Tank finally done! Got some pics and advice.

I have a 20 gallon tank that I have been working on. It is finally at the point where I want it, minus a thermostat because it has not come in the mail yet. For those of you interested in keeping a glass tank here is my set up.

Overall shot of the tank.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...8ebd5e28e6.jpg

Front view.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...dba29a3969.jpg

Top view.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...acf98ee191.jpg

Warm side.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...7f65718567.jpg

Cool side.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...96699b1d38.jpg

Lid.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...14d76344ad.jpg

Side.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...6ff792609a.jpg

Dimmers for UTH and Lamp and UTH probe and hygrometer display.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15...c38406ecdf.jpg

So, I have a UTH that covers a third of the bottom on a dimmer. The probe sits above it inside the tank under the substrate. I have the tank raised using felt pads. The sides and back of the tank are covered in thick black board paper. It has a screen lid and four lid locks. I have a piece of cardboard wrapped in tin foil that has a piece of the black board on top to make it look better. The hole is big enough for the lamp and leaves about a half inch of space for ventilation. I use a 75 watt infrared bulb that is also on a dimmer. On the front the two dimmers and thermometer are attached with velcro tape for easy removal.
Inside the tank:
Fir mulch
Two identical hides
Water dish
Two identical shrubs
Two identical vines
Large grapewood stump
Two stick on digital thermometers

I also keep iodine, non pain relief neosporin, spray bottle, and runber gloves, and a clipboard that I use to monitor feeding, weight, health things, and major changes in behavior and temp/humidity underneath the tank. I am planning on moving him to a 40 gallon in a couple of months, same setup just a bigger tank.

Let me know what you guys think!

Looks good except , are those tape stuck inside the tank ? Wouldn't recommend it if they are . Tape is a big nono Inside enclosures .

Also so put some holes on the top for ventilation if there's none .

Nice looking tank, one question is the ambient room temp consistent?

Nice set up but looks like a pain to clean every month http://ball-pythons.net/forums/image...v0IKbQcTPf.png Like the others said, make sure your ambient temps are good and personally I would switch the UTH to a T-stat instead of a lamp dimmer. I'm using a Hydrofarm T-stat on my BP cage as I'm debating getting a Heprstat 2 redline or regular or another Herpstat 1 redline or regular since I already got a herpstat 1 on my red tail boa cage. The Hydrofarm works decent and keeps decent temps as checked per my temp gun. the only downside is it clicks when it comes on an off but you get used to it. And yes any tape inside the cage is a nono as snakes seem to find a way to always get stuck by the tape.

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Originally Posted by trailblazer295

Nice looking tank, one question is the ambient room temp consistent?

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No, it is winter here so at night the temps drop a lot. The heat lamp does a good job on the dimmer tho, I turn it up a bit at night and down in the morning and it keeps my temps perfect. I never have it all the way on though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

Nice set up but looks like a pain to clean every month http://ball-pythons.net/forums/image...v0IKbQcTPf.png Like the others said, make sure your ambient temps are good and personally I would switch the UTH to a T-stat instead of a lamp dimmer. I'm using a Hydrofarm T-stat on my BP cage as I'm debating getting a Heprstat 2 redline or regular or another Herpstat 1 redline or regular since I already got a herpstat 1 on my red tail boa cage. The Hydrofarm works decent and keeps decent temps as checked per my temp gun. the only downside is it clicks when it comes on an off but you get used to it. And yes any tape inside the cage is a nono as snakes seem to find a way to always get stuck by the tape.

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Thanks for the tape info, I will take it out. I just ordered a hydrofarm and a temp gun. Gonna be here in a few days.
It really isnt too bad to clean, It takes a while but I enjoy it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Borgpython

Looks good except , are those tape stuck inside the tank ? Wouldn't recommend it if they are . Tape is a big nono Inside enclosures .

Also so put some holes on the top for ventilation if there's none .

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I will remove the tape, thank you for the heads up. The cardboard has a decent gap all the way around it and the light area gap is bigger than it looks. I take the lid off daily to change water and spot clean and such.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

the only downside is it clicks when it comes on an off but you get used to it. And yes any tape inside the cage is a nono as snakes seem to find a way to always get stuck by the tape.

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I believe any non-proportional thermostat will click when it turns on and off. I have a Ranco thermostat and a BAH - 1000 thermostat and both of them click on and off.

The gap looks good to me. That pretty much looks like my top except I didn't go fancy with black paper on top and my CHE dome is mounted in the center. Mine looks like cardboard on top with wrapped ends of tin foil being held by tape http://ball-pythons.net/forums/image...v0IKbQcTPf.png Tape on the cardboard is fine as long as the screen is between it. You just don't want your snake direct access to the tape. My top also has about a 1" gap around the dome which gives good airflow.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by earthwormjim

No, it is winter here so at night the temps drop a lot. The heat lamp does a good job on the dimmer tho, I turn it up a bit at night and down in the morning and it keeps my temps perfect. I never have it all the way on though.

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That's exactly why I asked, it's winter here too. My landlord has the heat set to 65f overnight. The basement can drop as low as 64f but usually 66f and can rise to 70f or a bit more afternoon. The daily swing is why I have a UTH and pro products RHP on independent stats to control the heat. Even with my RHP on a stat when the temp drops overnight my cold side temps drop overnight but hot side is stable. You can't possibly be checking often enough to keep playing with the power adjustment to maintain constant temps. I'd suggest hooking them up to stats. I personally use ranco because I wanted a UL certified control. I'm an hvac mechanic so I wired a power bar into it. You can buy them prewired in the US if you're not comfortable doing the wiring yourself. Yes they make a click when they turn on and off. You're talking about a fraction of a second sound that isn't really that loud. They were made to maintain industrial hvac equipment and set up is easy and takes 30 seconds. My snake is in the living room so it's a non issue but even still it's not enough to disturb your sleep.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trailblazer295

That's exactly why I asked, it's winter here too. My landlord has the heat set to 65f overnight. The basement can drop as low as 64f but usually 66f and can rise to 70f or a bit more afternoon. The daily swing is why I have a UTH and pro products RHP on independent stats to control the heat. Even with my RHP on a stat when the temp drops overnight my cold side temps drop overnight but hot side is stable. You can't possibly be checking often enough to keep playing with the power adjustment to maintain constant temps. I'd suggest hooking them up to stats. I personally use ranco because I wanted a UL certified control. I'm an hvac mechanic so I wired a power bar into it. You can buy them prewired in the US if you're not comfortable doing the wiring yourself. Yes they make a click when they turn on and off. You're talking about a fraction of a second sound that isn't really that loud. They were made to maintain industrial hvac equipment and set up is easy and takes 30 seconds. My snake is in the living room so it's a non issue but even still it's not enough to disturb your sleep.

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OP pointed out in the second sentence that he is currently awaiting the arrival of his thermostat.

I agree about the sound of the click on the thermostat, it's not even worth mentioning.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trailblazer295

That's exactly why I asked, it's winter here too. My landlord has the heat set to 65f overnight. The basement can drop as low as 64f but usually 66f and can rise to 70f or a bit more afternoon. The daily swing is why I have a UTH and pro products RHP on independent stats to control the heat. Even with my RHP on a stat when the temp drops overnight my cold side temps drop overnight but hot side is stable. You can't possibly be checking often enough to keep playing with the power adjustment to maintain constant temps. I'd suggest hooking them up to stats. I personally use ranco because I wanted a UL certified control. I'm an hvac mechanic so I wired a power bar into it. You can buy them prewired in the US if you're not comfortable doing the wiring yourself. Yes they make a click when they turn on and off. You're talking about a fraction of a second sound that isn't really that loud. They were made to maintain industrial hvac equipment and set up is easy and takes 30 seconds. My snake is in the living room so it's a non issue but even still it's not enough to disturb your sleep.

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The temps on cool side fluctuate between 70-76 and the warm side is 80-88. I work from home in my bedroom and the tank is right next to my bed, so I am able to check it constantly, it is a pain in the ass though. I will look in to your suggestion. Right now I worry about being somewhere for more than a day because I am unable to adjust it. I ordered a thermostat for the uth but will for sure get one for the lamp as well.

70 - 76 is a little cold for a BP. I would try to make sure the temperature goes no lower than 75. And try and keep the warm end on the upper end of that spectrum, preferably 88-92.

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Originally Posted by tbowman

70 - 76 is a little cold for a BP. I would try to make sure the temperature goes no lower than 75. And try and keep the warm end on the upper end of that spectrum, preferably 88-92.

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Really? Damn I had though that was a good temp. It makes sense though because he has refused his last three meals so that may be why. He ate the first time I fed him but after that he hasn't. I will be sure to bump the temps up. Thank you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by earthwormjim

Really? Damn I had though that was a good temp. It makes sense though because he has refused his last three meals so that may be why. He ate the first time I fed him but after that he hasn't. I will be sure to bump the temps up. Thank you.

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He also hasn't been using his cold side hide. I feel dumb for not knowing :/

Ideally you would want to keep your cool side at 80 - 82 with a hot spot of 88-92. You'll probably notice him using both hides more often once you bump up the temps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tbowman

Ideally you would want to keep your cool side at 80 - 82 with a hot spot of 88-92. You'll probably notice him using both hides more often once you bump up the temps.

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I bumbed them up, the warm side is at 90 and the cool side is still at 75. I will probably have to move my heat lamp to the middle. His UTH is at 94

That's why I got my CHE set up in the middle. It provides more of an even ambient. You don't necessarily need the hot side really hot as you have a UTH on that side but you do want the cool side at least 80f. I have my temps set 83f cool side, 86f warm side and 91f UTH and my little girl never uses her cool side. Some just like it warmer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

That's why I got my CHE set up in the middle. It provides more of an even ambient. You don't necessarily need the hot side really hot as you have a UTH on that side but you do want the cool side at least 80f. I have my temps set 83f cool side, 86f warm side and 91f UTH and my little girl never uses her cool side. Some just like it warmer.

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I am going to move it tomorrow, I also have some foam board for the sides and back that I am hoping will insulate it and hold in heat better. Thank you very much for your help.