14 yo newbie here with a shopping list and some questions :))

[chickenooget]

hey!! i'm a newbie to snake owning and this forum but i've read a lot of threads here and everyone seems so informed and nice! anyways my parents agreed to getting me a baby ball python (not sure what morph yet) for my 15th birthday which is super exciting since i've been wanting one for so long. i'm getting him/her in 2 months!! i've been doing a lot of research and shopping to prepare and i was wondering if you guys could help look through the products i want to buy and answer a few questions? *i apologize for the length of this in advance lolol


Shopping List
$40.99 - 10 gal. Grreat Choice Terrarium - 20x10x12 in.
$13.99 - 24 QT Zoo Med Aspen Bedding$19.99 - 11 x 11 In. Ultratherm UTH
$10.98 - 2 Exo Terra Reptile Caves - Medium - 9x6x2.5 in.
$11.32 - 2? Exo Terra Water Dishes - Medium - 3.75x5x1.5 in.
$28.23 - Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat
~$20 - 2 AcuRite Digital Humidity and Temperature Monitors
$9.99 - Exo Terra Reptile Terrarium Background
$7.99 - Underground Reptiles Frozen Hopper Mice - 10 Pack


Possible/Future Things to Buy:
$6.99 - 50 Watt Exo Terra Heat Glo Infrared Spot Lamp, 120 Volt
$12.20 - Zilla Premium Reflector Dome
$2.45 - 2 cu. ft. Cypress Mulch


^^ does this seem okay?


Questions:
I really don't wanna mess up my first time owning a snake so I have a lot of questions sorry! ^^;
- i read on a stickied post that i should feed hoppers for the first 3-5 meals. 10 frozen hoppers is the lowest bulk quantity i can find so would it be okay to feed my snake hoppers for 10 meals? i just don't want to waste them...
- should i get a 2nd water bowl? i see some people have one on the warm side and one on the cool side, but other people just have one.
- could i just have 2 temp/humidity monitors in the tank or should i have probes?
- so i know that my bp needs privacy so i plan on covering the back of the tank with the exo terra background and covering the 2 adjacent sides with like black paper or something. is that sufficient enough for it?
- how long would i be able to use the 10 gallon until i upgrade? and when i upgrade, should i just dive into a 30-40 gallon?
- do i need a heat lamp for a 10 gallon tank?
- approx what length is a 100 gram bp?
- once i do get a heat lamp, should i get day/night bulbs? is a day/night cycle necessary?
- how often will i need to clean the hides? how often will i need to fully clean the tank and replace substrate and stuff?
- after waiting a week after my snake arrives, how often/much would be advised to handle it? i want to handle it as much as possible as a baby to get it used to it but i don't want to stress them :/


lol those are the only questions i can think up right now
if anyone could help answer a few at least that would be really appreciated! thanks so much

[Zincubus]

No time at the moment but I would say one thing ....

Try and buy off a breeder , ideally a fellow forum member as they will normally be healthier snakes and you'd have more choice of morphs .

Reptile stores are basically selling the ones the breeders couldn't sell in many cases ..

The MAIN thing when buying a baby Royal / Ball python in my opinion is to make sure your getting a GOOD feeder !

Some are poor , some average but the good feeders REMAIN good feeders in my experience ...


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[Kira]

Please make sure to get a thermostat too, not just a thermometer. Thermostats control the UTH and make sure it doesn't get too hot. An unregulated UTH can reach well over 100 degrees which can burn a snake. I recommend the Jumpstart thermostat. You can get it on Amazon! It's pretty easy to use: plug it into the UTH, plug it into the wall, and the set what temperature you want. For example, if you set the thermostat to 90 degrees, it will turn off the heat mat when it reaches over 91 degrees and turn it back on when the heat mat gets under 89 degrees.

One water bowl is plenty. I have mine right in the middle of the enclosure. Try to get one that is somewhat heavy so it can't be knocked over easily.

Day/night lights are not needed. A ceramic heat emitter (CHE) is what I recommend using. It's a bulb that only produces heat and no light. Some light bulbs can be too harsh for ball pythons so it's better to just use one that only puts off heat.

Your plan for covering the enclosure sounds great! I used some leftover black fabric for my enclosure (it's taped to the outside of the glass).

I'm glad to hear that you plan on letting your ball python settle in for a week before handling it. After that about 3 times per week is sufficient. Just be sure to wait at least 48 hours after your snake eats before handling it. Otherwise it may regurgitate its meal.

You seem very responsible and I think that you are going to do great with your ball python. I love to see people ask a lot of questions before buying one!

Oh and like Zincubus said, definitely get your ball from a breeder. Often times ball pythons at pet stores aren't very well taken care of so many of them are sick or don't eat or have mites. It's better to spend a bit more for a high quality python that doesn't have eating issues.

[Zincubus]

Please make sure to get a thermostat too, not just a thermometer. Thermostats control the UTH and make sure it doesn't get too hot. An unregulated UTH can reach well over 100 degrees which can burn a snake. I recommend the Jumpstart thermostat. You can get it on Amazon! It's pretty easy to use: plug it into the UTH, plug it into the wall, and the set what temperature you want. For example, if you set the thermostat to 90 degrees, it will turn off the heat mat when it reaches over 91 degrees and turn it back on when the heat mat gets under 89 degrees.

One water bowl is plenty. I have mine right in the middle of the enclosure. Try to get one that is somewhat heavy so it can't be knocked over easily.

Day/night lights are not needed. A ceramic heat emitter (CHE) is what I recommend using. It's a bulb that only produces heat and no light. Some light bulbs can be too harsh for ball pythons so it's better to just use one that only puts off heat.

Your plan for covering the enclosure sounds great! I used some leftover black fabric for my enclosure (it's taped to the outside of the glass).

I'm glad to hear that you plan on letting your ball python settle in for a week before handling it. After that about 3 times per week is sufficient. Just be sure to wait at least 48 hours after your snake eats before handling it. Otherwise it may regurgitate its meal.

You seem very responsible and I think that you are going to do great with your ball python. I love to see people ask a lot of questions before buying one!

Oh and like Zincubus said, definitely get your ball from a breeder. Often times ball pythons at pet stores aren't very well taken care of so many of them are sick or don't eat or have mites. It's better to spend a bit more for a high quality python that doesn't have eating issues.

Agreed , as to prices I've always found the breeders to be far cheaper than the stores who have massive costs to cover ....unless you're talking about buying the more expensive morphs off breeders , of course .

I know of a bloke ( not even a breeder ) who sold his clutch of unwanted 'normal' Royals to his local store for £7 each only to see them for sale a few days at £79 each !!

Gradually they all sold even at that crazy price .

Many people don't even know about the breeders or the online classifieds and simply hand over really good money for run of the mill snakes . At least those were healthy enough .... at least when he handed them over to the shop , anyways


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[chickenooget]

Please make sure to get a thermostat too, not just a thermometer. Thermostats control the UTH and make sure it doesn't get too hot. An unregulated UTH can reach well over 100 degrees which can burn a snake. I recommend the Jumpstart thermostat. You can get it on Amazon! It's pretty easy to use: plug it into the UTH, plug it into the wall, and the set what temperature you want. For example, if you set the thermostat to 90 degrees, it will turn off the heat mat when it reaches over 91 degrees and turn it back on when the heat mat gets under 89 degrees.

Thanks for answering so many questions! I was actually planning on getting that exact thermostat lol ^-^ Is it compatible with any UTH (like the Ultratherm one)?

[chickenooget]

No time at the moment but I would say one thing ....

Try and buy off a breeder , ideally a fellow forum member as they will normally be healthier snakes and you'd have more choice of morphs .

Reptile stores are basically selling the ones the breeders couldn't sell in many cases ..

The MAIN thing when buying a baby Royal / Ball python in my opinion is to make sure your getting a GOOD feeder !

Some are poor , some average but the good feeders REMAIN good feeders in my experience ...


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Thanks so much! Would buying a snake from the MorphMarket site be a good idea? And is The Big Cheese Rodent Factory a good supply for mice/rats?

[predatorkeeper87]

Thanks so much! Would buying a snake from the MorphMarket site be a good idea? And is The Big Cheese Rodent Factory a good supply for mice/rats?

yes to both, a lot of the members here sell on MM. Big cheese is a highly regarded source for feeders.

[Craiga 01453]

First of all, GREAT JOB with your preparation!! You are putting in the due diligence that many people skip over and that is AWESOME!!! You are setting yourself up for success, my young friend!! You could teach a LOT of adults a few things already!!

Keep in mind I am sharing what I know, and what my experiences have taught me. I am not an expert, and it's always good to hear varying ideas with varied success and failure rates...
A few quick answers to your questions:

-The size of the snake will vary, but just for reference, when I got my BP in mid-January he was 20" and 128 grams. As of 2/24 he was 21+" and 188 grams.
-As far as feeder size, I believe you will be fine feeding the hoppers til your 10 run out, then switch to the appropriate size
-One water bowl is enough in your 10 gallon setup, it's up to you whether you add a second when you upgrade. I sometimes add a second during dry winter months to help keep humidity up
-Honestly, if you can afford to upgrade to PVC when it's time to upgrade to the snake's forever home it is worth it. Glass looks great, but temps/humidity can be a pain in the rear end. If you prefer glass, I think a 40 gallon breeder tank is perfect. I use 40 gal breeders now and am fine with them until I can eventually switch to PVC.
-In a 10 gallon, your UTH may be enough, depending on the ambient temp in the room the snake will be kept in. Day/night lights are not required. Your BP will prefer less light and feel more safe and secure without them.
-Wrapping 3 sides of the enclosure is a great idea!
-I spot clean every time I see any poop/urates or any time my snakes make a mess exploring, spilling water or whatever. The sooner the mess is cleaned, the better. Bacteria and mold can't build up if it's not there in the first place. I also do a thorough cleaning about once a month, which includes hides, water bowl (clean water daily/every other day while giving the water bowl a quick wash), decorations, glass, etc...
-As far as handling, I would wait til your snake gets 2 meals in him/her before doing much handling. Believe me, I know it's tempting to hold your new snake, but you have 20+ years to hang out with your snake, so let him/her adjust. After that, 3-4 times a week is plenty, especially while your snake is still young. BPs take very little handling to acclimate to humans when done properly. They are a very docile species who tolerate handling well, however, over-handling will often cause stress, which can lead to your snake going off food, etc...

Kira hit the nail on the head with the thermostat!!!

Anyway, hope I helped a bit.
Like I said, you are well on your way. Keep reading, keep asking questions, follow advice you get from experienced keepers and you will be successful with your new BP!!!

- - - Updated - - -

First of all, GREAT JOB with your preparation!! You are putting in the due diligence that many people skip over and that is AWESOME!!! You are setting yourself up for success, my young friend!! You could teach a LOT of adults a few things already!!

Keep in mind I am sharing what I know, and what my experiences have taught me. I am not an expert, and it's always good to hear varying ideas with varied success and failure rates...
A few quick answers to your questions:

-The size of the snake will vary, but just for reference, when I got my BP in mid-January he was 20" and 128 grams. As of 2/24 he was 21+" and 188 grams.
-As far as feeder size, I believe you will be fine feeding the hoppers til your 10 run out, then switch to the appropriate size
-One water bowl is enough in your 10 gallon setup, it's up to you whether you add a second when you upgrade. I sometimes add a second during dry winter months to help keep humidity up
-Honestly, if you can afford to upgrade to PVC when it's time to upgrade to the snake's forever home it is worth it. Glass looks great, but temps/humidity can be a pain in the rear end. If you prefer glass, I think a 40 gallon breeder tank is perfect. I use 40 gal breeders now and am fine with them until I can eventually switch to PVC.
-In a 10 gallon, your UTH may be enough, depending on the ambient temp in the room the snake will be kept in. Day/night lights are not required. Your BP will prefer less light and feel more safe and secure without them.
-Wrapping 3 sides of the enclosure is a great idea!
-I spot clean every time I see any poop/urates or any time my snakes make a mess exploring, spilling water or whatever. The sooner the mess is cleaned, the better. Bacteria and mold can't build up if it's not there in the first place. I also do a thorough cleaning about once a month, which includes hides, water bowl (clean water daily/every other day while giving the water bowl a quick wash), decorations, glass, etc...
-As far as handling, I would wait til your snake gets 2 meals in him/her before doing much handling. Believe me, I know it's tempting to hold your new snake, but you have 20+ years to hang out with your snake, so let him/her adjust. After that, 3-4 times a week is plenty, especially while your snake is still young. BPs take very little handling to acclimate to humans when done properly. They are a very docile species who tolerate handling well, however, over-handling will often cause stress, which can lead to your snake going off food, etc...

Kira hit the nail on the head with the thermostat!!!

Anyway, hope I helped a bit.
Like I said, you are well on your way. Keep reading, keep asking questions, follow advice you get from experienced keepers and you will be successful with your new BP!!!

[Craiga 01453]

Thanks so much! Would buying a snake from the MorphMarket site be a good idea? And is The Big Cheese Rodent Factory a good supply for mice/rats?

MorphMarket would be a great place to shop for your BP. Lots of reputable breeders, you're sure to find the right snake for you on there.
I have not used big cheese (yet) but hear good things

[Slither Seeker]

how refreshing to see someone doing some good preparation before the snake arrives! and I like craigafrechette line so much i'm going to add it to my signature: Keep in mind I am sharing what I know, and what my experiences have taught me. I am not an expert, and it's always good to hear varying ideas with varied success and failure rates.

keep in mind pet stores try and kit you up with pretty much the same list of stuff (thats where they make their money) regardless of the reptile you are buying... it's really a sad state of affairs. for the most part, the common set up is good for desert reptiles and not so good for moderate temp/humidity critters like BP's. Most of the time they are hoping to sell the reptile before their poor husbandry practices kill it. a breeder is a much better way to go unless you find one of the few stores out there that actually has a decent reptile department.

- as for tanks, if you must go with a glass tank, I'd recommend a 20 gal long, it is not too big for a baby and not too small for a medium, it will give you time before needing to upgrade. look around on craigslist for one (also look for your local "buy nothing or gift everything" FB group, sometimes these things can be had for free), they should be $20 or less (have parents do the pick up, CL can be creepy) or check out petco for their $1 fish tank sale, I've scored several 20 gal longs that way.
- scrap the heat lamps, an Ceramic heat emitter is better, better yet, go with two UTH's or flexwat set ups with two jumpstart thermostats, one set to 80, one set to 90, with a hide over each, insulate the tank with 1" insulation and mostly seal the top and you will have a much easier time keeping temp and humidity spot on. you may not need insulation depending on how warm your room is. if you can swing the cash or get help from the rents, a PVC enclosure made for BP's is a very nice way to save time and in the long run, money.
- as for thermometer, I think it's fine to go with a cheapo velcro type for the ambient temp (and as a general back up) but spend the good money on a temp gun, it will give you the actual surface temp inside the hides, where it counts most, frankly, every first BP should be sold with one, IMHO!
- if you go with a screen top, use tin foil to seal it up to conserve heat and humidity. they don't need a lot of ventilation, they live in burrows in the ground protected from the harsh lights and vibrations of the outside world.
- I like cypress mulch for humidity control, every so often you can actually just pour a few ounces of water directly in if it's getting dry... much less frustrating all the way around than using heat lamps and screen tops and misting all the time.

- lastly, spend lots of hours pouring over all the morphs by doing a general google search. give finding a pattern/color you like some good time then look for a breeder with that pattern. I really think it helps a person to be successful if they choose an animal they really feel a deep connection to. if you can choose one in person, better yet! check out this link for some good ideas: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...With-Pictures!