Male Pastel Sugar price?

I would like to know for how much male Pastel Sugars go for? This is the exact one...
Thanks in advance :)http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...0950e263a4.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14...4e7e43acd4.jpg

The back end looks kind of deflated - what is it eating or hasn't it started yet?

So are you selling the one that you said you bought 4 days ago, or do you not actually own the one you said you bought 4 days ago?

:confusd:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-Calico-pastel

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Originally Posted by dr del

The back end looks kind of deflated - what is it eating or hasn't it started yet?

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Yeah it currently does not want to eat, ive tried everything but no results :(

I will probably assist feed him tomorrow a rat pinkie :)

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

So are you selling the one that you said you bought 4 days ago, or do you not actually own the one you said you bought 4 days ago?

:confusd:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-Calico-pastel

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Iam not selling it, i bought it a week ago and just want to know if i got a good deal or not :)

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Originally Posted by Alan664

Yeah it currently does not want to eat, ive tried everything but no results :(

I will probably assist feed him tomorrow a rat pinkie :)

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When is the last time that it had a meal? There are A LOT of things to try before putting them through the stress of an assist feed.

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

When is the last time that it had a meal? There are A LOT of things to try before putting them through the stress of an assist feed.

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I bought it from lllreptiles but the guy couldn't answer my questions since the snake arrived the same day it was sold.
The snake is really skinny but looks healthy, i've checked most sick symptoms.

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Originally Posted by Alan664

The snake is really skinny but looks healthy, i've checked most sick symptoms.

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Really skinny =/= looks healthy. What have you tried feeding him?

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Really skinny =/= looks healthy. What have you tried feeding him?

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Live mice pinkie and live mice hopper and rat pinkie

When did you get him and when did you offer food? What is your set-up like (temps, humidity, hides, substrate, everything)?

Have you tried frozen or pre killed?

Based on the photo, it looks like it's in a glass tank. It's not impossible to raise and keep a healthy BP in a fish tank, but you MUST make modifications. If you haven't already, take a look at this thread and do whatever you can to match it. Otherwise, the stress created by the improper temps, humidity, and lack of security will continue to starve your snake.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-With-Pictures!

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Originally Posted by Alan664

I bought it from lllreptiles but the guy couldn't answer my questions since the snake arrived the same day it was sold.
The snake is really skinny but looks healthy, i've checked most sick symptoms.

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How long have you had the snake?

In answer to the original question, about $1000.

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Originally Posted by DennisM

In answer to the original question, about $1000.

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If that's the case, I have a snake or ten to sell you.

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

When did you get him and when did you offer food? What is your set-up like (temps, humidity, hides, substrate, everything)?

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I got him like 1-2 weeks ago and offered food 5 days later after letting the snake get used to its new environment...the temp and humidity is fine, 1 hide, and substrate is cypress mulch

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Originally Posted by StoneyMc

Have you tried frozen or pre killed?

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Only pre-killed but not frozen

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Originally Posted by John1982

How long have you had the snake?

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About 1-2 weeks

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Originally Posted by Alan664

Only pre-killed but not frozen

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Did you dangle it in front of him or did you just toss it in with him?

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Originally Posted by StoneyMc

Did you dangle it in front of him or did you just toss it in with him?

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I dangle it first then just left the snake with the rat for like 10-15 min to see if he would eat it

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Originally Posted by Alan664

I dangle it first then just left the snake with the rat for like 10-15 min to see if he would eat it

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Is he showing any sign of shedding or starting to? Ex. Dull in color, cloudy or greyish eyes?

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Originally Posted by StoneyMc

Is he showing any sign of shedding or starting to? Ex. Dull in color, cloudy or greyish eyes?

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Not at all and no mites

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Originally Posted by Alan664

Not at all and no mites

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Fill a tubba wear bowl or something to where your snake could soak/submerge not completely full though with warm water not hot and put just enough mouthwash in it to give it a bluish green tint let him soak in it with a lid in it (with poked holes in the lid of course) for 15 to 20 minutes. This will expose some or any mites if he has any. I recently picked up a pinstripe little did I know he had em and my other 2 caught em so this step is an everyday thing in my house until my PAM (prevent a mite) comes in.

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Originally Posted by Alan664

I got him like 1-2 weeks ago and offered food 5 days later after letting the snake get used to its new environment...the temp and humidity is fine, 1 hide, and substrate is cypress mulch

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So in 2-9 days(depending on if you got him 1 or 2 weeks ago) you have tried everything and are ready to resort to assist feeding. Your habitat could use some minor tweaking but I'll tell you now, over offering to an already shy feeder will only compound the issue. I wait 5-7 days between feeding attempts when I'm trying to figure out a snake's preference. Switch to a smaller, tighter fitting hide(you can just pack some newspaper or sphagnum moss in the larger one if you like) and wait 1 week then drop a hopper mouse in the enclosure. If he doesn't take that, wait another week before your next offer. He's a bit thin but not anywhere near where I'd consider assisting. I would take at least several weeks of offering different food types before resorting to an assisted feed. The reason larger enclosures can be a pain to get picky eaters feeding is many want to strike from the security of their hide; the larger the enclosure, the easier it will be for the prey to avoid the snake altogether.

Here are the food types I'd offer in chronological order, all offered after dark:
week 1) live hopper mouse - if your set up is indeed on point these are seldom refused
week 2) live pinky rat - set in front of the hide and leave overnight
week 3) frozen/thawed mouse - set it in front of the hide and leave overnight
week 4) f/t rat fuzzy - set in front of hide and leave overnight

For some super shy feeders the hopper's movements are too much. Some prefer a little movement so a pinky is used for that and bonus if they take it since it's a rat. Some prefer even less action so the frozen/thawed are offered last and notice I'm offering a different prey species each week. If the snake shies from the first mouse you are giving him 2 weeks before offering another.

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Originally Posted by John1982

So in 2-9 days(depending on if you got him 1 or 2 weeks ago) you have tried everything and are ready to resort to assist feeding. Your habitat could use some minor tweaking but I'll tell you now, over offering to an already shy feeder will only compound the issue. I wait 5-7 days between feeding attempts when I'm trying to figure out a snake's preference. Switch to a smaller, tighter fitting hide(you can just pack some newspaper or sphagnum moss in the larger one if you like) and wait 1 week then drop a hopper mouse in the enclosure. If he doesn't take that, wait another week before your next offer. He's a bit thin but not anywhere near where I'd consider assisting. I would take at least several weeks of offering different food types before resorting to an assisted feed. The reason larger enclosures can be a pain to get picky eaters feeding is many want to strike from the security of their hide; the larger the enclosure, the easier it will be for the prey to avoid the snake altogether.

Here are the food types I'd offer in chronological order, all offered after dark:
week 1) live hopper mouse - if your set up is indeed on point these are seldom refused
week 2) live pinky rat - set in front of the hide and leave overnight
week 3) frozen/thawed mouse - set it in front of the hide and leave overnight
week 4) f/t rat fuzzy - set in front of hide and leave overnight

For some super shy feeders the hopper's movements are too much. Some prefer a little movement so a pinky is used for that and bonus if they take it since it's a rat. Some prefer even less action so the frozen/thawed are offered last and notice I'm offering a different prey species each week. If the snake shies from the first mouse you are giving him 2 weeks before offering another.

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Thanks for the info i will for sure try that, i already have provent a mite and reptile spray but i did not want to use it since i could not see any mites

Johns response is pretty much spot on! So if they shipped you this snake before adjusting it there on site then it's dependent on the breeder to make sure it ate before shipping it out. Knowing my fellow humans' nature I'd assume that it was probably fed a minimal number of times before shipping so probably once... I would really focus on making him relaxed. Do your research and apply it. Besides offering food every 2-7 days I wouldn't disturb him at all. That's just what I'd do, not necessarily the best way to do things. As far as mites, I've only had it happen once but I looked in the fold of skin under the jaw and I heard from reading online that it's the best place to look at first for a quick and easy inspection.