Building new cage! follow my progress

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Originally Posted by zombie&lemons

from experience if your gonna stain it, don't i repeat don't use screws

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Screws are fine if you know how to work with them. You just gotta countersink the hole a little, fill it with a little wood glue or matching wood putty after you put the screw in, and sand over top of it until it gets filled in with the wood dust. Let it dry, stain it, you'll never be able to tell.

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Originally Posted by zombie&lemons

keep me updated on you build. wish i could help ya cause i love building stuff ... but i got my work cut out for me right now. im almost done building a box for 4 2500watt a piece subwoofers so this box is 48.5"long x 35" deep x 23.25" height. this guys is gonna be pushing 10000watts that is 10K that is outrages plus hes giving me the hole install the whole works. i gotta dynamat the roof, floor, all 4 doors, rear qt panels, rear hatch. run 2 alternators wire 4 battery's and it has to be all be down in 4 weeks for the first sound comp down here in tx. if your in to car audio he should hit about 150 easy we are shooting for 155 tho. haha my little infiniti q45t hits 140's. well OK 138.5 im gonna dynamat some more of the rear of the car and i hope it raises the the dB at least 2dB

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I was going to PM you about this so we don't clutter up the thread but you apparently have them turned off. Could always make a thread in the off topic section i suppose.

but its to late now he already staind it

I would be concerned about having a wood enclosure even if it's stained.
It would be difficult to keep clean and could get water damage from the humidity and harbor bacteria.

I built my wood enclosure around a glass tank.
I got the tank on Craigslist for $25 and it worked out well.

Easy to clean on the inside, yet the stained wood look outside.

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...size_thumb.jpg

I can give you some of the details if you like.

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Originally Posted by deltaneutral

I would be concerned about having a wood enclosure even if it's stained.
It would be difficult to keep clean and could get water damage from the humidity and harbor bacteria.

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Building wooden snake cages is nothing new. With proper sealing and such, things such as humidity and bacteria should never be any more of a problem than with other cages if maintained right. Thanks for the input and suggestions though :gj:

yeah mine is completely sealed on the inside beside vent holes. i can pour water on the bottom of each cage and the water just sits there. i painted mine and i sealed with sealer

Well I haven't had too much time to work on the cage over the past several days, but I did get some done. I'm in the process of finishing up the staining and starting on the sealing, so all of that wood is sittin in the basement pretty much the same. I did get the frame for my door cut to size, mitered and routed for the plexi.

Here is roughly what the door will look like, but the center piece will be, well, in the center.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...s/DSCN1462.jpg

One corner at a time, using 90 degree framing clamps and wood glue.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...s/DSCN1463.jpg

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Originally Posted by Smooth23

Well I haven't had too much time to work on the cage over the past several days, but I did get some done. I'm in the process of finishing up the staining and starting on the sealing, so all of that wood is sittin in the basement pretty much the same. I did get the frame for my door cut to size, mitered and routed for the plexi.

Here is roughly what the door will look like, but the center piece will be, well, in the center.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...s/DSCN1462.jpg

One corner at a time, using 90 degree framing clamps and wood glue.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...s/DSCN1463.jpg

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awesome your using titebond II that is all i uses for gluing joints. I'm also a fan of liquidnails - paneling glue and and for a sealer i use a adhesive/caulk/sealer and its not toxic and its water based they have it in white and clear. I buy the clear. only thing i forgot the name of it.

i like that your using 90% clamps but for a stronger bond i would also use wood claps like demonstrated in my post here is a pic
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...c/IMG00284.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...c/IMG00285.jpg
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k3...c/IMG00280.jpg
The tighter the bond the stronger it will be

so for GREAT JOB

ill be away from the computer for the rest of the day so if you have any questions

just email me at timderiksen@gmail.com

Yes I've had good results with the Titebond products in the past, so I stick with what works. I've also got small project nails in the corners to keep em from moving. I might try using wood clamps on the next corner, I'm out of town for the weekend so its at a stand still.

I've finally decided what I'm gonna do about heating on the bottom. 2foot of 11" flexwatt attached to the inside bottom of cage, then I will lay 1/4" wood around the perimeter of the floor and around the flexwat, then put a thin waterproof panel of some sort as the actual floor that the substrate, etc will sit on. That way theres a bit of a gap for the flexwatt, and below the flexwatt will get some holes in the wood for circulation.

good deal