On fire or just stubborn?!? Hellllp :x

First off I want to say, I just found this forum not too long ago, it’s been so so helpful, thank all of you already!

I’ve had Khan for about a year now and I think he’s about 1.5 to 2yo, probably about 2.5/3 feet now.


I’m writing bc I’m a little stressed about him not eating. I know I know I know I’ve read online and it’s probably not a big deal… but here I am.


He was eating mice then small rats perfectly until about a month and a half ago. I noticed my cage (all wood custom with a slide front) was a little colder than usual so I put in a new ceramic heat bulb (again I know ceramic bulb isn’t ideal but the heat pads were not really working with the wood bottom. And I keep my humidity pretty good) 100watt (I was using a 75watt before), the cage is fairly big.
It’s warmer. BUT now he hasn’t eaten and I’m not sure if it’s a coincidence, if he’s just being stubborn OR is this poor guy too hot? Hellllpp? Do I bring the bulb back down? Or just stop stressing?


Warm side gets about 88-92, middle gets about 85, and the cool side 80-83. Also bc it’s a heat lamp there is a small resting area above the heat hide that gets about 95-100(it’s pretty high up). I mist morning and night so everything drops slightly for awhile then.


Any advice? Thanks again in advance!


xoxo,
KhansStressedOutDaddy

….. I tried to post some pics but can’t figure out how ::weirdface

For safety reasons, I'd try to get your temps. lowered just a couple degrees so the highest temps don't exceed 90*- some prefer 88* as a max. Snakes really do need the optional lower temps too, & 80-83* isn't much of a drop, so it would be best if you can lower the temps there too- just a couple degrees.

Remember that a snake's metabolism- & therefore weight loss- is based on the heat- for BPs, it's a fine line to walk, warm enough so they eat & digest well, & but cool enough so they don't burn it off too rapidly.

If his body weight is good, a month & a half isn't much of a fast, & it may or may not have resulted from his sensing the previous cooler temperatures. Some snakes do take the "hint" though when they sense temperature drops, but that ship has sailed, so other than tweaking the temps. you'll have to be patient- it goes with the species. ;)

BTW, :welcome:

As far as posting pics here most use Tapatalk app.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...-Post-Pictures

I would definitely lower that hot spot like Bogertophis said.

Otherwise... You may be having your first experience with a ball python's food strike. Males especially will do this. As long as his body weight stays good, there's no real reason to stress. Just cut back food offers to every 2 weeks or so maybe.
One of my males will fast every winter. The others are good so far so it really can depend on the snake.

Just keep an eye out for any other symptoms. As long as he seems fine and just uninterested, let him do his thing.

Thank you for the reply!

ok so the hottest hot part (on top of the hot hide) should be no hotter than 90 (that would make his hot hide around 85 probably) And that’s the hottest part of the whole cage. I’m going to try changing back to a 75watt bulb and see if that will keep it hot enough. As far as the cool side, it should ideally be at…. 80? 75? What should it NOT be, like too cold.

thanks again for taking the time! I know this is such a beginner problem :x but all answers are sooo so different.

annnnddd I’m still working on getting pictures in here still. I’m still not understanding that. …. But that is alllll on my part I’m sure x)

Changing bulbs to adjust temps sounds like you’re not using a thermostat. If that’s the case I would make that priority #1.


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Originally Posted by jmcrook

Changing bulbs to adjust temps sounds like you’re not using a thermostat. If that’s the case I would make that priority #1.

Hi.
I am not. How would I use that? That’s something I would plug the light I have now in? And it would automatically turn on and off?

ive been changing bulb wattages and watching the temps.
I have three zoomed thermometers throughout for visual and I use my radar heat gun a few times a day to double check accuracy.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by jmcrook

Changing bulbs to adjust temps sounds like you’re not using a thermostat. If that’s the case I would make that priority #1.


also, is this something I would find at petssmart? Or homedepot?

:x thank you thank you!

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Works just like the thermostat in your home. Set at desired temp and controls the heating element to stay at or near that set temperature. This is the single most important piece of husbandry equipment that any keeper should have.

Below are examples of thermostats in descending order from highest to lowest quality/reliability in my opinion. It’s worth it to shell out for the good equipment.

http://spyderrobotics.com
https://www.reptilebasics.com/thermostats
https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-Ger.../dp/B000NZZG3S


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Originally Posted by KhansDaddy

.... As far as the cool side, it should ideally be at…. 80? 75? What should it NOT be, like too cold...

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I'd aim for about 78* on the coolest side. Your snake is a young adult, so as already mentioned, this just may have more to do with that & not so much the temperatures, but do fix them anyway. ;)

PLEASE make sure you regulate the temps. for safety as well as his appetite.

And I agree, if your snake is refusing food, I'd also lengthen the time between offerings, from a week to 2 weeks, & potentially even longer- because offering too often just stresses them anyway, & can make them LESS likely to eat.

Understand that with snakes, especially BPs- food refusals "happen", & remember they often fast in the wild, according to the seasons & their needs. As creatures that eat multiple times a day, it tends to worry us until we get used to the idea that snakes are just designed to fast at times. Sometimes it's just what they do. :snake: