Considering taking in this rescue...

Hey everyone! I am sorry to bother you all.
My mother's roommate abandoned his snake when he left, and that was over a month ago. They have been trying to find a home for it since, but with no luck. So I went over there today to take a look at his setup and feed him since he had not been fed since at least a couple weeks before the roommate left.
He is currently (just an estimation!) 4 feet-ish. He is in a 20L with only one hide and a water dish that I am pretty sure is a pyrex pie plate (lol).
He isn't in bad shape physically (as far as I can tell) and I am considering taking him in, even if I just foster him until I can find him a better home.
I do have two snakes already, and I have been doing some research on Red Tails just in case I do end up taking him. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what he is for sure (I don't know what type) and give some general tips?
I am going to hop over to tapatalk to post a couple pics, but keep in mind that they are crappy and I didn't take them (:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...3c1b0f119b.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...8a7c555588.jpg

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He needs the help, so if it were me, I'd take him in, too. :)

But please don't forget to quarantine.

Yeah that's kind of what I am thinking.
They made him out to me like he was super aggressive. He hasn't been handled much, that I can tell. But he was a perfect angel when I put him in a feeding tub (I brought that and my tongs and stuff, all washed first of course). Then he took the rat great (I wasn't sure if he would since he was always fed live mice). After he was done eating and I lifted him out of the bin to put him back in his tank... That's when the little booger starts misbehaving! He tagged me. On my forehead. Who gets bit in the forehead? lolol
From what research I have done so far, he looks to me like a BCI? But I can't be sure because I am new to this species.

I am new to snakes, and tomorrow will be the one month anniversary of the day I got my first one. Someone who knows more will have to help you with that answer.

I don't have much experience with red tails, but my some of my family does. The only thing they've told me is that they are temper-mental(then again I guess that's any boa maybe? My rosy boa is somewhat temper mental.) And the aggression during and after being fed. My sister had one at one time- I swear she's traumatized over it. It was super aggressive to where she wouldn't take care of it and had her boyfriend at the time feed it. She won't even go NEAR my tiny boa. Anyways, just depends on the snake to me. You may have to work with 'em a bit, and if it were me i'd at least take him in *quarantine* at least til you can find him a home.

Then again, I don't have much experience with boas, so if anything I have said is wrong don't hold me against it please.

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Originally Posted by Nitewolfie

I don't have much experience with red tails, but my some of my family does. The only thing they've told me is that they are temper-mental(then again I guess that's any boa maybe? My rosy boa is somewhat temper mental.) And the aggression during and after being fed. My sister had one at one time- I swear she's traumatized over it. It was super aggressive to where she wouldn't take care of it and had her boyfriend at the time feed it. She won't even go NEAR my tiny boa. Anyways, just depends on the snake to me. You may have to work with 'em a bit, and if it were me i'd at least take him in *quarantine* at least til you can find him a home.

Then again, I don't have much experience with boas, so if anything I have said is wrong don't hold me against it please.

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Thanks for this! He seemed pretty calm, aside from tagging me when I moved him. But I atteibuted that to the fact that he was fed live mice. The owner would give him one, wait till he finished and then give another. So he may have thought it was time for his second food item. But he was great other than that.

That is a great tip though so thank you!

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Originally Posted by KaylaEliuk

Thanks for this! He seemed pretty calm, aside from tagging me when I moved him. But I atteibuted that to the fact that he was fed live mice. The owner would give him one, wait till he finished and then give another. So he may have thought it was time for his second food item. But he was great other than that.

That is a great tip though so thank you!

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That is a possibility, and also the people whom were making him out to be aggressive may have been scared of him lol.
You're welcome and good luck!

1) Common BCI. Not bad looking, weight is good - he's nice and square [] like he should be. If he looked like this () he'd be fat.

2) Do not use a separate tub for feeding. Most snakes other than ball pythons remain "foody" for over a day after eating - where there is one rodent there might be another! Feed them in their enclosure. Moving any large, foody snake is begging for a nasty bite.

3) It's not clear from your post but I would switch him to f/t rats also, if that's not what he ate for you already. Eventually this guy could get large enough to eat jumbo rats, and a live jumbo can inflict damage on a snake very quickly.

4) I would set up a QT tub that's bigger than a 20L tank for him, to give him a chance to stretch out if he wants.

The forehead?! Jeeze, sorry about that. But much of what has been said is true, it was definitely in hunt/kill/eat mode when you moved him (her?). It's a beautiful BCI, by the way (technically, it's just BI now). I mean definitely quarantine it for a few months minimum, but looks like you have a fine addition to your collection. If you don't know boas, look at care sheets and keep reading this forum, it's pure gold.
My quick 2 cents would be to feed sparingly, I dont know what snakes you have already but one of the things that make boas unique is their exceptionally slow metabolism. An adult (3 to 4 years old) shouldn't need more than one appropriately sized meal (same girth as it's mid section) per month. They really are wonderfully low maintence when kept properly, one meal a month and they poop even less. Also keep handling him (but not for 2 to 3 days after eating). Mean boas are reletivley rare, but more often than not it's just a symptom of insufficient handling time. He will learn that you are not a threat, but just a squishy heated jungle-gym.
Above all, enjoy him!

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Originally Posted by bcr229

1) Common BCI. Not bad looking, weight is good - he's nice and square [] like he should be. If he looked like this () he'd be fat.

2) Do not use a separate tub for feeding. Most snakes other than ball pythons remain "foody" for over a day after eating - where there is one rodent there might be another! Feed them in their enclosure. Moving any large, foody snake is begging for a nasty bite.

3) It's not clear from your post but I would switch him to f/t rats also, if that's not what he ate for you already. Eventually this guy could get large enough to eat jumbo rats, and a live jumbo can inflict damage on a snake very quickly.

4) I would set up a QT tub that's bigger than a 20L tank for him, to give him a chance to stretch out if he wants.

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Okay thanks. I was just worried about him ingesting substrate. I wouldn't have worried if he was on eco earth (what I will probably put him on if I take him) but he is on some kind of wood chips. I think it is probably pine, as it doesn't feel soft like aspen does.

And I did feed a frozen/thawed rat. That is what my BP gets. I couldn't feed live even if I wanted to, as I live in Canada and live rats are illegal here.

Thank you for the advice!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dkatz4

The forehead?! Jeeze, sorry about that. But much of what has been said is true, it was definitely in hunt/kill/eat mode when you moved him (her?). It's a beautiful BCI, by the way (technically, it's just BI now). I mean definitely quarantine it for a few months minimum, but looks like you have a fine addition to your collection. If you don't know boas, look at care sheets and keep reading this forum, it's pure gold.
My quick 2 cents would be to feed sparingly, I dont know what snakes you have already but one of the things that make boas unique is their exceptionally slow metabolism. An adult (3 to 4 years old) shouldn't need more than one appropriately sized meal (same girth as it's mid section) per month. They really are wonderfully low maintence when kept properly, one meal a month and they poop even less. Also keep handling him (but not for 2 to 3 days after eating). Mean boas are reletivley rare, but more often than not it's just a symptom of insufficient handling time. He will learn that you are not a threat, but just a squishy heated jungle-gym.
Above all, enjoy him!

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Oh wow that is slow! Thanks for that one for sure. That is one thing I have seen conflicting opinions about on here. I may have fed him biweekly like my other two!

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Unfortunately I don't know his age or if he even had a name!

He may have to stay in the 20L just until I can find him something bigger (probably on kijiji) because our walmarts suck for container selection and we don't have container stores or anything like that where I live either.

I currently have an anery corn and female Cinnamon ball. So this guy would definitely be something different haha.
I am eventually going to get all of them into PVC cages, but they are expensive so I want to buy them as their adult enclosures, and probably at a show.

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Originally Posted by KaylaEliuk

He may have to stay in the 20L just until I can find him something bigger (probably on kijiji) because our walmarts suck for container selection and we don't have container stores or anything like that where I live either.

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If you have a Target, Lowes, Home Depot in the area they carry under-bed tubs that work well for snakes. I think WalMart also does "site to store" where you can order and pay for stuff online that they don't normally stock in your local store, they have it shipped to the store, and you pick it up.

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Originally Posted by bcr229

If you have a Target, Lowes, Home Depot in the area they carry under-bed tubs that work well for snakes. I think WalMart also does "site to store" where you can order and pay for stuff online that they don't normally stock in your local store, they have it shipped to the store, and you pick it up.

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I probably wouldn't have thought of a hardware store! Thanks

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by bcr229

1) Common BCI. Not bad looking, weight is good - he's nice and square [] like he should be. If he looked like this () he'd be fat.

2) Do not use a separate tub for feeding. Most snakes other than ball pythons remain "foody" for over a day after eating - where there is one rodent there might be another! Feed them in their enclosure. Moving any large, foody snake is begging for a nasty bite.

3) It's not clear from your post but I would switch him to f/t rats also, if that's not what he ate for you already. Eventually this guy could get large enough to eat jumbo rats, and a live jumbo can inflict damage on a snake very quickly.

4) I would set up a QT tub that's bigger than a 20L tank for him, to give him a chance to stretch out if he wants.

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I really don't have much better advice than what is posted above. It is a good looking snake keep it, grow it slow and you'll be fine it is a good rescue because you know some history at least a little and that is helpful. Do as the above post instructs and things will work out.

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Originally Posted by dkatz4

The forehead?! Jeeze, sorry about that. But much of what has been said is true, it was definitely in hunt/kill/eat mode when you moved him (her?). It's a beautiful BCI, by the way (technically, it's just BI now). I mean definitely quarantine it for a few months minimum, but looks like you have a fine addition to your collection. If you don't know boas, look at care sheets and keep reading this forum, it's pure gold.
My quick 2 cents would be to feed sparingly, I dont know what snakes you have already but one of the things that make boas unique is their exceptionally slow metabolism. An adult (3 to 4 years old) shouldn't need more than one appropriately sized meal (same girth as it's mid section) per month. They really are wonderfully low maintence when kept properly, one meal a month and they poop even less. Also keep handling him (but not for 2 to 3 days after eating). Mean boas are reletivley rare, but more often than not it's just a symptom of insufficient handling time. He will learn that you are not a threat, but just a squishy heated jungle-gym.
Above all, enjoy him!

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It really seems like people are starting to get it. I like this post as well. Boa constrictors are not garbage cans for food like some folks allow them to be. Yes they will eat almost anything at almost any time but there is good reason not to push them anything written by Vincent Russo or Gus Rentfro is worth reading when it comes to the care for boa constrictors It is nice to see a handful of people understanding how to feed these animals. My personal opinion is when winter comes they should not eat at all. This comes with some variables but if you are not breeding these animals winter is a time in their natral environment that they are not exposed to much food if any. It is best to mimic their natural setting if you can to an extent in captivity. Vincent Russo stated they grow more when they are not fed. I have found this to be true in my situation as I did not feed my male this past winter.

My last two posts are from a cell phone so I am apologizing upfront if the grammar punctuation and spelling is a bit off

My new albino coral BCI Male is just 174 grams and 24" long. I was instructed to feed him a small mouse (very small mouse) every 10 days. Didn't seem like enough food but the breeder assured me it was fine.

Does this sound correct in your opinions.

Thanks

So I know the temps and humidity they need, and I have a good idea on tank sizes. The only thing that I see so many conflicting opinions on is feed schedule.
He is about 4 feet I would guess. And a healthy weight. I have no idea of age. How often should he get a f/t rat?

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I would recommend getting a scale and weighing him. We generally feed our boa 10-15% of her body weight. She is still young so it is on a more frequent schedule right now. I know that adult boas are generally feed on a 2-4 week schedule depending on exercise and time of year. The most appropriate way to determine proper feeding by my understanding is that they maintain the "square" body shape.


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Originally Posted by BigLou3

I would recommend getting a scale and weighing him. We generally feed our boa 10-15% of her body weight. She is still young so it is on a more frequent schedule right now. I know that adult boas are generally feed on a 2-4 week schedule depending on exercise and time of year. The most appropriate way to determine proper feeding by my understanding is that they maintain the "square" body shape.


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Thanks. It isn't the size of the rats I am worried about, more the frequency of the feeds.
So basically... As long as they don't start getting fat haha

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NEVER feed until all signs of the previous meal are eliminated.

You may see a lot of conflicting advice, but I would listen to people who have boa constrictors that are 25-30 or more years old. Snakes that can still have a litter at that age.

Gus Rentfro and Vincent Russo are 2 of them. Eugene Basset is another.

Buy this and read this.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Boa-C.../dp/0978897927


Consider seasonal changes and feed accordingly.

Gus Rentfro is FULLY credited with the below literature posted here for learning purposes.

I take no credit for anything written here, but I feel it is important to read the words of probably one of the top authorities in the world on boa constrictors.


"How often do I feed my boas?"
Inexplicably, there still exists a lot of confusion about how much and how often snakes should be fed. Feed a growing red-tail as often as it will take food but wait until all signs of the previous feeding have gone. In other words, don't feed it if it is still bloated with the last meal. Depending upon the temperature cycle it is in and the size of the prey item this can take from 6-15 days. If unsure, wait another day or two. It is a practical impossibility to underfeed a normal healthy boa kept in the proper conditions. Many people find it entirely effortless to overfeed theirs! The single most frequently identifiable factor in premature death, poor fertility and other problems with captive boa, especially red-tails, is obesity resulting from over feeding.

Above is an excerpt from the old Rio Bravo Reptiles page.

It is a shame Gus is no longer working with these snakes, but it is an honor to own one produced by him.

4 year old, 6 foot plus, male, Barranquilla, Colombian boa.

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_3217.jpg

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Originally Posted by Gio

NEVER feed until all signs of the previous meal are eliminated.

You may see a lot of conflicting advice, but I would listen to people who have boa constrictors that are 25-30 or more years old. Snakes that can still have a litter at that age.

Gus Rentfro and Vincent Russo are 2 of them. Eugene Basset is another.

Buy this and read this.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Boa-C.../dp/0978897927


Consider seasonal changes and feed accordingly.

Gus Rentfro is FULLY credited with the below literature posted here for learning purposes.

I take no credit for anything written here, but I feel it is important to read the words of probably one of the top authorities in the world on boa constrictors.


"How often do I feed my boas?"
Inexplicably, there still exists a lot of confusion about how much and how often snakes should be fed. Feed a growing red-tail as often as it will take food but wait until all signs of the previous feeding have gone. In other words, don't feed it if it is still bloated with the last meal. Depending upon the temperature cycle it is in and the size of the prey item this can take from 6-15 days. If unsure, wait another day or two. It is a practical impossibility to underfeed a normal healthy boa kept in the proper conditions. Many people find it entirely effortless to overfeed theirs! The single most frequently identifiable factor in premature death, poor fertility and other problems with captive boa, especially red-tails, is obesity resulting from over feeding.

Above is an excerpt from the old Rio Bravo Reptiles page.

It is a shame Gus is no longer working with these snakes, but it is an honor to own one produced by him.

4 year old, 6 foot plus, male, Barranquilla, Colombian boa.

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_3217.jpg

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It seems like their digestion works a lot slower than I am used to. I have a Ball and a Corn.
Thank you, this really helped!
I was getting confused because people were saying how often they feed their adults, but this guy isn't an adult.
Thank you!

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Also be wary of judging health by body shape alone. A trim figure can belie internal issues such as fatty deposits compromising the vital organs. I will try to scan the pictures later, but a herp vet book i have documented a case wherein a boa was fed on a fairly good schedule with low quality rats (they were lab rats being fed an experimental diet deficient in essential nutrients) and although its outer shape was nice and square, the necropsy showed its organs were all clogged with fatty gunk. Sorry, if thats a bit graphic, and only the most extreme cases makes it into these books, i'm sure, but just... food for thought ; )

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Originally Posted by dkatz4

Also be wary of judging health by body shape alone. A trim figure can belie internal issues such as fatty deposits compromising the vital organs. I will try to scan the pictures later, but a herp vet book i have documented a case wherein a boa was fed on a fairly good schedule with low quality rats (they were lab rats being fed an experimental diet deficient in essential nutrients) and although its outer shape was nice and square, the necropsy showed its organs were all clogged with fatty gunk. Sorry, if thats a bit graphic, and only the most extreme cases makes it into these books, i'm sure, but just... food for thought ; )

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Jeeze that's a disturbing mental image! Lol
Well he was flicking his tongue and was strong and didn't feel lumpy at all, didn't have any scale rot or mites as far as I could tell. All in all he seemed in fine fettle.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by KaylaEliuk

Jeeze that's a disturbing mental image! Lol
Well he was flicking his tongue and was strong and didn't feel lumpy at all, didn't have any scale rot or mites as far as I could tell. All in all he seemed in fine fettle.

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:OOh no no no no, i didn't mean to imply that YOUR new boa might be in this kind of shape, i'm just saying for the sake of general knowledge and discussion of boa health. Oh my gosh, please dont let all this stuff make you paranoid, boas are awesome and hardy and easy to keep healthy with minimal effort (compared to some other pets, anyway). Sometimes these threads go from general advice to esoteric shop-talk, but thats kind of what makes them so great too. But when i first started reading some forums like this, everything i read made me think, "oh god, i'm killing my snake". I am willing to bet that your boa is already in good shape, and will be in great shape under your care.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dkatz4

Also be wary of judging health by body shape alone. A trim figure can belie internal issues such as fatty deposits compromising the vital organs. I will try to scan the pictures later, but a herp vet book i have documented a case wherein a boa was fed on a fairly good schedule with low quality rats (they were lab rats being fed an experimental diet deficient in essential nutrients) and although its outer shape was nice and square, the necropsy showed its organs were all clogged with fatty gunk. Sorry, if thats a bit graphic, and only the most extreme cases makes it into these books, i'm sure, but just... food for thought ; )

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OUTSTANDING COMMENT!!!!! And well researched.

This post is totally on point. The shape can look good, but won't always tell the whole story. The inner organs can still be covered by fat deposits.

Also OP, colubrids are VERY different and can take in food, digest and eat again much sooner than BC's

Some other pythons species, specifically retics can also metabolize at very rapid rates. Especially when younger.

BC's that are under a year can be fed more frequently than adults, but after the one year mark, slow things down. I vary prey size, type, and time between meals depending on the size of the previous prey item.

For reference, even though it is summer, my fella that you saw pictured, just went 1 month and 10 days between meals.

His last meal was small so I may go as soon as 21 days, but if he feeds on a decent sized small rabbit we will be waiting at least another month before the next go.

I always point out the reason the longest lived snakes in the world are royal pythons (as far as we know) is because they often regulate their own food intake. It may be frustrating, but they can and will survive for very long periods without anything. They decided when it is time to take in nourishment. Our royal has now eaten twice in 2016. Before that it was twice in the last year.

It is a design perfected by Mother Nature.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dkatz4

:OOh no no no no, i didn't mean to imply that YOUR new boa might be in this kind of shape, i'm just saying for the sake of general knowledge and discussion of boa health. Oh my gosh, please dont let all this stuff make you paranoid, boas are awesome and hardy and easy to keep healthy with minimal effort (compared to some other pets, anyway). Sometimes these threads go from general advice to esoteric shop-talk, but thats kind of what makes them so great too. But when i first started reading some forums like this, everything i read made me think, "oh god, i'm killing my snake". I am willing to bet that your boa is already in good shape, and will be in great shape under your care.

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Haha I'm not worried.
Your comment was actually very interesting. This kind of thing is the reason I love forums. There are so many neat things to learn.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Gio

OUTSTANDING COMMENT!!!!! And well researched.

This post is totally on point. The shape can look good, but won't always tell the whole story. The inner organs can still be covered by fat deposits.

Also OP, colubrids are VERY different and can take in food, digest and eat again much sooner than BC's

Some other pythons species, specifically retics can also metabolize at very rapid rates. Especially when younger.

BC's that are under a year can be fed more frequently than adults, but after the one year mark, slow things down. I vary prey size, type, and time between meals depending on the size of the previous prey item.

For reference, even though it is summer, my fella that you saw pictured, just went 1 month and 10 days between meals.

His last meal was small so I may go as soon as 21 days, but if he feeds on a decent sized small rabbit we will be waiting at least another month before the next go.

I always point out the reason the longest lived snakes in the world are royal pythons (as far as we know) is because they often regulate their own food intake. It may be frustrating, but they can and will survive for very long periods without anything. They decided when it is time to take in nourishment. Our royal has now eaten twice in 2016. Before that it was twice in the last year.

It is a design perfected by Mother Nature.

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Thank you for this comment and all your others. You have been super helpful and I really appreciate it!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dkatz4

Also be wary of judging health by body shape alone. A trim figure can belie internal issues such as fatty deposits compromising the vital organs. I will try to scan the pictures later, but a herp vet book i have documented a case wherein a boa was fed on a fairly good schedule with low quality rats (they were lab rats being fed an experimental diet deficient in essential nutrients) and although its outer shape was nice and square, the necropsy showed its organs were all clogged with fatty gunk. Sorry, if thats a bit graphic, and only the most extreme cases makes it into these books, i'm sure, but just... food for thought ; )

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OK, found it, i will spare you the pictures, but the boa died of steatitis, or yellow fat disease, which it contracted due to a vitamin E deficiency caused by a diet made up exclusively of obese lab rats who were, themselves, on an experimental diet of sunflower seeds exclusively. The photos of the snake show a perfectly fine body shape, but the fatty tissue inside is dry and fibrous/flakey looking. Someone must have known a guy who worked with lab rats, thought, "jack-pot, free snake food!" but inadvertently poisoned his pet. Sad, but shows how important it is to use trusted sources for prey and to vary diet. I know Gio is all about changing up the menu and with good reason.


Reptile Care: An Atlas of Diseases and Treatments
volume 1

Fredric L. Frye, DVM, MS
Fellow, Royal Society of Medicine

TFH Publications Inc, 1991