There are a LOT of variables that need to be looked at before you even begin to discuss frozen vs. live. The main issue is probably security. A snake will not eat unless they feel 100% secure because they are most vulnerable while digesting. They would rather skip a meal or two to insure their safety, than risk being eaten by something bigger and badder than themselves (you). That being said, it is vital that you first perfect your snake's home.

I'm sure you already know most of this, but I'll post it anyway just in case. Ball pythons need at least two secure hiding spots. If they are forced to sit out in the open, they become nervous. By providing little houses for them, you make them feel safe. You should also try to cover the ground of the tank with foliage so that they are covered wherever they go.

Now, in regards to the feeding box... It is best to allow the snake to eat in its enclosure. If you go to great lengths to make the snake feel secure in its home, why would you take it out and put it into an unknown place and expect it to eat? It may be refusing to eat because it doesn't like being exposed in its feed box. Contrary to popular belief, ball pythons do not become aggressive because they are fed in their enclosure. If you handle the snake before feeding it, then the animal will associate the opening of the tank with it being picked up, not with food being presented, thus forcing it into strike mode.

Also, if you're not heating the tank properly and keeping the humidity high enough, the snake may refuse to eat. Temperatures should be around 92 degrees F on the warm side so that they can digest their meal. If the animal doesn't feel that it can digest, why would it eat? Likewise, you should keep the cool side around 78-80 degrees F, so that it can cool off when it needs to. Humidity should be around 50% which is easy to achieve if you purchase a wide, but shallow bowl. I have the $2 plastic ferret bowls in my cages and they are wide enough to keep the humidity at 60%.

When considering security, you also have to realize that too much interaction from you is seen as a threat to him. If you are constantly looking in on him, handling him, or offering prey more than once a week, then you are probably making him nervous.

I know you would rather not feed live, but if your husbandry is good and the snake still refuses to eat, you may have to offer it live prey to entice it to strike. The mice that you have are no good. I would throw them away and find another source of feeders. They should be clean and dry when you open them. But the idea is to first convince the snake that it wants to eat. He may not want to eat something that is already dead. I have a female that will not eat frozen, no matter what I do. It is your responsibility to see that your snake eats, despite any ethical or moral reserves that you may have. Trust me, I'm a vegetarian and a tree-hugging animal rights person. It took me a while, but I got over it. And snakes really are VERY adept at hunting and killing their prey. Death usually occurs in under 30 seconds. They squeeze so hard that not only do they stop the mouse from breathing, but they also cut off its blood supply. The mouse will lose consciousness and die a quick death. When you purchase frozen mice, they are either placed into the freezer while still alive, thus suffering a long, drawn out and miserable death. Or they are gassed with Co2. This is the same as suffocation. In all honesty, I think that the snake is much more humane than any of our methods. Think about it.

And best of luck with your baby. If you post photos of his enclosure, we may be able to help you out even more.