I am not a believer -do you think you can convert me?

[icygirl]

Okay, I write this post with respect and a willingness to learn. However, I am having a hard time believing the following "recycled" statements (both of which I happen to abide by):

1. Ball pythons need to have two identical hides. One on the cool side and one on the hot side. This is because if they prefer one over the other they will not thermoregulate properly. They will choose security over their own well being.

When I had 2 different hides for my Caspie, she did exactly as you described. She stayed in the one she preferred 24/7. In the wild she'd have a lot more selection in where she wants to be. But in her tub, I am forcing her to thermoregulate using two hides only. Now that I use two identical hides, she alternates between the two hides equally; that is proper thermoregulation.

2. If an enclosure is to big, the snake may become stressed out and refuse food. Thus, you should get a smaller enclosure or put lots of extra hiding spaces.

Just look at WHERE your snake spends most of his time. Or, just take out a ball python and watch what he does. My own snakes quickly head for the tiniest, darkest places where it's impossible to get them out. I think many owners can attest to this too. That's simply how they feel most comfortable.

Now say you take a horse, and let him out for awhile. He probably won't try and stuff himself into some tiny crevice in the ground; rather he will prefer running about in pasture, grazing; furthermore he will be able to thrive with a social group of other horses.

Thus: Horse gets his pasture, and snake gets his hidey-holes. You wouldn't keep a horse in a tiny cramped cage, and you also shouldn't keep a ball python in a gigantic enclosure!

I would argue against these two theories based on the life of ball pythons in their natural environments. Having said that, I understand there are things you would not allow to happen with captive animals that happen in the wild.

For instance, I understand that many feed f/t because of the fear of rodents biting the snake. In this case, the naturalist would argue that if they eat live in the wild they should be able to do the same in captivity? In theory, this is true. Snakes in the wild feed live and probably get bitten. The difference is, in the wild the snake dies and balance is maintained. However, in captivity the owner is out anywhere from 100-20,000 dollars! So, in that case I could see how the natural environment theory would not hold any water.

I think you have answered your own question. The snake's not in the wild; he's in an enclosure made by his owner. It is the OWNER'S responsibility to ensure the snake's health and well being. We try to SIMULATE the snake's natural environment, because the snake has evolved over millions of years to that environment, and that environment is where the snake will thrive. However, where the natural environment and the enclosure do not match up is where we have to adjust - see explanation about the two identical hides.

That being said, I feed frozen/thawed mainly because it is convenient to me and most of my snakes will accept it, and it is not any worse for them than live. I have one ball that will only accept live, and I have no issues feeding him live. I don't buy much into the argument that feeding live will cause serious injury to the snake, provided that the feeding is SUPERVISED and the rodent is not left in with the snake for extended periods of time. Like you said, the snake can't flee from the rodent, so we as KEEPERS must provide it with the protection it would gain from fleeing in the wild.

Nevertheless, I do not know if there is evidence or a good theory that could suggest that BP's in the wild are dying/living shorter lives because they could not find an identical burrow to hide in or that they will not eat anymore because they left their 3 - 4.5 square foot territory.

You will quickly find out that most of the "community accepted" herp husbandry is not based on scientific evidence, but rather what has worked for hobbyists over long periods of time, and what has resulted in the healthiest animals who eat regularly and produce the best offspring. Herp-keeping is in fact the infant of the pet-keeping world.

All the advice I have given, and others have given, is advice we believe to be true and that has worked for our snakes. Like I said above, I am working under the philosophy that I must try and simulate my snakes' natural environment, but adjust my techniques for areas where husbandry and wild differ. But things can change, and there are some things that are not set in stone. I wouldn't go off thinking you can make up your own rules and have your snake thrive on them, but start out by taking advice from those snake-keepers before you and maybe you can build on them in future years as you gain more experience!