Intro to my Hoggies

[TJ_Burton]

Your setups look good to me, although using a temp gun or digital thermometer with a temp probe at the hot spot would be a much more accurate way to tell how warm the enclosure is getting.

In regards to UVB:
It has been more recently discussed that Western Hognose do in fact benefit from UVB lighting. Female hogs specifically seem to become calcium deficient with age and fertility, causing the need for UVB (D3) and calcium supplementation. I have spoken with a few big breeders who have all agreed that their breeder females fare much better when either given UVB during daytime hours, or when food is supplemented with Calcium containing D3. I personally use the Cal/D3 method as I keep my hogs in a rack system and UV lighting is not an option. I would either continue to use UVB for your hogs, or simply switch to Cal/D3 and dunk the rodent's behinds in it prior to feeding the hogs.

The males are often more difficult when it comes to clearing their plates.

They key to hoggies is to provide them with a nice hot spot. Unlike other colubrids they do enjoy a nice basking spot in the range of 90 degrees or so. I find that this hot spot often solves some of the stubborn feeding issues.

I have also found males to be more inclined to prefer live prey or PK prey in comparison to females.

I am not sure how many hogs you have worked with, but given the 75 or so hogs I have had in my care, I find that males and females are absolutely equal when it comes to feeding issues.

I also find that the temp being correct will affect feeding to a degree, but raising temps if they are slightly low (84.F) will not necessarily make a difference. I have had better luck with the methods I mentioned earlier (not offering food for 30 days, and then offering food in different ways depending on the snakes disposition).

I never recommend live pray with older hogs; the pray size they would require are usually able to defend themselves, and given hogs are not constrictors and take their prey live, they are at much greater risk for injury during feeding. I have never found males or females to prefer live prey at adult sizes, but if feeding becomes a major issue and the hog refuses meal for 3 months, you can try scenting with a toad. This is usually a last ditch resort and I have never had to use it. I do know of some big breeders who like to utilize the toad scenting method though, so it is an option.