How active are Ball Pythons?

[arke95]

Mine just stuck his head out looked around and went back in hehe

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Nvm its coming out from the other side now lol

[onthefritz]

I think the level of activity depends on the individual snake. I have two. One comes out every night around 10-10:30. The other is much more reclusive and quick to hide if you enter the room with her.

If you don't have your UTH to create a hot spot yet, this could be why your guy isn't eating just yet. Hot spots need to be around 90-92 degrees to help the snake digest its food properly. Make sure your thermostat is working properly too as the UTH can well exceed 100 degrees if unregulated. Also, it would be good to purchase a temp gun at some point so that you can measure your hot spots in the tank to be sure that they are correct. Lowes was having a sale on theirs last week for $20. Its a handy tool to keep!

Congrats on your new snaby!

[Sauzo]

If you are looking for an active snake, ball python was not the best choice. They don't move when happy. Something more active would be a boa or corn snake. My red tail boa is a lot more active than my BP but she's still a snake so they aren't gonna run around like a dog or hamster or gerbil.

[yellowbelly76]

It weights 74g.
Here are pictures of my tank. Don't mind the quality of the pictures, the lighting in my room is not good for pictures hehe.

RIGHT SIDE VIEW


FRONT VIEW


LEFT SIDE VIEW

I'm kind of surprised that someone else didn't comment on this. From the last 2 pictures, it looks like you are using those dial-type thermometer and hygrometer. Those things are not reliable, and you could be getting inaccurate temp and humidity readings. Get yourself a good digital thermometer/hygrometer combination. Put the probe on the bottom glass, just over the UTH. Put the unit itself on the other side, to keep an eye on the temp and humidity on that side. The one that I always see recommended, and that I use myself, is http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aaron

[SRMD]

I'm kind of surprised that someone else didn't comment on this. From the last 2 pictures, it looks like you are using those dial-type thermometer and hygrometer. Those things are not reliable, and you could be getting inaccurate temp and humidity readings. Get yourself a good digital thermometer/hygrometer combination. Put the probe on the bottom glass, just over the UTH. Put the unit itself on the other side, to keep an eye on the temp and humidity on that side. The one that I always see recommended, and that I use myself, is http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aaron

It has been mentioned in another of Arkes threads

[LivingwithBalls]

I use both a digital and analog thermometer.


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[Vypyrz]

I would like to address a possible cause of your snake not eating. Most breeders start their hatchlings out on live prey. As I understand it, store like Petco and PetSmart only offer frozen/thawed. A lot of snakes don't readily convert over, and it takes time, patience, and technique, to get them to convert. I would suggest offering an appropriately sized live mouse hopper, or rat pup. If your snake eats, then continue with live prey, until they are established, then attempt to convert them to f/t.

[Gio]

If you are looking for an active snake, ball python was not the best choice. They don't move when happy. Something more active would be a boa or corn snake. My red tail boa is a lot more active than my BP but she's still a snake so they aren't gonna run around like a dog or hamster or gerbil.

This is actually a good thread. I like threads like this because there is usually a natural progression in learning and interest in snakes once folks get their first animal.

I too started with a royal python when we purchased one for my son's 9th birthday 3 years ago.

I actually went from disinterested in snakes to full on fanatic about the biology of various species, mostly boas and pythons, but I'm fascinated by the colubrids as well.

Your royal, as said will not be very active in general. They, like most boas and pythons are nocturnal and forage less than other species of boas and pythons. Look at the body shape, thickset, stubby tailed and purely terrestrial in nature though some will, climb, semi arboreal isn't a category they'd be in.

They usually inhabit rodent burrows and either eat the rodents that are there, or ambush the ones that are walking by the area.

They are not very active, and shy by nature. their natural defense is to BALL up. Unlike some of the more active members of the 2 species that will throw out an awesome threat display and launch long, opened mouth strikes.

This is a rather in-depth topic, and there is a lot of of info, about how, and why they are how they are, but putting it simply, they are pretty inactive. However, an inactive royal, that is feeding, drinking, shedding and growing is a happy snake.

Ours does come out at night, and at certain times of the year is quite busy at night.

By comparison, my boa constrictor moves about, NEVER refuses a meal, climbs, perches in his cage, and displays a curious nature when out of the enclosure.

Of the 3, the coastal carpet python is the most often seen out and about. She is pretty fast, rarely utilizes a hide, is 60% up in her perches, and seems to tolerate handling well after the initial defensive behavior is done.

Now, ask a king snake, corn snake or any diurnal colubrid owner what they think about boas and pythons and you may find the term "active" quite relative depending on the specific species.

Long post, here for you, but the short answer is NO royals are not active, and if you want an active snake, you may want to look at something different.

[nightrainfalls]

There have been some great answers on this thread. Please let me help you a little bit with husbandry. I think you are clearly very dedicated to your snake, your cage is beautiful, but you have made a few rooky mistakes that you can easily fix.

1. You got a snake before you had the tank set up and running perfectly. You should have had the UTH in place before putting the snake in. I run a tank for a few days before I move a snake in, to make sure everything is good. That said, your tank is beautiful and has plenty of hides. Contrary to earlier advice, a large tank is fine as long as there are plenty of hides.

2. Substrate, what is it? It looks like pine mulch. If it is, it should not be. Make sure you have a snake friendly mulch. Aspen or cypress are alright. Keep in mind that mulches are harder to clean than paper substrates.

3. Screen top glass aquarium. I wish pet shops would stop selling these for snakes. You are loosing heat and humidity through the top. Block as much of that off as possible. You need a restricted air flow. Your dial humidity sensor seems to read below 50%. That is too low. I shoot for 50%-65% with a small high humidity hide at 75% to 90%. A wet sponge will keep a small hide humid. Your snake will use a humid spot before shed.

4. I did not see a water dish. You need a large one. BP's drink a lot. A large water dish helps with humidity.

5. You are feeding too soon. Your snake has just been through a terrible trauma. I don't feed for at least a week. When I do feed I make sure the mouse is thoroughly thawed and then I use hot water (150 degrees f) to get the mouse to ~100 degrees. I use a laser thermometer to make sure the temp is good. I also try not to handle the snake during the first two weeks.

6. The white lights are fine during the day. You should use a timer to maintain a 12 hours on off cycle. Use a ceramic heat lamp at night.

7. Find a vet boarded in exotics right away. I try to get the first stool checked for parasites and the snake to the vet within the first month for an exam. I have found that pet shop snakes can have worms and mites.

Please keep us posted on your progress. Best of luck.

David

[arke95]

Thank you all for your advice. That really taught me a lot.
David:
The substrate is cypress; Most of the screen top is covered with paper; As you said the humidity sensor I have sucks. I've noticed myself and I already ordered digital thermometer and hygrometer. They should come in by tomorrow; I do have a water dish it's just transparent; Also I change the bulbs: bright during the day, and red for the night. I try sticking to the 12/12 cycle.
Thank you for your concern. I know you guys are just looking out for me. I admit I'm a noobie, make some mistakes, but I want the best for my python and thank to you guys I keep on learning.