Haven't been on in awhile, but my snake is still not eating.

The temps are right. They're controlled on the hot side at 90F-93F by the ZooMed Hygrotherm. Humidity is 70%. She has a reptile bonsai I got from Petsmart. A rock cave, a huge soaking/water dish with clean water. Clean Aspen bedding. A terrarium forest background. I used the foil top treatment on the tank. The heat source is a 150 watt infrared bulb. So, why won't she eat. Everything I have is in these pictures. However, I was told to use Fuzzy Mice, not Pinkies.

http://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...66t300x300.jpg http://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...22t300x300.jpg http://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...43t300x300.jpg http://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...81t300x300.jpg http://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...77t300x300.jpg http://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...30t300x300.jpghttp://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...87t300x300.jpghttp://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...46t300x300.jpghttp://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...63t300x300.jpghttp://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...05t300x300.jpghttp://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...08t300x300.jpghttp://pet.imageg.net/graphics/produ...80t300x300.jpg

Try live.

Pics of your actual setup?

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Originally Posted by Daybreaker

Try live.

Pics of your actual setup?

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No pics, only video. And this is a long video, but towards the end it has the tank view and everything. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEUEon1uOso

I have an older setup video, not much use due to there are many differences now.

At about 9:40 in this video it shows my setup.

I've had my little snake since November 23rd. She has not successfully eaten once.

Just took these. https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...80219785_n.jpghttps://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...30720142_n.jpghttps://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...89937946_n.jpghttps://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...54566350_n.jpghttps://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...32771779_n.jpg

If I heard you correctly in the video you said it is a 40 gallon setup. If you snake is just a hatchling, that is a huge space and that alone could be stressing her out a bit. I would try using a smaller set up. Maybe get a 10 gallon and work your way up.

I've heard this time and again. And so many people give mixed information, it's a tornado of "Don't listen to them, listen to me! THIS works! NO! This WAY!", etc. My snake has learned how to burrow. She has a reptile bonsai which she hides in. She likes to hide in the plants, in the tight corners of the humidity dishes that are in there, in her little cave, she has hides. If that was the issue, she'd be frantic. She's relaxed.

It's winter and she won't eat until spring. She truly isn't hungry. The Fuzzies are too big. Since I just got the temps cleared away to optimal, she hasn't adjusted. She won't eat dead. Or she's sick. Or any combination. Or none, could be none.

The mouse fuzzies are not too big. Try a live mouse fuzzy/hopper or rat fuzzy.

The enclosure is too big IMO. Put her in a small tub setup: something as small as a 6-15qt tub or as mentioned a 10 gallon tub. Put more fake plants or crumpled up newspaper in there to make her feel more secure. That's a big open space in there. I recommend two identical hides too, one for the hot and cold side.

What are your ambient temps reading?

I know that you Think your snake is secure, but it is pretty clear that she isn't. if she has spot on temps and isn't eating, it has to be an issue of stress or lack of security. That tank is probably why she isn't eating. What I would do to make her feel more secure is crumple up a bunch of newspaper and throw it in the tank. It may not be aesthetically pleasing, but it will help her feel safer. Also, if you are handling at all, stop until she eats at least a few meals. Lastly, i would "black out" or cover 3 sides of the tank, so that she cannot see out. These tricks have worked very well for me when I have had small BPs in big tanks.

Edit: Daybreaker beat me to it

Ambient? The room temperature is always 70F-72F. The infrared spans nearly the entire tank in the reach of it's light. I don't have a second thermometer, I had to exchange it just to pay for the Hygrotherm. I am not very well off financially. There is two hides, one for hot, one for cold.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tes95

Ambient? The room temperature is always 70F-72F. The infrared spans nearly the entire tank in the reach of it's light. I don't have a second thermometer, I had to exchange it just to pay for the Hygrotherm. I am not very well off financially. There is two hides, one for hot, one for cold.

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70-72 ambient temps in the cage may be why she doesn't want to eat: those are way too cold and could lead to an RI. I keep my ambient temps/cold side at ~79-80 and hot side hot spot at ~89-92.

Hides should be identical so she doesn't favor one over the other.

How often have you been offering food?

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Originally Posted by brobertson

I know that you Think your snake is secure, but it is pretty clear that she isn't. if she has spot on temps and isn't eating, it has to be an issue of stress or lack of security. That tank is probably why she isn't eating. What I would do to make her feel more secure is crumple up a bunch of newspaper and throw it in the tank. It may not be aesthetically pleasing, but it will help her feel safer. Also, if you are handling at all, stop until she eats at least a few meals. Lastly, i would "black out" or cover 3 sides of the tank, so that she cannot see out. These tricks have worked very well for me when I have had small BPs in big tanks.

Edit: Daybreaker beat me to it

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That actually makes sense to black out the sides. I have a terrarium forest background at the back, she always looks out the clear sides. Just put opaque towels over the two "side" (left and right) sides. I can attempt cluttering and more plants. Issue is what to put in there that doesn't look hideous. I'm sure my sister has some old toy flora, and we probably have some fake plants, are these okay?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tes95

I've heard this time and again. And so many people give mixed information, it's a tornado of "Don't listen to them, listen to me! THIS works! NO! This WAY!", etc. My snake has learned how to burrow. She has a reptile bonsai which she hides in. She likes to hide in the plants, in the tight corners of the humidity dishes that are in there, in her little cave, she has hides. If that was the issue, she'd be frantic. She's relaxed.

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Sounds like you got it all figured out so good luck with that.

Enough to where in a one month period I wasted 4 fuzzies. 5 yesterday. I have tried everything....
The probe isn't even directly under the light, it's at least half a foot away from the right side of the tank, and about 3 inches away from the light. And it's 91-93 degrees there. It stand to reason the bare minimum in that tank on cold side is about 77F. Cold side actually gives off a slight heat signature. If you guys want me to, I can attach a small 10 Gallon UTH I have to the cold side. I can use a surge protector for the hygrotherm to control that too.

- - - Updated - - -

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Originally Posted by rlditmars

Sounds like you got it all figured out so good luck with that.

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I meant no disrespect, I just truly can't see that as the issue because when I had it even MORE cluttered, I still had the same problem.

She started moving as soon as I blacked out the two sides. I don't have a second DIGITAL Thermohygrometer, just the Hygrotherm (which has one built in). However. I have an analog one.

1) Put her in something smaller, a 6-15qt tub or a 10 gallon tank
2) Clutter it up with fake plants, water bowl, and two small tight hides. Black out three sides if you go with the 10 gallon.
3) Bump those ambient temps up. 77 is still a bit too cool IMO
4) Leave her alone with no handling unless to spot clean and have her be in a low traffic area
5) After about a week of having her settle into her new setup, offer every 7 days with a LIVE feeder. If you get a live mouse fuzzy/rat fuzzy you can even leave it in with her overnight since it can't harm her

Those are my suggestions as to what I would do.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Daybreaker

70-72 ambient temps in the cage may be why she doesn't want to eat: those are way too cold and could lead to an RI. I keep my ambient temps/cold side at ~79-80 and hot side hot spot at ~89-92.

Hides should be identical so she doesn't favor one over the other.

How often have you been offering food?

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I mean, it stands to reason that if the right side of the tank (hot side) is always 90F-93F, and the infrared light is ranging far enough as to hit the cold side, it would be okay for her. I'm looking at it right now, the light has actually shone off her scales, it permeates most of the cold side.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...71388216_n.jpg

Sometimes I think she's a baby. Fully stretched out, she's larger than a 10 Gallon, and over 2/3rds of her 40 Gallon. She's 1 foot or over, but 2 feet MAX. I got her on November 23rd of this year. I honestly have no idea her age.

Black construction paper would look nice on those two sides. I bought the Flukers Repti-vines "Pothos" for my 20 gal. long. The vine package says 6 feet, but is actually 8 feet long! Plenty to wrap around the inside of the enclosure. $10. Looks awesome! Gotta fill the tank a little bit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tes95

Enough to where in a one month period I wasted 4 fuzzies. 5 yesterday. I have tried everything....
The probe isn't even directly under the light, it's at least half a foot away from the right side of the tank, and about 3 inches away from the light. And it's 91-93 degrees there. It stand to reason the bare minimum in that tank on cold side is about 77F. Cold side actually gives off a slight heat signature. If you guys want me to, I can attach a small 10 Gallon UTH I have to the cold side. I can use a surge protector for the hygrotherm to control that too.

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I meant no disrespect, I just truly can't see that as the issue because when I had it even MORE cluttered, I still had the same problem.

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I realize that you are probably frustrated. However, if what you have been doing hasn't worked, then continuing down that road is going to be a exercise in futility. Several have said they believe it is the size of the enclosure. I know you have a lot of money and effort into your setup, but try this and it should only cost you about $5 and a week or two of your time. Get a small 10 to 15 qt plastic tub with a lid. Put some holes in the sides for air transfer. Put the tub in your tank so you can still utilize your hot spot and ambient without any more cost. Make up the inside of the tub with substrate from the big tank, hides, and a small water dish. Give her a a solid week to settle without any handling unless she needs the tub cleaned. I assume you have been trying to feed her what the person you bought her from, was already feeding her. After a week try feeding her. If using FT then give her an hour to herself, but if she doesn't eat it take it out and wait another week. If you didn't know, you can refreeze a prey item once providing it hasn't sat out too long. That way you won't have to waste as much food.

It won't be as pretty as what you have, but if it works, then you know that the size of the enclosure is the issue and you can change things as your money situation makes it affordable. Remember, you can find alot of used items on Craigslist really cheap, like small tanks with a heat source already attached because someone got rid of their snake, lizard, reptile, whatever.

She is most definitely a hatchling, and hatchlings are started on fuzzy mice and move on to small adult mice by the time they are ready to be taken home as pets.

I highly recommend getting a smaller enclosure for at least a month or two until you get her feeding regularly. A young ball python like this can go a little while without food, but they will approach starvation much sooner than an adult snake.
You can get a 6quart or 15quart tub at target, walmart, home depot.. any store that has storage stuff, for about $5-$10. I am very confident that the reason she is not eating is a combination of your temps being off, too big of an enclosure, and feeding a prey item that is too small.

If you can move her to a small tub setup, get her temps to 80* on the cool side and 90* on the hot side, and leave her alone for an entire week, I am willing to bet she would take a live hopper mouse with no hesitation.

give it a try :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kaorte

She is most definitely a hatchling, and hatchlings are started on fuzzy mice and move on to small adult mice by the time they are ready to be taken home as pets.

I highly recommend getting a smaller enclosure for at least a month or two until you get her feeding regularly. A young ball python like this can go a little while without food, but they will approach starvation much sooner than an adult snake.
You can get a 6quart or 15quart tub at target, walmart, home depot.. any store that has storage stuff, for about $5-$10. I am very confident that the reason she is not eating is a combination of your temps being off, too big of an enclosure, and feeding a prey item that is too small.

If you can move her to a small tub setup, get her temps to 80* on the cool side and 90* on the hot side, and leave her alone for an entire week, I am willing to bet she would take a live hopper mouse with no hesitation.

give it a try :)

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*Sighs* I do have a dirty 10 gallon. It has clips to lock the top, and I have not done the foil treatment with it. You're suggesting I clean it, put in a water bowl, blanket the sides, move my hygrotherm and lamps, move my snake, move some substrate. And not bother her for a week. And then give her a live fuzzy. And this will make her eat?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kaorte

She is most definitely a hatchling, and hatchlings are started on fuzzy mice and move on to small adult mice by the time they are ready to be taken home as pets.

I highly recommend getting a smaller enclosure for at least a month or two until you get her feeding regularly. A young ball python like this can go a little while without food, but they will approach starvation much sooner than an adult snake.
You can get a 6quart or 15quart tub at target, walmart, home depot.. any store that has storage stuff, for about $5-$10. I am very confident that the reason she is not eating is a combination of your temps being off, too big of an enclosure, and feeding a prey item that is too small.

If you can move her to a small tub setup, get her temps to 80* on the cool side and 90* on the hot side, and leave her alone for an entire week, I am willing to bet she would take a live hopper mouse with no hesitation.

give it a try :)

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How soon until they starve. She's been with me since November 23rd and has not eaten.

Hey, you came here for help. You are obviously concerned for the little one, so why wouldn't you want to do everything you could to make her eat by herself? Maybe I am wrong, but it sounds a little like you are trying to avoid making any changes to your current setup as if they are a nuisance.

A ten gallon wouldn't be a bad idea. If you can, I would try and get some smaller hides too. maybe a small cardboard box (no tape) or a plastic bowl with an entrance cut out. I used to use plastic take out boxes for hides when I was in school and short on cash.

Try a live hopper (one step up from a fuzzy). I've seen babies completely disinterested in food simply because it was too small. If you are going to get a meal in her, better make it count.


There is no set number of days until an animal starves, but a month isn't going to hurt her. I'd say you'd be stepping into the danger zone somewhere after 2 months. I believe these changes will help her become a more confident feeder.


Do you offer food in or out of her enclosure?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kaorte

Hey, you came here for help. You are obviously concerned for the little one, so why wouldn't you want to do everything you could to make her eat by herself? Maybe I am wrong, but it sounds a little like you are trying to avoid making any changes to your current setup as if they are a nuisance.

A ten gallon wouldn't be a bad idea. If you can, I would try and get some smaller hides too. maybe a small cardboard box (no tape) or a plastic bowl with an entrance cut out. I used to use plastic take out boxes for hides when I was in school and short on cash.

Try a live hopper (one step up from a fuzzy). I've seen babies completely disinterested in food simply because it was too small. If you are going to get a meal in her, better make it count.


There is no set number of days until an animal starves, but a month isn't going to hurt her. I'd say you'd be stepping into the danger zone somewhere after 2 months. I believe these changes will help her become a more confident feeder.


Do you offer food in or out of her enclosure?

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No, it's just that I am sad I don't have money to make anyone happy, myself or my snake...

I've tried feeding her in and out.

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Originally Posted by Tes95

No, it's just that I am sad I don't have money to make anyone happy, myself or my snake...

I've tried feeding her in and out.

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Don't be sad, its sounds like you have all the resources you need to make some adjustments. Just some time and elbow grease ;) and a little more patience.

This is a very common experience for most new snake owners. I messed up my setup big time. Invested a couple hundred in a nice setup only to find I bought all the wrong things. Thankfully, the users on this site gave me some great advice and one of them even sent me some used equipment for a great price.

Don't give up, you haven't explored all your options just yet.