Intro to my Hoggies

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Originally Posted by TJ_Burton

Your setups look good to me, although using a temp gun or digital thermometer with a temp probe at the hot spot would be a much more accurate way to tell how warm the enclosure is getting.

In regards to UVB:
It has been more recently discussed that Western Hognose do in fact benefit from UVB lighting. Female hogs specifically seem to become calcium deficient with age and fertility, causing the need for UVB (D3) and calcium supplementation. I have spoken with a few big breeders who have all agreed that their breeder females fare much better when either given UVB during daytime hours, or when food is supplemented with Calcium containing D3. I personally use the Cal/D3 method as I keep my hogs in a rack system and UV lighting is not an option. I would either continue to use UVB for your hogs, or simply switch to Cal/D3 and dunk the rodent's behinds in it prior to feeding the hogs.




I am not sure how many hogs you have worked with, but given the 75 or so hogs I have had in my care, I find that males and females are absolutely equal when it comes to feeding issues.

I also find that the temp being correct will affect feeding to a degree, but raising temps if they are slightly low (84.F) will not necessarily make a difference. I have had better luck with the methods I mentioned earlier (not offering food for 30 days, and then offering food in different ways depending on the snakes disposition).

I never recommend live pray with older hogs; the pray size they would require are usually able to defend themselves, and given hogs are not constrictors and take their prey live, they are at much greater risk for injury during feeding. I have never found males or females to prefer live prey at adult sizes, but if feeding becomes a major issue and the hog refuses meal for 3 months, you can try scenting with a toad. This is usually a last ditch resort and I have never had to use it. I do know of some big breeders who like to utilize the toad scenting method though, so it is an option.

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I've been keeping hognoses since I was 17 years old, and have bred them off and on for well over 20 years. While hoggies have become popular over the last 6 years or so with the explosion in morphs, I remember when I could not give them away...........

Regardless, I've been keeping snakes for over 3 decades and have long since learned that there is more than one way to skin a cat. Just because what I recommend does not jive with your practices does not make me wrong or you right - or vice versa - agreed?

I have a male mexican hognose that will routinely fast for up to four months out of the year and has done so for 10 years. I have had far more feeding problems with males than with females and I have had far more success in getting them to eat when they have a 90 degree hot spot to utilize.

In fact, other heterodon keepers often find feeding success with hot spot temps in excess of 90 degrees......

I only have experience with westerns, all of which are captive bred (many were bred by myself).
I put all of my year+ old hogs through a brumation whether or not I intend to breed them; simply because that is what they would naturally experience. 3-4 months of no fasting isn't really a feeding issue, as much as it is just a normal process for westerns. (Not sure if Mexicans have the same sort of yearly brumation as westerns).

Love to hear more about your experiences with westerns vs. Mexicans; I know they are very similar.

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In fact, I know that Gregg Madden specifically recommends a hot spot temp higher than 90 degrees. Should we ask him how many heterodon he's worked with too?

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I never asked how many you had worked with, rather I stated the sample of westerns I have had experience with and stated that I had not experienced the same results as you have. That wasn't a stab at you or your response, I just stated that I had not found the same results. If you have worked with hundreds of hogs more than I, than it is intirely possible you have found different results.

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Originally Posted by TJ_Burton

I only have experience with westerns, all of which are captive bred (many were bred by myself).
I put all of my year+ old hogs through a brumation whether or not I intend to breed them; simply because that is what they would naturally experience. 3-4 months of no fasting isn't really a feeding issue, as much as it is just a normal process for westerns. (Not sure if Mexicans have the same sort of yearly brumation as westerns).

Love to hear more about your experiences with westerns vs. Mexicans; I know they are very similar.



I never asked how many you had worked with, rather I stated the sample of westerns I have had experience with and stated that I had not experienced the same results as you have. That wasn't a stab at you or your response, I just stated that I had not found the same results. If you have worked with hundreds of hogs more than I, than it is intirely possible you have found different results.

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TJ:

The husbandry for mexicans is much the same as their natural ranges do have an overlap.

Where I live in Northern California, my sexually mature males will just stop eating in late November and that is my cue to start brumation. I don't use artificial light in my herp building and the shortening of the days seems to trigger this. Since our rainy season doesn't hit in ernest until January and continues until April, I've sort of discounted that barometric pressure plays a role.

Looking at my excel feed/breed/clean and poop sheets, it was in 2006 or so when I began upping the hot spot in their tubs and found that out of 7 males I had at the time, 3 began eating more consistently. I still have stubborn feeders and the kennerlyi in question feeds hard from July to September and then goes all picky on me until he just stops in November. Even after he comes out of brumation, he is a spotty eater and in 2010, he ate two lizards in consecutive weeks in April and then nothing until late July when he became a bottomless pit.

I have found that kennerlyi are more likely to prefer lizards. We have a plethora of blue bellies in our area and I have a captive breeding group I use to feed several species. A few of the more stubborn feeders of both kennerlyi and nasicus will readily take a lizard - some just refuse to cooperate.

It's all good TJ. It's always important to keep in mind that everyone has a slightly different take on how to do things...................I am always open to hearing how other people go about keeping their snakes, as ultimately, my practices are nothing but a collection of techniques successfully used by others.

That's great info to keep in mind! Thanks for taking the time to explain it all.
I don't have access to lizards other than anoles, and so far with the westerns I have had no reason to switch from rodents yet since they have been fairly easy to get feeding on rodents. I do have access to toads if need be, but thankfully have not had to resort to that.

Hopefully between our combined suggestions, the OP is able to find a method that works well for them! I have a feeling the hot spot is above 84.F given the placement of the thermometer strip; time will tell!

I tried to shoot you a PM but your box was full, I still wouldn't mind sending it if you can make some space!

Beautiful hog you have! I hope he proves to be something more for you, one thing i love about hogs is there so variable and the normals come in so many ranges of colors :gj:

Heeeey, another question. I've never seen this behavior before. The last few days, the male has been soaking in his water dish. He doesn't look like he's in shed, he's just hanging out in there a lot. Still really active. Is this normal? I don't ever see my female do it. Maybe too warm and just trying to cool off? Or could there be some sort of irritation? I don't see any mites, but is that a possibility?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26.../waterbowl.jpg

Okie doke, just gonna go with he's just bein' adorable. ;)