» Site Navigation
0 members and 713 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.
» Today's Birthdays
» Stats
Members: 75,904
Threads: 249,099
Posts: 2,572,074
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
|
-
Registered User
-
-
Registered User
0.1.0 Columbian Boa: Nibbles
0.1.0 Ball Python: Cuddles
1.1.0 Pit Bulls: Rosie and Conan
0.0.1 Black Moore Gold Fish: Godzilla
0.0.1 Multi Colored Gold Fish: Multi Cam
-
-
No, the UTH and heat lamp have vastly different wattages... The only time that a single thermostat can control 2 heat sources is if they are identical in every way.
I would suggest getting a lamp dimmer or second hydrofarm to control the heat lamp.
Last edited by The Serpent Merchant; 09-01-2012 at 06:00 PM.
~Aaron
0.1 Pastel 100% Het Clown Ball Python (Hestia)
1.0 Coastal/Jungle Carpet Python (Shagrath)
0.1 Dumeril's Boa (Nergal)
0.1 Bearded Dragon (Gaius)
1.0 Siberian Husky (Picard)
0.1 German Shepherd/Lab Mix (Jadzia)
-
The Following User Says Thank You to The Serpent Merchant For This Useful Post:
-
Registered User
Yeah I have a dimmer I forgot to take a pic of it lol thanks though!
0.1.0 Columbian Boa: Nibbles
0.1.0 Ball Python: Cuddles
1.1.0 Pit Bulls: Rosie and Conan
0.0.1 Black Moore Gold Fish: Godzilla
0.0.1 Multi Colored Gold Fish: Multi Cam
-
-
Registered User
I have this thermostat on my rack system. I have seperate heat strips for each tub and each heat strip has it's own plug. All of the plugs are plugged into a power strip and the power strip is plugged into the hydrofarm. The herpstat comes with one temp sensor probe. The probe is attached to one of the heatstrips and when that heatstrip reaches the desired temp, the hydrofarm kills the power to the powerstrip which kills the power to all of the heatstrips. Once the probe recognizes that the temp has dropped a few degrees, the hydrofarm repowers the powerstrip and the heat strips. This works well because all of my heatstrips are identical and I want the temps in each tub to be identical.
Basically if you used the thermostat, your light would cut off each time the desired temp was reached on the UTH...so basically it would cut on and off every 5 seconds or so.
What is the purpose of the black light on your tank? Extra warmth? The UTH should be enough. You could plug the light in seperately if you want it on all the time.
1.0 Spider Ball
0.1 Lesser Ball
0.1 Pastel Ball
0.1 Fire Ball
0.1 Hog Island Boa
1.0 Ghost Corn
1.0 Amel Het Motley Corn
0.1 Sunglow Motley Corn
-
-
Registered User
I don't have a UTH yet so the black light right now is the only source of heat
Last edited by darthkevin; 09-02-2012 at 12:14 PM.
0.1.0 Columbian Boa: Nibbles
0.1.0 Ball Python: Cuddles
1.1.0 Pit Bulls: Rosie and Conan
0.0.1 Black Moore Gold Fish: Godzilla
0.0.1 Multi Colored Gold Fish: Multi Cam
-
-
No as stated it would strobe. The Hydrofarm is a poor t-stat painfully in accurate and slow to response make it a poor choice. It can be made to work but is not something I'd recommend unless it were used as a failsafe.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
-
BPnet Veteran
Re: Hydrofarm thermostat question.
 Originally Posted by kitedemon
No as stated it would strobe. The Hydrofarm is a poor t-stat painfully in accurate and slow to response make it a poor choice. It can be made to work but is not something I'd recommend unless it were used as a failsafe.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
i completly disagree with this ive been running a hydrofarm for months and my temps remain very well withen 93-95 degrees im constantly checking with an infared it works just like all the other on/offs i wouldnt use it for a incubator but for a rack system it works good
2.3 normals
1.0 100% het pied
1.1 spider
1.0 pastel

-
-
Registered User
 Originally Posted by Abaddon91
i completly disagree with this ive been running a hydrofarm for months and my temps remain very well withen 93-95 degrees im constantly checking with an infared it works just like all the other on/offs i wouldnt use it for a incubator but for a rack system it works good
That's all I needs to know thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
0.1.0 Columbian Boa: Nibbles
0.1.0 Ball Python: Cuddles
1.1.0 Pit Bulls: Rosie and Conan
0.0.1 Black Moore Gold Fish: Godzilla
0.0.1 Multi Colored Gold Fish: Multi Cam
-
-
Also should be noted that the hydrofarm allows temperatures to sway about 5 degrees (+-2 each direction from set point) before activating and deactivating. It can be slightly problematic for stable stable, but because the temperatures aren't within +-2 degrees from a medium in the wild I doubt that there will be much an issue with it. Just plug the light and the uth to a power strip, plug it into the t-stat, put the probe in the cage where it can sense the ground temperatures, and make sure it can't be moved by the snake. It may not be a precise set up, but it's a set up that will work in a pinch.
-------------------------------------------------------
Retics are my passion. Just ask.
www.wildimaging.net www.facebook.com/wildimaging
"...That which we do not understand, we fear. That which we fear, we destroy. Thus eliminating the fear" ~Explains every killed snake"
-
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|