Concerned about my ball python

Got my baby ball python jan 31st first time owning a snake and all I've been doing latley is worrying about it. Right now the thermometer reads 88 there's also a under tank heater and a bowl with water and a hide. I've done a lot lf reading but my concern is with it's feeding it hasn't eaten since I've got him and I don't know when he was last fed. I offered it a pinky but it didn't seem at all interested in it, I know snakes can go a while without eating but it looks rather thin. There's kinda a fold of skin that runs along the side length of the snake. I haven't tired feeding it again because he is in shed but I hate worrying about him dying! He moves about a few times a day and seems strange to me that he enjoys laying out in the open over his hide unless the under tank heater which sits under his hide is too hot. I find myself knocking on the glass or making sure it's still breathing. Just a bit ago I knocked on the glass and got no response, I know knocking on the glass isn't good as it might stress it out but I can't help but want to make sure it's alive. I picked it up and it became active so I'm not sure if it might have just been sleeping. I've done a lot of reading and had his enclosure set up before I got him but the fact that he hasn't eaten since I've gotten him and looks a bit on the thin side worries me too much. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Can you roughly give me an estimate on how large and old he is? Pictures of your setup would help greatly.

If I'm reading what you're saying correctly it basically hasn't eaten in almost a year? At that point I would really be concerned. Do you have any local hobbyists near you or a breeder? I have several recommendations for things to try but I'm not sure how much experience you have so I don't want you to try something and risk hurting the snake. At this point though something needs to be done.

I meant dec 31 not january** I've only had him for a few days I'm not sure how old he is exactly but he is about 23'. I got him from LLLreptiles I will take some pics of his enclosure in the morning it's 12:46 am here and work at 5 am. Just can't sleep due to worrying. I don't have much experience with snakes this is my first snake. I've had an iguana for 2 years but snakes are very different.

Yea, you're fine then if you meant Dec. I wouldn't worry right now, just make sure your setup is correct and you'll be fine.

Take some pictures of everything and post them. I'm currently at work so nothing will load but I will check on this post when I get home.

Alright I'll take some pictures and post them as soon as I'm off work. I know snakes can be very inactive I would just feel better knowing that it had eaten something, and I'm not sure if the wrinkles on it are due to it shedding.

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Originally Posted by Alx

Alright I'll take some pictures and post them as soon as I'm off work. I know snakes can be very inactive I would just feel better knowing that it had eaten something, and I'm not sure if the wrinkles on it are due to it shedding.

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Not only that, but if you have any questions you should always be able to phone LLLreptile and ask. Part of customer service is even after the sale. I help people always, even if I sell to them or not. I honestly just care about animals. I've flat out refused the sale of animals to people who I didn't think were going to make good pet owners. As long as I'm doing the selling I'm going to make sure that all the animals are going to good homes. I'm a firm believer that since I've either owned the animal at some point or brought that snake into this world that it's my duty to make sure it's provided for since if not it can't provide for itself in captivity.

First of all, what are your temps on the hot side and cool side of the tank? How are you controlling your under tank heater? Also, how are you measuring your temps?

If you just got your snake, leave him alone for at least a week to get used to his new environment. Definitely DON'T tap on the tank because you're stressing him out. As long as the temperatures and humidity are fine he's going to be ok and won't die so stop worrying.

Try feeding him next week and see what happens. I'm sure if you contact LllReptile they'll tell you when and what they feed him.

What kind of enclosure do you keep him in? I'll post a link of how to properly set up a glass terrarium (pretty sure that's what you have him in).

Check out these links please.

How to setup a glass tank:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?t=201740

Ball Python Care Sheet:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?t=127203

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Since you've had this snake less than a week, you have no reason to be concerned. Give it a week to settle in, and then you can start thinking of feeding. It may take a couple weeks for it to really start feeling comfortable.

And if you are concerned, call LLL Reptile and talk to them. They are VERY helpful. I've been to their Oceanside and Menifee stores, and have been very pleased with their customer service (though I haven't bought reptiles from them, they've been very helpful with any questions I had or helping me find the feed or supplies I need).

Yes definitely let him settle in for a week, don't tap on the glass. First pinkies are way too small for a baby bp. Mouse hoppers or rat pups are what you want. I would call LLL reptiles and ask what it was eating. And if it was frozen thawed or live.
If your under the tank heater is not controlled that could be why he's on top of the hide, it may be too hot

Ok here are some pics of the enclosure for my ball python. The thermostat I have is hooked up to both lamps and to the under tank heater and set to 90 degrees. The reason I am concerned and got worried is because of the folds on its skin that make it look rather thin. the temp right now reads 90 and the thermostat just switched the heating off and the humidity read 40. any tips or advice and how to better it's enclosure would be appreciated. And I will contact llreptiles to see what he was eating and when he last ate. Another question. Is there a better way heat the tank better without using so many things I have a small undertank heater that sits under its hide. a ceramic heat immiter that I leave on at night that is 100 watts and a 70 what day light on the colder side of the cage (with it being winter it gets cold in the mornings and sometimes throughout the day. Also I randomly hear a sort of click noise that comes from the tank is it coming from my snake? it almost sounds like when my iguana snalts if anyone is familiar with that kinda like a sneeze idk how to describe it. [



[IMG]http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...wnload-11.jpeg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...wnload-15.jpeg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...nload-4-2.jpeg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...nload-5-1.jpeg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...nload-5-1.jpeg[/IMG]

Ok first off you can't run multiple appliances off of one thermostat. With your setup I would have the thermostat controlling just the UTH. The thermostat probe needs to go outside the tank between the UTH and the bottom of the tank. Use an IR thermometer, or one with a probe, to measure the surface temperature on the glass, and set the thermostat so the glass surface temperature is about 90*F. You may have to thin the aspen under the hot hide a bit so your ball python has access to it.

Second, ditch one of the lights. Ball pythons primarily live underground in termite mounds and hunt at night, they don't need bright light. Put a heat lamp in the other fixture if you need to raise the ambient temperature.

Cover the top of the tank, leaving space for the heat lamp, with something like foil or Glad Press N Seal to help keep humidity in the tank.

If you have problems keeping the humidity up you can switch from aspen to cypress mulch during the winter. Cypress retains and releases more moisture without getting moldy than aspen does.

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Originally Posted by bcr229

Ok first off you can't run multiple appliances off of one thermostat. With your setup I would have the thermostat controlling just the UTH. The thermostat probe needs to go outside the tank between the UTH and the bottom of the tank. Use an IR thermometer, or one with a probe, to measure the surface temperature on the glass, and set the thermostat so the glass surface temperature is about 90*F. You may have to thin the aspen under the hot hide a bit so your ball python has access to it.

Second, ditch one of the lights. Ball pythons primarily live underground in termite mounds and hunt at night, they don't need bright light. Put a heat lamp in the other fixture if you need to raise the ambient temperature.

Cover the top of the tank, leaving space for the heat lamp, with something like foil or Glad Press N Seal to help keep humidity in the tank.

If you have problems keeping the humidity up you can switch from aspen to cypress mulch during the winter. Cypress retains and releases more moisture without getting moldy than aspen does.

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Why can't you run multiple appliances off one thermostat? The one she uses has 2 plugs & says that you can run 2 things. I have the same one. I only use it for the UTH and my red heat lamp is on a dimmer, but I'm just curious since it says you can run 2 things.



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Originally Posted by Alx

Ok here are some pics of the enclosure for my ball python. The thermostat I have is hooked up to both lamps and to the under tank heater and set to 90 degrees. The reason I am concerned and got worried is because of the folds on its skin that make it look rather thin. the temp right now reads 90 and the thermostat just switched the heating off and the humidity read 40. any tips or advice and how to better it's enclosure would be appreciated. And I will contact llreptiles to see what he was eating and when he last ate. Another question. Is there a better way heat the tank better without using so many things I have a small undertank heater that sits under its hide. a ceramic heat immiter that I leave on at night that is 100 watts and a 70 what day light on the colder side of the cage (with it being winter it gets cold in the mornings and sometimes throughout the day. Also I randomly hear a sort of click noise that comes from the tank is it coming from my snake? it almost sounds like when my iguana snalts if anyone is familiar with that kinda like a sneeze idk how to describe it. [



[IMG]http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...wnload-11.jpeg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...wnload-15.jpeg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...nload-4-2.jpeg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...nload-5-1.jpeg[/IMG][IMG]http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...nload-5-1.jpeg[/IMG]

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I'm by no means even close to an expert here, but to me, the "wrinkled" area looks like it's because he has been underfed.



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Originally Posted by thejenius77

Why can't you run multiple appliances off one thermostat? The one she uses has 2 plugs & says that you can run 2 things. I have the same one. I only use it for the UTH and my red heat lamp is on a dimmer, but I'm just curious since it says you can run 2 things.

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I should have clarified - you can have multiple appliances if they are exactly the same, such as heat tape on a rack. A heat lamp and UTH should have their own controllers.

Also I have that t-stat, it's an on/off switch type, not a proportional where it adjusts the amount of power. So while fine for a UTH, the OP will see the lights turn off and on all the time as the t-stat works, which would be annoying (to me anyway).

I understand your worry sweetie.

Yes the baby is a little thin, but I've seen much worse.

The aquarium is going to be a little bit of work to get it tweaked correctly for the baby, but it is completely doable. I am not sure if the two lamps up above are for heat, or light, or both. It is true ball pythons don't need a lot of light. They aren't like lizards and some other species of snake. That much light is almost certainly part of the stress factor. If you use them for heat, it would be better for the baby if you used a ceramic heat emitter, CHE. These put off heat but no light. For the most part, ambient room light is fine for ball pythons.

If you cover part of the screen top with plexiglas that will help hold in the humidity and will make that a little easier to keep where it need to be. You can also make or invest in a humid hide. If you cover the back and both ends of the tank with black construction paper, it will go a long way towards making the baby feel more secure and help reduce stress.

You've only had the baby a short time, and especially if it was shipped to you, it will take a little time for it to relax and get comfortable enough to be hungry. Pinky anything, rat or mouse, is much too small for him/her. You should try a young adult mouse, just past the crazy hopper stage, or a similar sized rat. You want the prey to be just a little bit bigger around than the baby is. Or at least the size of your thumb, not including the tail, to start with.

The great thing about the CHE, they fit in the same fixture as your lights, so you can buy just the emitter and save money. A small one should be in the neighborhood of $12-$15 I think. Unless the room he is in gets quite cold, one should be enough in combination with your UTH.

Change these few things and give the baby a few days after the changes are made and try again.

Gale

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Originally Posted by angllady2

I understand your worry sweetie.

Yes the baby is a little thin, but I've seen much worse.

The aquarium is going to be a little bit of work to get it tweaked correctly for the baby, but it is completely doable. I am not sure if the two lamps up above are for heat, or light, or both. It is true ball pythons don't need a lot of light. They aren't like lizards and some other species of snake. That much light is almost certainly part of the stress factor. If you use them for heat, it would be better for the baby if you used a ceramic heat emitter, CHE. These put off heat but no light. For the most part, ambient room light is fine for ball pythons.

If you cover part of the screen top with plexiglas that will help hold in the humidity and will make that a little easier to keep where it need to be. You can also make or invest in a humid hide. If you cover the back and both ends of the tank with black construction paper, it will go a long way towards making the baby feel more secure and help reduce stress.

You've only had the baby a short time, and especially if it was shipped to you, it will take a little time for it to relax and get comfortable enough to be hungry. Pinky anything, rat or mouse, is much too small for him/her. You should try a young adult mouse, just past the crazy hopper stage, or a similar sized rat. You want the prey to be just a little bit bigger around than the baby is. Or at least the size of your thumb, not including the tail, to start with.

The great thing about the CHE, they fit in the same fixture as your lights, so you can buy just the emitter and save money. A small one should be in the neighborhood of $12-$15 I think. Unless the room he is in gets quite cold, one should be enough in combination with your UTH.

Change these few things and give the baby a few days after the changes are made and try again.

Gale

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What she said ^^^^

Stop worrying and all will be fine, all comments are helpfull and your bp will be happy and healthy in no time, one thing though is that for a tank that big for a baby bp will need more cover cause they get stressed out if they dont have sufficient security, a hide on both sides (assuming you have a hot and a cold side is preferable so they dont have to sacrifice thermoregularity for good security

I think your snake is rather thin and I would be worried. Looks like it has not been eating properly for quite a while. How much he weights? Pinkies are definitely too small for him.

Your setup seems quite large and there is very much light. Put some more cover in there and cut down the lights if you can. Wait for the shed to complete and the offer a well heated f/t mice sized about 10% of his bodyweight and see what happens. And let us know :)

Thanks for all the replies and advice everyone! I will try to get back to everyone's questions as best as I can and have a few questions myself. My snakes been doing ok been leaving him alone checking on him occasionally to make sure it's breathing (sorry can't help it when he looks so thin and doesn't move much). First questions is about the thermostat, is it really bad to have multiple things plugged into it? Both things control the same side of the tank the probe sits next to the hide whith the undertank heater being under the hide and the 100 watt Ceramic heat emitter sits above the hide. And I read from one reply that the thermostat probe should go outside the tank between the under tank heater and the tank? That would fit very awkwardly becuase the probe is around half and inch thick and I think that would also reduce the effectiveness of the under tank heater? I am using one ceramic heat emmiter that I leave on 24/7 connected to the thermostat, I was using a second 70watt bulb as means to heat the other side of the tank because it's been rather cold especially in the mornings. I tired using foil over the tank with holes for the heat lamps but it didn't seem to help the humidity. I was doing some reading and youtube-ing and saw a few people say to cover part of the tank with a moist/wet towel? Would this help raise the humidity? I've also been spraying the tank occasionally to raise the humidity but will this cause mold? And yes I will be purchasing at least one more hide and decorations to cover up the tank more and make him feel more secure just need to wait till I get paid, I've spent quite a lot of money the thermostat was 50$ along with all the other expenses+ Christmas and bills. So I'll be making adding to his enclosure soon. CHE for 15? From a hardware store? They are 25$ at petsmart or petco depending on the wattage. It has been a bit cold especially in the mornings which is why I was using both bulbs it was hard to keep the temps up. I'm going to look around the house to see what I could use for more hides/coverage. And I went for pinkies because I had never fed a snake before and I just wanted it to have eaten something but once I brought the pinkies home they were def too tiny. Just waiting for it's shed to finish before offering it another feeding. Just hope it's not starving. I have the smallest UTH that basically just covers under the hide should I go for a bigger one that heats up around half the tank? And should the water bowl sit under a heat source? The water gets a bit warm idk if that's a bad thing. Thank you again to everyone for your replies hoping my snake does fine I feel I won't stop being a little worried until his first feeding is done with lol. Sorry this isn't split into paragraphs kinds of just wanted to get back to you guys. If anyone has any ideas for names feel few to throw them out as I can't find a name that I like for him he's a vanilla pastel with yellow coloring the pics of him here dont show his true coloring because he is pale in color from shedding. Thank you everyone!

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Originally Posted by Alx

Thanks for all the replies and advice everyone! I will try to get back to everyone's questions as best as I can and have a few questions myself. My snakes been doing ok been leaving him alone checking on him occasionally to make sure it's breathing (sorry can't help it when he looks so thin and doesn't move much). First questions is about the thermostat, is it really bad to have multiple things plugged into it? Both things control the same side of the tank the probe sits next to the hide whith the undertank heater being under the hide and the 100 watt Ceramic heat emitter sits above the hide. And I read from one reply that the thermostat probe should go outside the tank between the under tank heater and the tank? That would fit very awkwardly becuase the probe is around half and inch thick and I think that would also reduce the effectiveness of the under tank heater? I am using one ceramic heat emmiter that I leave on 24/7 connected to the thermostat, I was using a second 70watt bulb as means to heat the other side of the tank because it's been rather cold especially in the mornings. I tired using foil over the tank with holes for the heat lamps but it didn't seem to help the humidity. I was doing some reading and youtube-ing and saw a few people say to cover part of the tank with a moist/wet towel? Would this help raise the humidity? I've also been spraying the tank occasionally to raise the humidity but will this cause mold? And yes I will be purchasing at least one more hide and decorations to cover up the tank more and make him feel more secure just need to wait till I get paid, I've spent quite a lot of money the thermostat was 50$ along with all the other expenses+ Christmas and bills. So I'll be making adding to his enclosure soon. CHE for 15? From a hardware store? They are 25$ at petsmart or petco depending on the wattage. It has been a bit cold especially in the mornings which is why I was using both bulbs it was hard to keep the temps up. I'm going to look around the house to see what I could use for more hides/coverage. And I went for pinkies because I had never fed a snake before and I just wanted it to have eaten something but once I brought the pinkies home they were def too tiny. Just waiting for it's shed to finish before offering it another feeding. Just hope it's not starving. I have the smallest UTH that basically just covers under the hide should I go for a bigger one that heats up around half the tank? And should the water bowl sit under a heat source? The water gets a bit warm idk if that's a bad thing. Thank you again to everyone for your replies hoping my snake does fine I feel I won't stop being a little worried until his first feeding is done with lol. Sorry this isn't split into paragraphs kinds of just wanted to get back to you guys. If anyone has any ideas for names feel few to throw them out as I can't find a name that I like for him he's a vanilla pastel with yellow coloring the pics of him here dont show his true coloring because he is pale in color from shedding. Thank you everyone!

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I use the same thermostat as you. I have my probe taped to the UTH with FOIL tape. I had to do it that way because I had my UTH in place before I knew that I needed a thermostat. I put the tape on the cords all the way up to the bottom of the probe & a small strip across the tip of the probe to keep it snug to the UTH.

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Originally Posted by thejenius77

I use the same thermostat as you. I have my probe taped to the UTH with FOIL tape. I had to do it that way because I had my UTH in place before I knew that I needed a thermostat. I put the tape on the cords all the way up to the bottom of the probe & a small strip across the tip of the probe to keep it snug to the UTH.

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Ok I can see that, but putting it between the tank and the UTH, wouldn't it create a small area where the UTH doesn't heat the tank because the the probe is in the way? I'm using a small UTH atm that only covers a little more space than the hide so I would feel the probe would be in the way. At the time I bought the UTH I read it should go under the hot side hide so I only bought a small one. Should I get a bigger one? And stick the probe to the UTH? But then how would I control heat lamp? Or is an under tank heater enough for heat?

I would use foil tape and attach it to the bottom of the UTH. So it would go: glass, UTH, probe. Then have the THERMOMETER probe INSIDE, centered right over UTH

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by thejenius77

I would use foil tape and attach it to the bottom of the UTH. So it would go: glass, UTH, probe. Then have the THERMOMETER probe INSIDE, centered right over UTH

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I think I will do that! Just need to get rid of this plastic thermometer/hydrometer and get a digital one with a probe. Any good places where I could find a digital thermometer/hydrometer with a probe?

Acurite from Wal-Mart

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Grab some dark construction paper and cover up the back and side walls of the aquarium so it feels less 'open'. It has helped me in the past with feeding, also try 1 live pup just to get her going then you can worry about switching to f/t later.


Good luck

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Okay, as best I can follow along with your post, you seem to be doing the best you can, so that is good hon.

It is entirely possible that CHE are more expensive where you are than where I am. I can get the smallest one from my petco for $15. But yes, they go up quickly from there. If you are having a lot of trouble with the room getting cold, would a small space heater be an option for you? I know you can purchase a basic tabletop model from Wal-Mart for around $20. I use one in my snake room, believe it or not, as small as it is, it warms the entire room as long as the door is closed. It's been so bitterly cold here I leave it on pretty much all the time.

Damp towels can help with humidity, but they mildew very easily. I think if it were me, I'd just make or invest in a humid hide. These can be a simple as a cheap plastic cereal bowl turned upside down with a small door cut in the side, and filled with damp sphagnum moss. The baby will use it as he needs it. You will just mist the moss as needed to keep it damp but not dripping, and it will stay fresh for a long time.

You can certainly plug more than one thing into your thermostat, although if heat is a real problem for you and you have no other options right now, consider leaving the CHE on all the time, centered in the middle of the lid if possible. Just take it off the thermostat and plug it directly into the outlet. Having the water dish on the warm side is fine, as long as you keep it scrupulously clean. It will get bacteria buildup really quickly being warm all the time. Been there, done that.

I know the not feeding thing is really nerve racking, but these little guys can go a surprisingly long time without eating. I am quite certain that given a little time to settle in and with a few cage tweaks, the baby will start eating before you know it. If you can get live prey, it is probably a good idea to give the baby live a few times to bring his weight up, then you can slowly switch back to f/t if you need to.

I wish you all the best.

Gale

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Originally Posted by angllady2

Okay, as best I can follow along with your post, you seem to be doing the best you can, so that is good hon.

It is entirely possible that CHE are more expensive where you are than where I am. I can get the smallest one from my petco for $15. But yes, they go up quickly from there. If you are having a lot of trouble with the room getting cold, would a small space heater be an option for you? I know you can purchase a basic tabletop model from Wal-Mart for around $20. I use one in my snake room, believe it or not, as small as it is, it warms the entire room as long as the door is closed. It's been so bitterly cold here I leave it on pretty much all the time.

Damp towels can help with humidity, but they mildew very easily. I think if it were me, I'd just make or invest in a humid hide. These can be a simple as a cheap plastic cereal bowl turned upside down with a small door cut in the side, and filled with damp sphagnum moss. The baby will use it as he needs it. You will just mist the moss as needed to keep it damp but not dripping, and it will stay fresh for a long time.

You can certainly plug more than one thing into your thermostat, although if heat is a real problem for you and you have no other options right now, consider leaving the CHE on all the time, centered in the middle of the lid if possible. Just take it off the thermostat and plug it directly into the outlet. Having the water dish on the warm side is fine, as long as you keep it scrupulously clean. It will get bacteria buildup really quickly being warm all the time. Been there, done that.

I know the not feeding thing is really nerve racking, but these little guys can go a surprisingly long time without eating. I am quite certain that given a little time to settle in and with a few cage tweaks, the baby will start eating before you know it. If you can get live prey, it is probably a good idea to give the baby live a few times to bring his weight up, then you can slowly switch back to f/t if you need to.

I wish you all the best.

Gale

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thank you I never thought about getting a small heater! That's actually a good idea, won't have to use the house heater. I'm using a wet towel at the moment seeing if it raises it but I'll look into a humid hide. I'm going to try feeding him tomorrow as his weight keeps me worried he looks very thin. I'll be making a new post with pictures I just took of how thin he is looking and some advice of what to try and feed him tomorrow. Thank you again everyone for the advice and help!

Hi guys!

A note from us - Can you please call us to let us know how the snake is doing? The wrinkled area pictured looks like it recently took quite a large dump, and with it being on aspen and under the lights, it could be just that it's dehydrated in the aftermath. I've seen this a time or two in my own animals at home, and even the short tailed pythons here at the breeding center look like someone just wrung them out after they pass a large bowel movement.

Please, please call us so we can make notes on your order (if it was shipped to you) or so that the store manager can be aware of your situation and help you out if you're a local customer. Locally, we know the environment and we know how best to set up your snake to accommodate the weather here in SoCal and keep your baby hydrated and healthy, so again... call us!! We can't help you if we don't know you're having problems.

As others mentioned, don't tap on the glass - snakes sleep very still, and that's totally normal. The snake pictured looks fine, if a little dehydrated, but that is easy to fix with a nice large waterbowl and some adjustments made to the setup. As others have also mentioned, a pinky is much too small for even a hatchling ball python - the babies we have for sale now are all feeding on live mice.

One more time...please call us! :) We need to hear from you to help you out.

-Jen

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Originally Posted by LLLReptile

Hi guys!

A note from us - Can you please call us to let us know how the snake is doing? The wrinkled area pictured looks like it recently took quite a large dump, and with it being on aspen and under the lights, it could be just that it's dehydrated in the aftermath. I've seen this a time or two in my own animals at home, and even the short tailed pythons here at the breeding center look like someone just wrung them out after they pass a large bowel movement.

Please, please call us so we can make notes on your order (if it was shipped to you) or so that the store manager can be aware of your situation and help you out if you're a local customer. Locally, we know the environment and we know how best to set up your snake to accommodate the weather here in SoCal and keep your baby hydrated and healthy, so again... call us!! We can't help you if we don't know you're having problems.

As others mentioned, don't tap on the glass - snakes sleep very still, and that's totally normal. The snake pictured looks fine, if a little dehydrated, but that is easy to fix with a nice large waterbowl and some adjustments made to the setup. As others have also mentioned, a pinky is much too small for even a hatchling ball python - the babies we have for sale now are all feeding on live mice.

One more time...please call us! :) We need to hear from you to help you out.

-Jen

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And THIS is why I keep bringing you guys my money!

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Originally Posted by LLLReptile

Hi guys!

A note from us - Can you please call us to let us know how the snake is doing? The wrinkled area pictured looks like it recently took quite a large dump, and with it being on aspen and under the lights, it could be just that it's dehydrated in the aftermath. I've seen this a time or two in my own animals at home, and even the short tailed pythons here at the breeding center look like someone just wrung them out after they pass a large bowel movement.

Please, please call us so we can make notes on your order (if it was shipped to you) or so that the store manager can be aware of your situation and help you out if you're a local customer. Locally, we know the environment and we know how best to set up your snake to accommodate the weather here in SoCal and keep your baby hydrated and healthy, so again... call us!! We can't help you if we don't know you're having problems.

As others mentioned, don't tap on the glass - snakes sleep very still, and that's totally normal. The snake pictured looks fine, if a little dehydrated, but that is easy to fix with a nice large waterbowl and some adjustments made to the setup. As others have also mentioned, a pinky is much too small for even a hatchling ball python - the babies we have for sale now are all feeding on live mice.

One more time...please call us! :) We need to hear from you to help you out.

-Jen

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thank you for reaching out, I turned to these forums for advice becuase I imagined long call times and being on hold as is with a lot of I customer service. But when I called it was rather quick so thank you! I have given him a soak and going to see how he progresses. Thank you again for reaching out and I will def call with any more questions. Hopefully he recovers and I can get some food in him.