How active are Ball Pythons?

Hey my question is as put in the subject. I just got my BP two days ago. This is my first BP ever to own so I have a lot to learn about their behaviors. I don't know how long is my baby but it's about 20 inches long and it's not very active. It has its hour or 2 when it travels all over the tank but then it hides in the tree bark, curls up in a ball and stays there for hours. I put a dead mouse in the tank and it comes up to it opens its mouth but doesn't eat it and goes back to the bark. Is it normal behavior? How often do your BP "walk" around their tanks?

Your snake isn't called a ball python for nothing. They ball up and hide most of the day. In fact, if your ball python is active, usually that means that there's something wrong. How's your husbandry? Are you warming up the dead mouse? When was the last time it are? Post a picture of your setup. And length of your snake doesn't help much, let us know the weight of the snake (in grams).


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They are pretty much pet rocks

Don't get me wrong, I love to hang out with them but really they don't do much.

Yes, I do warm them up. I put it in a plastic bag and run with warm water. I can't tell the last time it ate, I bought it at petco and since every day a different person works there they couldn't tell me. I will post a picture of the set up in a minute and weigh it as well.

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Originally Posted by arke95

Yes, I do warm them up. I put it in a plastic bag and run with warm water. I can't tell the last time it ate, I bought it at petco and since every day a different person works there they couldn't tell me. I will post a picture of the set up in a minute and weigh it as well.

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I'd give him more time to settle in. BPs can go a long time without food and won't eat if they are not comfortable.

Lazy as it gets :gj:

Every now and then mine will have bouts where it tries to escape at night. She searches for a hole in the top. Or at times when I'm in the room, she will come to the door wanting out.

But for the most part she's like a Bloodhound on the front porch on a hot summers day.

It weights 74g.
Here are pictures of my tank. Don't mind the quality of the pictures, the lighting in my room is not good for pictures hehe. :)

RIGHT SIDE VIEW
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...pscb8e1469.jpg

FRONT VIEW
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8193596c.jpg

LEFT SIDE VIEW
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...psb5728feb.jpg

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Originally Posted by Reinz

Every now and then mine will have bouts where it tries to escape at night. She searches for a hole in the top. Or at times when I'm in the room, she will come to the door wanting out.

But for the most part she's like a Bloodhound on the front porch on a hot summers day.

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Yes! Hah, I've noticed that too. My little does that too every once in a while.

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Originally Posted by arke95

It weights 74g.
Here are pictures of my tank. Don't mind the quality of the pictures, the lighting in my room is not good for pictures hehe. :)

RIGHT SIDE VIEW
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...pscb8e1469.jpg

FRONT VIEW
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8193596c.jpg

LEFT SIDE VIEW
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...psb5728feb.jpg

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What are the temps? secondly, for a 74 gram snake, that tank is way too big. Thirdly, you need red heat bulbs.

Ball pythons are nocturnal in the wild. So it is likely they will spend most of the day out of site, doing almost nothing, and then become very active after dark.

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Originally Posted by Reed12321

What are the temps? secondly, for a 74 gram snake, that tank is way too big. Thirdly, you need red heat bulbs.

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1/3 ain't bad. :rolleyes:

1. The tank looks sufficiently cluttered for a smaller snake to feel comfortable.
2. What does the color of the bulb have to do with anything?

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

1/3 ain't bad. :rolleyes:

1. The tank looks sufficiently cluttered for a smaller snake to feel comfortable.
2. What does the color of the bulb have to do with anything?

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Red bulbs make them feel like they're in the dark as Snakes can't see red. If you have white light, they feel exposed and vulnerable. What are you using for a UTH and how are you regulating it?

Temps are 80-85. I'm waiting for UTH. It's coming in tomorrow. I do have red heat bulbs but i thought they were only for the night use. And is it really too big it's only 20 gallons

Also the thermostat is coming in tomorrow

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Originally Posted by Reed12321

Red bulbs make them feel like they're in the dark as Snakes can't see red. If you have white light, they feel exposed and vulnerable. What are you using for a UTH and how are you regulating it?

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Snakes exist during the day in the wild, having white light bulbs on during the day certainly won't do them any harm. If you were going for perpetual nighttime it seems like a ceramic bulb would be a better option anyway.

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Originally Posted by arke95

Temps are 80-85. I'm waiting for UTH. It's coming in tomorrow. I do have red heat bulbs but i thought they were only for the night use. And is it really too big it's only 20 gallons

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That size tank should be fine as Eric said your tank is sufficiently cluttered for your BP to feel safe.

During the day they are not active, but at night they tend to be. If you want to actually see your snake moving around, wake up in the middle of the night.

do they get more active as they grow?

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Originally Posted by arke95

do they get more active as they grow?

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When I first got my BP he wouldn't come out till deep in the night but now 3 years later he starts poking his head out at around 10pm but it will take him about an hour before he is fully ready to start exploring.

Suppose it depends on the individual BP and how secure they feel?

Mine just stuck his head out looked around and went back in hehe

- - - Updated - - -

Nvm its coming out from the other side now lol

I think the level of activity depends on the individual snake. I have two. One comes out every night around 10-10:30. The other is much more reclusive and quick to hide if you enter the room with her.

If you don't have your UTH to create a hot spot yet, this could be why your guy isn't eating just yet. Hot spots need to be around 90-92 degrees to help the snake digest its food properly. Make sure your thermostat is working properly too as the UTH can well exceed 100 degrees if unregulated. Also, it would be good to purchase a temp gun at some point so that you can measure your hot spots in the tank to be sure that they are correct. Lowes was having a sale on theirs last week for $20. Its a handy tool to keep!

Congrats on your new snaby! :snake:

If you are looking for an active snake, ball python was not the best choice. They don't move when happy. Something more active would be a boa or corn snake. My red tail boa is a lot more active than my BP but she's still a snake so they aren't gonna run around like a dog or hamster or gerbil.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by arke95

It weights 74g.
Here are pictures of my tank. Don't mind the quality of the pictures, the lighting in my room is not good for pictures hehe. :)

RIGHT SIDE VIEW
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...pscb8e1469.jpg

FRONT VIEW
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8193596c.jpg

LEFT SIDE VIEW
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...psb5728feb.jpg

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I'm kind of surprised that someone else didn't comment on this. From the last 2 pictures, it looks like you are using those dial-type thermometer and hygrometer. Those things are not reliable, and you could be getting inaccurate temp and humidity readings. Get yourself a good digital thermometer/hygrometer combination. Put the probe on the bottom glass, just over the UTH. Put the unit itself on the other side, to keep an eye on the temp and humidity on that side. The one that I always see recommended, and that I use myself, is http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aaron

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Originally Posted by yellowbelly76

I'm kind of surprised that someone else didn't comment on this. From the last 2 pictures, it looks like you are using those dial-type thermometer and hygrometer. Those things are not reliable, and you could be getting inaccurate temp and humidity readings. Get yourself a good digital thermometer/hygrometer combination. Put the probe on the bottom glass, just over the UTH. Put the unit itself on the other side, to keep an eye on the temp and humidity on that side. The one that I always see recommended, and that I use myself, is http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aaron

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It has been mentioned in another of Arkes threads :)

I use both a digital and analog thermometer.


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I would like to address a possible cause of your snake not eating. Most breeders start their hatchlings out on live prey. As I understand it, store like Petco and PetSmart only offer frozen/thawed. A lot of snakes don't readily convert over, and it takes time, patience, and technique, to get them to convert. I would suggest offering an appropriately sized live mouse hopper, or rat pup. If your snake eats, then continue with live prey, until they are established, then attempt to convert them to f/t.

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Originally Posted by Sauzo

If you are looking for an active snake, ball python was not the best choice. They don't move when happy. Something more active would be a boa or corn snake. My red tail boa is a lot more active than my BP but she's still a snake so they aren't gonna run around like a dog or hamster or gerbil.

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This is actually a good thread. I like threads like this because there is usually a natural progression in learning and interest in snakes once folks get their first animal.

I too started with a royal python when we purchased one for my son's 9th birthday 3 years ago.

I actually went from disinterested in snakes to full on fanatic about the biology of various species, mostly boas and pythons, but I'm fascinated by the colubrids as well.

Your royal, as said will not be very active in general. They, like most boas and pythons are nocturnal and forage less than other species of boas and pythons. Look at the body shape, thickset, stubby tailed and purely terrestrial in nature though some will, climb, semi arboreal isn't a category they'd be in.

They usually inhabit rodent burrows and either eat the rodents that are there, or ambush the ones that are walking by the area.

They are not very active, and shy by nature. their natural defense is to BALL up. Unlike some of the more active members of the 2 species that will throw out an awesome threat display and launch long, opened mouth strikes.

This is a rather in-depth topic, and there is a lot of of info, about how, and why they are how they are, but putting it simply, they are pretty inactive. However, an inactive royal, that is feeding, drinking, shedding and growing is a happy snake.

Ours does come out at night, and at certain times of the year is quite busy at night.

By comparison, my boa constrictor moves about, NEVER refuses a meal, climbs, perches in his cage, and displays a curious nature when out of the enclosure.

Of the 3, the coastal carpet python is the most often seen out and about. She is pretty fast, rarely utilizes a hide, is 60% up in her perches, and seems to tolerate handling well after the initial defensive behavior is done.

Now, ask a king snake, corn snake or any diurnal colubrid owner what they think about boas and pythons and you may find the term "active" quite relative depending on the specific species.

Long post, here for you, but the short answer is NO royals are not active, and if you want an active snake, you may want to look at something different.

There have been some great answers on this thread. Please let me help you a little bit with husbandry. I think you are clearly very dedicated to your snake, your cage is beautiful, but you have made a few rooky mistakes that you can easily fix.

1. You got a snake before you had the tank set up and running perfectly. You should have had the UTH in place before putting the snake in. I run a tank for a few days before I move a snake in, to make sure everything is good. That said, your tank is beautiful and has plenty of hides. Contrary to earlier advice, a large tank is fine as long as there are plenty of hides.

2. Substrate, what is it? It looks like pine mulch. If it is, it should not be. Make sure you have a snake friendly mulch. Aspen or cypress are alright. Keep in mind that mulches are harder to clean than paper substrates.

3. Screen top glass aquarium. I wish pet shops would stop selling these for snakes. You are loosing heat and humidity through the top. Block as much of that off as possible. You need a restricted air flow. Your dial humidity sensor seems to read below 50%. That is too low. I shoot for 50%-65% with a small high humidity hide at 75% to 90%. A wet sponge will keep a small hide humid. Your snake will use a humid spot before shed.

4. I did not see a water dish. You need a large one. BP's drink a lot. A large water dish helps with humidity.

5. You are feeding too soon. Your snake has just been through a terrible trauma. I don't feed for at least a week. When I do feed I make sure the mouse is thoroughly thawed and then I use hot water (150 degrees f) to get the mouse to ~100 degrees. I use a laser thermometer to make sure the temp is good. I also try not to handle the snake during the first two weeks.

6. The white lights are fine during the day. You should use a timer to maintain a 12 hours on off cycle. Use a ceramic heat lamp at night.

7. Find a vet boarded in exotics right away. I try to get the first stool checked for parasites and the snake to the vet within the first month for an exam. I have found that pet shop snakes can have worms and mites.

Please keep us posted on your progress. Best of luck.

David

Thank you all for your advice. That really taught me a lot.
David:
The substrate is cypress; Most of the screen top is covered with paper; As you said the humidity sensor I have sucks. I've noticed myself and I already ordered digital thermometer and hygrometer. They should come in by tomorrow; I do have a water dish it's just transparent; Also I change the bulbs: bright during the day, and red for the night. I try sticking to the 12/12 cycle.
Thank you for your concern. I know you guys are just looking out for me. I admit I'm a noobie, make some mistakes, but I want the best for my python and thank to you guys I keep on learning.

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Originally Posted by nightrainfalls

3. Screen top glass aquarium. I wish pet shops would stop selling these for snakes. You are loosing heat and humidity through the top. Block as much of that off as possible. You need a restricted air flow.

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could you please send me a link to a recommended top screen? Either glass or plastic whatever you think is better

Here is what i did for know i hope it's good enough. Please let me know what you guys think. Btw. I know I need a ceramic heat lamp it will come soon :)
http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...pscrj8doix.jpg

http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/...psmrkjoznb.jpg

Do you have tape keeping the foil on? Snakes have a way of finding tape and getting stuck to it if it's anywhere near their enclosure.

Aside from that, covering roughly 2/3 of the tank top usually works fine for humidity; cling-wrap or covering part of the lid with a damp towel also works.

Covering up the screen like you did is a good start, I would leave a little bit open on each end as well as the middle. Maybe one inch on each side. I make my own cages, so I don't have a link for you. Sorry.

I get plexiglass, mount it in an oak frame and clamp the frame to the aquarium. Then I drill holes in the plexiglass until airflow, temp an humidity are correct. This means lights cannot be placed directly on the lid, because they can overheat. I use UTH for heat. To keep the plants alive, I use an led bar inside the tank.

Still, you are asking the right questions and doing the right things. I am sure you will be an excellent BP keeper. Let us now how your next feeding goes and keep us posted on you progress.

David

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Originally Posted by DVirginiana

Do you have tape keeping the foil on? Snakes have a way of finding tape and getting stuck to it if it's anywhere near their enclosure.

Aside from that, covering roughly 2/3 of the tank top usually works fine for humidity; cling-wrap or covering part of the lid with a damp towel also works.

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Yes, I did use tape but I also made sure there is no way for the snake to get in contact with it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nightrainfalls

Covering up the screen like you did is a good start, I would leave a little bit open on each end as well as the middle. Maybe one inch on each side. I make my own cages, so I don't have a link for you. Sorry.

I get plexiglass, mount it in an oak frame and clamp the frame to the aquarium. Then I drill holes in the plexiglass until airflow, temp an humidity are correct. This means lights cannot be placed directly on the lid, because they can overheat. I use UTH for heat. To keep the plants alive, I use an led bar inside the tank.

Still, you are asking the right questions and doing the right things. I am sure you will be an excellent BP keeper. Let us now how your next feeding goes and keep us posted on you progress.

David

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I did leave small spaces open on each side, as well. Would you mind posting a picture of one of your cages? I'm really curious what the top looks like. Thank you for your warm words. I am very fortunate to have people like you to help me out.

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Originally Posted by arke95

Yes, I did use tape but I also made sure there is no way for the snake to get in contact with it.

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Personally, I still wouldn't risk it. There's actually a sticky on here that applies to this

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...48#post1412648

May be a small risk of the snake getting stuck on the tape, but it turns into zero risk without tape involved. That and every time I think there's no way one of my snakes can reach something that may be harmful they always figure out a way to do it anyway :P

Mine gets active when its close to feeding time. He will come out and cruise around looking at me like he is waiting. Other than that the only time I see him is when he is loafing back and forth from warm hide to cool hide.