beard comparison

[blackcrystal22]

So how is ur buddy qualified to do this??? is ur buddy a herp vet?

and beardies are soooo much harder than ball pythons. you really can not compare the two.

You don't have to be a herp vet to be qualified in breeding bearded dragons..

He breeds bearded dragons, Chondros, chameleons, alligators, monitors (recently got a few croc monitors), geckos, spiders, and all sorts of feeders, and all sorts of other reptiles, to supply his thriving herp shop which has been in the same shopping center growing since I was in 1st grade, and I'm now 21, so I would take that experience as qualification

I'm not comparing breeding balls and beardys, but I'm just stating that the BP's are my main focus, and I'm just trying out breeding beardys, everyone who's done it has tried for a first time, so i've done my research and I'm just practicing what I've learned, to make an attempt.

He does sound pretty qualified to me. I think what got most people concerned (had me for a minute too) was that the last picture you have in your first post seemed like it was the current size, which I see it was a long time ago now.

I would get a good gram scale for $20 from Walmart or Amazon and weigh yourself some beardies. Just to be safe.

[OgleRpets]

I bred my first clutches of dragons this year and let me tell you I was going through about 10,000 crickets every 4 days!!! That was also with feeding them dubias and turks. They also got fresh salads made with the food processor every morning consisting of kale, collard, mustard, and turnip greens. They also ate different kinds of squash that I shredded for them. Beardie babies eat ALOT they have to be fed insects 3-5 times a day especially if you are keeping more than 5 in the same cage. If not kept well fed they will start eating each other, hence how you get nips. And with nips goes the value of your dragon babies. Not to mention the vet care and bill that goes with it. They also need 5-15 minute warm baths so they stay hydrated as out of the egg they aren't sure about a water dish and some never decide to drink out of one. They do however take in water from their vents so bathing is a great way to keep them hydrated.

I highly recommend you research really really well before you decided to breed. If you keep your male and female together it WILL happen. A male dragon can also breed a female to death. Not to mention the ripping off of her neck spikes while he tries to convince her to mate.

It is essential that the habitat is correct for them. They should have UVB and a clear heat light. There should be a temperature 77 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit with a basking spot of 105 degrees. The beardies should be on a balanced diet with adequate calcium. They must be in optimum condition -- especially the female -- because breeding, developing eggs and then laying eggs takes a lot of metabolic energy. It is the hardest thing a female will ever do.

IMO females should not be bred until they are at least 2.5 - 3 years old and 350-400+ grams.

If you have witnessed successful copulations, then the male needs to be removed from her site completely. Then she will only lay the clutches she is prepared to lay. If she is still within site of the male she will continue use her retained sperm to lay. Which will wreak havoc on her body.

Bearded Dragon babies in my opinion must be at least 2 months old before you try and find homes for them otherwise they could possibly die from the relocation stress. That is why most of the pet store dragons die, they aren't fed enough and an irresponsible breeder let them go (sold them) too young.

Sorry if any of that sounded bad or harsh in any way it wasn't meant to, and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.