Help!!!!

[Little B-Py]

gotcha. thanks everyone for the help. I will keep ya'll updated with progress. So, how would I know if it is getting better anyways?

[missi182]

gotcha. thanks everyone for the help. I will keep ya'll updated with progress. So, how would I know if it is getting better anyways?

Well, no further extension of the wound is good, scabbing is good, puss is not so good but that depends on the amount. If you aren't sure don't hesitate to take him back to the vet so he can decide if he is progressing well.

[SatanicIntention]

Get him out of the pebble-filled tank. Rocks are a breeding ground for bacteria and are freezing cold if exposed to a cold room.

I would go get a 15qt tub, get one hide, put some paper towels in the bottom and put the UTH on half of the underside. Get a DIMMER to regulate the heat and measure it with a digital thermometer on the bottom of the tub, underneath the paper towels.

You want the temperatures to be between 92-95 on the warm side and 82-84 on the cool side. If you can't get those temperatures with your current set up, change it. Tubs are easy because the plastic holds heat like nobody's business.

Get a small hobby soldering iron to melt a few holes along the sides(not in the lid). I generally do 5-7 holes on the long sides and 4-5 on the short sides.

Once you get the temperatures and everything set, stick the snake in, make sure it has fresh water in a small crock bowl, close the lid, secure the lid, cover the whole tub with a dark pillowcase in a quiet part of the house and LEAVE IT ALONE. You need to leave the snake alone for at least a week, just check on it every two days or so and see if the water needs changing.

Then let it alone for another week.

After two weeks is up with NO handling WHATSOEVER, go get a LIVE small adult mouse. Put the mouse in a secure critter keeper or cage with food/water for 30 minutes to an hour. Make sure the room is quiet, dark and with NO traffic.

When this hour is up of pre-scenting, get the mouse out, drop it on the opposite end of the tub that the snake is on and CLOSE THE LID. Cover the tub with the dark pillowcase and LEAVE. Wait 30 minutes to an hour and see how the snake is doing. Well-fed mice will not do anything to the snake.

If the snake doesn't eat, remove the mouse and try again next week with the same procedure. Do not handle the snake unless absolutely necessary and keep it covered.

I would also have a vet check for internal parasites by getting a fecal done. Shouldn't cost more than $20 and deworming meds are very inexpensive.

But in all honesty, the snake needs to be out of that 20-gallon freezing cold tank. The cold pebbles aren't doing a whole lot of good either. Get him in something small such as a 15qt tub(I have pictures if you need them). It will help him feel alot more secure and not out in the open. The tubs are more like burrows to them and will help him get happy about wanting to eat.

[Myenia]

I'm sorry SatanicIntention, but I REALLY disagree about the mouse not hurting the snake part. I know you probably have tons more experience than me, but I've had one of my ball pythons attacked by a mouse. I got a mouse for free, so I figured I'd give my girl a shot at live feeding...it bit her 4 times in less than 15 seconds...it flat out attacked her. No, it didn't do much damage, but she certainly seemed traumatized for the next couple weeks of feeding.

I really don't see why you insist that feeding it a live mouse is a cure to a problem like this. Why does it need to be live, if the owner clearly states that the snake feeds on f/t? How is this relevant? Also, why is this the right time to push a fecal, when you have no idea if this person has had it done or not?

This person asked for help about an injury, not for your entire makeover of their husbandry. Sure, I can understand where one or two suggestions might come from, but this just seems rediculous.

[missi182]

Becky has a great description of how to easily create a secure, clean and proper enclosure which IS essential to healing a wound such as the OP is dealing with. Although I do not understand why the feeding part was relevant considering this snake is wounded and already easily feeding on F/t, and is injured so very unlikely to have an easy time with live prey if not absolutely necessary (which it is not). I did not know the OP had pebbles in the tank, but the OP also has already been told to use paper towel and sanitize the tank entirely.

[SatanicIntention]

I mentioned the feeding because when a snake is having to be ASSIST FED because it doesn't have a feeding response, then there is a PROBLEM. Yes? The snake is either bored, doesn't recognize the dead mice as a food source, or has other health problems such as internal parasites or the husbandry is off(which it is).

And live mice that are well fed are perfectly fine to leave in the enclosure for an hour, especially a small adult. I've left hoppers in with 65g babies overnight. No missing eyeballs(usually a missing mouse though). Mice and rats don't "attack". If they are stressed, they will defend themselves. Stick a piece of food in the enclosure if you're worried. I've yet to have a mouse take a chunk out of any of my snakes and none of my 45+ snakes are traumatized by me leaving a mouse overnight in their tubs.

[Little B-Py]

Satanic, thanks for the help but you have misread somewhere, not sure where though. I had coconut bark in the tank, not pebbles. I also cleaned out the whole thing and replaced the coconut bark with paper towels.

I'm not gonna go out and buy another tub just to have my 40 sitting around. I didn't buy this tank to have it sitting empty so tubs aren't an option. Could I just get a small UTH for the cold side to try and warm it up? What do you suggest?

[katiadarling]

I've only scanned this thread, my apologies if I duplicate a response, etc..

As far as getting the cold side up in temp. I keep my BP in a tub, but also keep the house at around 60 to 65, so I have two UTH, one for each end. I have a T-stat for each and run the warm one at 91 or so and the cool at 82 or so. I think that if you add an UTH and a t-stat it should help your situation out.

[Little B-Py]

that is doable. Thanks for the help.

[missi182]

It only happened last night right before my first post on here. The mouse was dead and dethawed. It was the first time he has eaten in a few weeks and the mouse was also the same size we have been feeding him.

The quote above is why I thought the OP was feeding o.k with F/T

The quote below I totally missed and gives a very good purpose to Becky's instructions. I agree that a live mouse is not harmful if watched and also agree that a live mouse is the best way to help a non-eater.

I don't feed him in his tank. i have a little blue steralite tub I put him in and I have to assist feed him because he won't eat by striking.

The only further point I would suggest is to use this method once the wound has recovered a little more.