posted by Zincubus

I'd suggest sticking black paper or aquarium background paper on the back and sides of the tank / glass Viv .


Difficult to tell about the timing of everything here BUT its generally accepted that you should leave them for 48 hours AFTER a feed before handling them - so they can digest properly . Most say to leave them totally alone for a week or 10 days when you first get them and then try a feed ...


As I say it's difficult to see the timing of your circumstances


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I've heard the same thing about using the black paper on the side of the enclosure and holding off on handling them for at least a week after introducing them to their new enclosure. What's interesting is my breeder mentioned trying to feed them within a day of receiving them to prevent all the time that goes by where they are considering they are in a new environment. Basically it helps reduce their stress levels. Thought that was interesting because it was different then everything that Ive been reading on here.

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Originally Posted by ckuhn003

I've heard the same thing about using the black paper on the side of the enclosure and holding off on handling them for at least a week after introducing them to their new enclosure. What's interesting is my breeder mentioned trying to feed them within a day of receiving them to prevent all the time that goes by where they are considering they are in a new environment. Basically it helps reduce their stress levels. Thought that was interesting because it was different then everything that Ive been reading on here.

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I guess if it's a good feeder then there's no harm in offering within a day or so of getting them ... I've done that with bullet-proof feeders like Kings / Burms / Boas etc etc but I always let my new Royals/Ball pythons settle in for a week or so ...


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Firstly ty all for the advice second I'd like input plz.... the guys at the reptile store said they r used to lotsa traffic etc from being in the store.... not sure if that's correct or not and finally I believe I'll leave him be except for water change/substrate misting until after the next feeding/48 hours after time as he's due for feed tm..... is this seeming a good idea? And a side note..... he seemed fine till the spray bottle startled him I'm just hoping he is ok

I as well will cover glass on three sides as well but should I wait before that so as not to jar tank?

I'm sure he's ok.

I would...

a) feed as scheduled
b) leave him alone aside from spot cleaning/misting
c) feed again in a week, as scheduled

then...
assuming all goes well, start handling 48 hours after his 3rd feeding. Start with short handling sessions and gradually increase time.

Also, BPs generally don't like traffic. They stay hidden most of the time for a reason. Of course, there are exceptions to every rule, but I think until you have more experience with snakes and can read them better it's best to assume your snake doesn't want to be in a high traffic area.

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Originally Posted by Joshuawhitelaw

Firstly ty all for the advice second I'd like input plz.... the guys at the reptile store said they r used to lotsa traffic etc from being in the store.... not sure if that's correct or not and finally I believe I'll leave him be except for water change/substrate misting until after the next feeding/48 hours after time as he's due for feed tm..... is this seeming a good idea? And a side note..... he seemed fine till the spray bottle startled him I'm just hoping he is ok

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The spray startles all snakes , if I have time I occasionally spray WARM water and that doesn't startle them quite as much .

So I found out y he was aggressive aparently even tho he showed no sign of shedding he was about to he took a mouse fine friday n by early morning sat round 4 am was normal behaviour and had shed fully however I have a question I just today received stitches in my right hand from a fall I took and am wondering is it a good idea to handle him with fresh wound etc, and if not how long to wait?

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Originally Posted by Joshuawhitelaw

So I found out y he was aggressive aparently even tho he showed no sign of shedding he was about to he took a mouse fine friday n by early morning sat round 4 am was normal behaviour and had shed fully however I have a question I just today received stitches in my right hand from a fall I took and am wondering is it a good idea to handle him with fresh wound etc, and if not how long to wait?

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once the wounds scab up it should be fine to handle. in the mean i'd just avoid handling if it can be helped. if not, just be sure to thoroughly wash your hands.

It's good to let Balls feel safe and relaxed by giving them their alone time, but a small reminder that too much alone time is not helpful at all. The snake needs to know they're safe and that you don't mind that it gets grumpy occasionally.
You should definitely be waiting at LEAST 24 hours after feeding to bother them again though (as others have said).
As much as leaving them in their tank for 3 feedings (3 weeks seems way too long and detrimental to bonding at this age) seems to be a common theme for what people are saying, I would say leave them alone at max a week if you feel it's extremely necessary.
There is a way to bond with your snake to make them feel like being on your person is a second home. You can teach him you are safe.

Towel, shirt, pocket, etc training is vital for this if you have a spookable snake.
Opening the top of the tank for a min or two before sticking your hand or anything into it is smart. Snakes can be scent trained, so every time you do this blow your breath into their tank and let them smell you this way.
Taking them straight from the tank to a dark safe item of clothing that is attached to your body is the best way to greet them and it teaches them that they can smell you and the world and create a bond, without having to see you.
The big scary world is out there, and you are their fierce protector. Destroyer of tickly grass.

Because the snake is so young I have faith you can help your little friend calm down. ♡


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Originally Posted by donnadudette2003

It's good to let Balls feel safe and relaxed by giving them their alone time, but a small reminder that too much alone time is not helpful at all. The snake needs to know they're safe and that you don't mind that it gets grumpy occasionally.
You should definitely be waiting at LEAST 24 hours after feeding to bother them again though (as others have said).
As much as leaving them in their tank for 3 feedings (3 weeks seems way too long and detrimental to bonding at this age) seems to be a common theme for what people are saying, I would say leave them alone at max a week if you feel it's extremely necessary.

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Husbandry and feeding are your top priorities with new, juvenile snakes. BPs are typically very docile by nature, which is one of the major reasons they are so popular in the pet trade. Some juveniles can be anxious and nippy, but will almost always mellow out over time. Getting your snake on a proper feeding regimen should be of utmost importance, especially with juveniles.

BPs don't require handling and merely tolerate it.

As far as waiting 3 feedings, it gets your animal on a regular feeding regimen, which can be a lot more tricky than handling and cause a lot more stress and headaches to both the keeper and the animal. In the world of a BP, 3 weeks is nothing, they are more than happy to go three weeks without being handled, they will live 30+ years if kept properly. So rushing to handle your BP is not suggested, we handle for US and US alone. Our BPs don't look forward to being handled, they merely tolerate it. As for waiting being detrimental to bonding time, I have to disagree. There are plenty of snakes who are primarily breeders and almost never handled, who are then sold as adults to somebody who will keep it strictly as a pet. They have no problem being handled at even a few years old, despite not having that precious bonding time.

Well I've had success and am very proud of
it I was walking by his terrarium and he stuck his head out of the hide so I stopped n talked soothingly to him and took the screen off.
Then talked a min or two then hide. Same thing then I took a towel and scooped him up gently. he did not even try to strike, and I sat down with him a bit and he was slithering all over me exploring, as well he even allowed me to pick him up with no fuss. Once I was done I hand carried him to the terrarium and allowed him to slither down into his hide. I feel awesome that I got him back to this point

And ty to everyone for all the useful information u r all amazing

Its true that snakes don't need your companionship, to be held, etc... They can spend their whole life in a tank perfectly happy
but if you're training it to spend time with you daily and become a companion snake then training it to know exactly who you are and what you expect at a young age is the best plan.
In the long run, 3 weeks is nothing. It's true. Just like humans, when you're 35yrs old and waiting for a package from Amazon 3 weeks can be nothing, you've still got 65 years of your life left and 3 weeks goes by fast.
Now take that same human as a baby, and take him away from his mother/guardian for 3 weeks. This amount of time is dramatically more important for development and growth. The baby can learn so many new good and bad habits in those 3 weeks time that it could change them for years.

How many animals have you trained? Not just snakes. How often do you hear it's easier to teach them things when they're young? Such as gaining or losing habits, tricks, etc.
Trust is important.
If the snake spends no time learning that a human is going to be interacting with it other than "here is your mouse, I will take your poop. Good day" when you do decide you're going to interact with it it's going to get confused. "Why are you in my house touching my things? Noooo touchy! Whyyyy?!". It will think that something is different and wrong and it could cause them anxiety that something has changed.


Now as for them tolerating us holding them and not wanting physical attention, that's not true.
Once they have learned that you'd like to be their friend through general bonding, they miss us. We have a symbiotic relationship. My snakes will come to me when bored, lonely, have an itch, need help to shed, want a warm spot, etc. They know if they come to me i will interact with them. Such as my cats do.

If my snake comes to the glass when she sees I woke up in the morning, waits for me to open it, and then slithers up my arm and on to my neck to sleep for 3 hours.... you can't tell me she'd rather be in that tank and not on my person.
If when we're out at the park and she sees something move too fast or the grass tickled her and she speed slithers to me and up my body for safety, that response does not tell me that the snake is merely tolerating me.

Maybe you're not as close to your snakes, and that's why you feel like they're thinking "oh... he picked me up again. Why? Ugh. Please put me down. I have things to do" Instead of "oh hey my human! Hi human! Give me a scritch! Where are we going on our adventure today!?"

You do you, have your snakes attachment level be at your wanted level.... But training it asap is the best idea.

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Originally Posted by donnadudette2003

Now as for them tolerating us holding them and not wanting physical attention, that's not true.
Once they have learned that you'd like to be their friend through general bonding, they miss us. We have a symbiotic relationship. My snakes will come to me when bored, lonely, have an itch, need help to shed, want a warm spot, etc. They know if they come to me i will interact with them. Such as my cats do.

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I admit I was with you until you started presenting these points. I WISH I could agree with you, but the actual true, scientific manner is they, unlike mammals, do not bond with us the way you are thinking. Established trust yet, established safety yes, but not, I'm sorry, as much as I reaaaally want it to be true, they don't miss us, they don't feel affection towards it. I think you're anthropomorphizing them a tad here. They're not dogs or cats. Some will be more comfortable with their owners than others where they are more explorative and cooperative, but they don't have it within their mental capacity to decide 'hey I want a scritch! Hey you're my friend!" At best they recognize your warmth, your scent, your schedule and voice and equate you to 'safe' not 'joyful company.'

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Ok well got him normal on that week or so ago then yesterday the peice of crap on the second floor set the fire alarm for the whole building off and they evacuated everyone n all pets etc so lotsa noise smells etc and now he's not at all going in his hide just sometimes goes part way in then back out n lays beside it instead and also I had to add more heat cause it was dropping to 77 I have him in the 89 to 91-92 range now as recommended by reptile store and he may as well b adjusting to that but 1 I want to move his terrarium as it's too close to the alarm noisemaker thing and all 2 I'm really worried bout him 3 heat needs to stay where it is till it regulates with the two lamps till I can change out the bulb for higher wattage one thus eliminating need for two... so my questions are what is my best courses of action and is he gunna be ok and additionally what do I do to make him back to normal .... also to note I handle him normally 3 4 times a week and don't want him to be confused ty