I think I finally got it!!

[swade_8]

As with many post's in here, I'm also new to this snake housing science but after spending the last few hours browsing the site I think I may have it somewhat figured out. I got my ball python (spot) a month or so ago, along with a ten gallon enclosure. The pet store also recommended some aspen bedding, a hide log, water dish, and a heating lamp.
- Since that day I have been struggling with the temps and humidity, that is before today when I realized that it was belly temps not ambient air temps that your looking for. After moving my acu-rite temp probes around to where they need to be and adding the alum. foil to the lid (until i can cut my lexan tomorrow) everything seems to be just right, minus the MASSIVE water dish in the tank.
The belly temp on the warm is a toasty 91 degrees, the cool is almost 76 and the ambient air temp is a tad chilly although the CHT and thermostat are running as we speak and I'm hoping that will help bring the cool side temp to where it needs to be. My only question is even though my temp probe is on the glass directly above the UTH and it's registering 91 degrees is there still a need for a thermostat on it or is it safe as is?
Thanks for all the useful posts!!
-Craig

[DutchHerp]

I'd say you don't need a thermostat... however, with the glass temp being 91, what is the temp on the substrate? Don't be surprised if it's low 80s...

Also, are you still using that half log? Those aren't secure at all, as you might imagine, and some nicer tight fitting hides will be much appreciated by your snake and that will probably be reflected in the snake's overall health and comfort.

[llovelace]

What type of uth are you using?

[swade_8]

I'd say you don't need a thermostat... however, with the glass temp being 91, what is the temp on the substrate? Don't be surprised if it's low 80s....

I'm not sure on the substrate temp. My temp gun is at work and i"m going to drag it home tomorrow to check and see what the temps are at. I'm hoping if they are as low as you say then raising the ambient air temp will bring them up to where they need to be. I bought the next size up Zoo-med UTH from what is recommended for a 10 gal. tank as it is sometimes quite chilly in my house.

Also, are you still using that half log? Those aren't secure at all, as you might imagine, and some nicer tight fitting hides will be much appreciated by your snake and that will probably be reflected in the snake's overall health and comfort.

After reading on here, I tossed that log aside and placed some applebees food containers in either end of the tank until I can buy some real hides tomorrow. Although they are not much of an eye pleaser, my snake should be much happier now with two enclosed hides at either end.

I also covered the entire cover in alum foil minus a hole for the Heat Emitter and four little triangles at each of the corners, will this let enough air circulate to keep spot happy?

[adamsmasher]

congrats on your new addition. I just picked up a new little girl this weekend and until I build my rack I had an extra UTH and red lamp so I picked up a cheap bag of aspen and a cheap rheostat @ the show I was at, picked up a 28 qt. sterlilite container @ wally world on the way home and now I'm wishing I had my other snakes in the same setup. Maintaining humidity is a breeze, temps are schweet. In any case, learn what makes your snake comfortable and stress free, its not always going to be exactly what you're told here. If they're eating, not making any clicking or popping noises, shedding as they should (not always going to be in one or two pieces) then they're happy and you should be too. Best of luck mate!



Chris

[swade_8]

Thanks, I'm really excited for him to get a touch bigger and to finally get the big tank that he can hang out in all day.

[adamsmasher]

well as they say around here, "Welcome to the addiction"

[Spaniard]

I would be wary just sticking a UTH on without a thermostat. Usually UTH's have a range of temps that they hit when they are plugged in without being regulated. If you haven't tested the pad running for 24hrs with a thermometer than can log your max/min temps its very risky not having a thermostat.

I would never recommend not having a thermostat on your heating elements, even a dial rheostat you can buy at HD for 10 bucks is better than nothing at all.

[ScottyDsntKnow]

As with many post's in here, I'm also new to this snake housing science but after spending the last few hours browsing the site I think I may have it somewhat figured out. I got my ball python (spot) a month or so ago, along with a ten gallon enclosure. The pet store also recommended some aspen bedding, a hide log, water dish, and a heating lamp.
- Since that day I have been struggling with the temps and humidity, that is before today when I realized that it was belly temps not ambient air temps that your looking for. After moving my acu-rite temp probes around to where they need to be and adding the alum. foil to the lid (until i can cut my lexan tomorrow) everything seems to be just right, minus the MASSIVE water dish in the tank.
The belly temp on the warm is a toasty 91 degrees, the cool is almost 76 and the ambient air temp is a tad chilly although the CHT and thermostat are running as we speak and I'm hoping that will help bring the cool side temp to where it needs to be. My only question is even though my temp probe is on the glass directly above the UTH and it's registering 91 degrees is there still a need for a thermostat on it or is it safe as is?
Thanks for all the useful posts!!
-Craig

I just went through what you're going through lol.



1st bold - Heating lamps suck up humidity. With that said some people(like me) have to run one on the cool side because the house is cold and the snake is in a room used by people. If this is the case use an infared bulb or a Ceramic Heat Emitter. I've found the infared light to heat better, plus I can see in the tank at night to make sure temps etc... are ok. However, if you can avoid a lamp then do so. ALSO, hide logs SUCK as a good secure place for your BP. What you want is a hide that the snake can feel secure in, enclosed on all sides with a small entrance. Reptile Basics hides are perfect for this.

2nd bold - Your UTH should ALWAYS be on a tsat or at LEAST a dimmer until you get one. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, a Repti-Temp 500R is just fine although some might disagree. Oh, and the temp probe should be IN the substrate right above the UTH so you can get accurate belly heat where the snake actually makes contact.

Hope this helps.

[swade_8]

I did toss the heat lamp, well actually i just changed it for a CHE that way there I'd have a backup in case the CHE died. I do also have a Zilla thermostat on the heat lamp and it's set around 83 and controls the ambient temp in the tank. I have the probe down around the bedding in the center of the tank as an average.

The probe for that t-stat is rather large however, if I buy another for the UTH which I plan on doing ASAP along with getting some more attractive hides other than the Applebees containers I'm using now, where do I put the temp probe, I"m assuming in the substrate alongside the probe for the thermostat?

I'm also thinking that he's a much happier little guy now, he seems more active and is hanging out on the hot side at the moment, probably workin on digesting the recently inhaled mouse. He is also lounging outside of his hide which I think means he's comfortable?