Going insane (not eating)

[Antonella_M]

I don't know what to do, 4 weeks = no successful feeding! He crawls around at night standing on his tail, always looks so interested when I offer the mouse, but recoils in fear when he sees it up close. I warm the mouse's head and I tried lots of different kinds/sizes! His last shed was about 6 weeks ago but he's very hydrated and shiny. His humidity/temperature are within the right ranges, I even got an extra thermometer/humidity reader to double check.

Why is he acting hungry but hiding and recoiling from the mouse once he sees it? please help

[Mochelem]

What type and size enclosure is the snake in? Are there Hides? Have tried feeding live? Also how big is the snake? Also what are the temps? Just wondering what you consider the right ranges?

[Antonella_M]

the enclosure is about 30 inches x 50 inches and he has a "House" which is where he spends most of his time before going on his nightly escapades. I have never tried feeding him live, he's almost a year old, weighs a kilo. The ranges are what the vet told me they should be at: 29-31 Celsius during the day with humidity around 60% and a few degrees less at night

[Mochelem]

the enclosure is about 30 inches x 50 inches and he has a "House" which is where he spends most of his time before going on his nightly escapades. I have never tried feeding him live, he's almost a year old, weighs a kilo. The ranges are what the vet told me they should be at: 29-31 Celsius during the day with humidity around 60% and a few degrees less at night

First of all the enclosure is too large, that is a big enclosure even for an adult, your humidity is right but the temps are kinda low, 29-31 degrees is what your cool side of the enclosure should be. 32-34 degrees is the proper temp for the warm side. It should have two hides or houses one on cool side and one on warm side. By having the enclosure with two temp zones this allows the snake to thermo regulate its body to the proper temp. The reason it might not be eating is because of the cool temps, the snake might think its winter and some BP's go off feed in winter.

If you cant get a smaller enclosure try filling the tank with rocks driftwood and fake plants to take up some of the space in the enclosure. This will make the snake feel more secure.

Also have you tried feeding live mice?

[Somed00d]

it's probably the crazy weather we have been having in toronto.. I wouldn't worry just keep trying. I have a few that didn't eat for 6 months this year.. I would wait for 2 weeks between failed attempts to reduce stress as well as move his tank somewhere with no foot traffic.

You can't have an enclosure too large or else they would all die in africa because they dont have a tiny cage to live in, however you do need to make sure there is adequate cover so he feels secure, thats why people recommend smaller enclosures. If you don't already have some sort of fake plants etc i would pick some up.. the dollar store would probably have something. You mentioned he has a house, generally you should have two hides, one in the cooler side of the tank and one in the warmer side that way he dosn't have to sacrafice security for temperature because he is likely to hide rather than keep warm or cool off.

Richard

[Mochelem]

it's probably the crazy weather we have been having in toronto.. I wouldn't worry just keep trying. I have a few that didn't eat for 6 months this year.. I would wait for 2 weeks between failed attempts to reduce stress as well as move his tank somewhere with no foot traffic.

You can't have an enclosure too large or else they would all die in africa because they dont have a tiny cage to live in, however you do need to make sure there is adequate cover so he feels secure, thats why people recommend smaller enclosures. If you don't already have some sort of fake plants etc i would pick some up.. the dollar store would probably have something. You mentioned he has a house, generally you should have two hides, one in the cooler side of the tank and one in the warmer side that way he dosn't have to sacrafice security for temperature because he is likely to hide rather than keep warm or cool off.

Richard

I disagree the temps are low in the enclosure, the snake could get an RI and the snake might be going off feed from it, it doesnt matter what the weather is you should supply enough heat to heat properly.

Also snakes in Africa live inside termite mounds and abandoned rodent dens, they live very secretive lives inside very small cramped spaces, so the enclosure can be too large with too much open space so the snake doesnt feel secure... Another reason the snake might have gone off feed...

[JLC]

Here's a helpful little excerpt from our caresheet...

WHY WON'T MY SNAKE EAT?

In almost all cases, a ball python refuses to eat due to husbandry issues. Especially a young one. If your snake misses more than one meal (sometimes they won't want to eat while in shed) please check the following possible causes:

Lack of Security -- No hides, or hides that are too large or exposed (ie: half logs). They prefer dark, tight hides they barely fit into. Also, if the enclosure is too large, or too open (glass) or in a high traffic area with a lot of loud noise or movement. Another snake in the same enclosure can also cause serious security issues.

Over Handling -- Frequent intrusions into the enclosure, changes to the enclosure, and/or long frequent handling sessions can cause a shy snake to feel vulnerable and refuse to eat.

Improper Temps -- Temps that are too high or too low, or temps that fluctuate too much. Make sure you have an accurate and consistent read on your temps.

Improper Lighting -- Bright white lights shining directly into the enclosure, or 24 hour lighting can cause stress. Make sure there is some sort of day/night cycle.

Offering New Prey -- Changing prey species (ie: mice to rats) or methods (ie: live to f/t) can cause refusal. Such changes can be made, but may require patience and persistence.

Improper Offering of Prey -- Offering prey too frequently can do more harm than good. If a snake refuses, do not attempt to feed again for a week. Also, changing environments by moving to a feeding-box or removing hides and "furniture" can cause refusal in these shy snakes.

Prey Too Large -- Too large an item may intimidate a snake and cause refusal, or even a regurgitation if it is eaten. Also, if a ball python has eaten large meals in the past, it can cause a sudden an indefinite period of fasting.

Mites -- An external parasite common to snakes that must be treated and eradicated. A product called Provent-a-Mite (P.A.M.) is the safest and most effective method.

Seasonal -- Sexually mature ball pythons may fast for anywhere from a few weeks to a few months during their mating season (typically anywhere from late fall to early spring) especially if a sexually mature snake of the opposite sex is in close proximity.

Illness -- If all other possible reasons are eliminated, a vet check may be in order to look for internal parasites, as well as possible infections to the skin, scales, mouth or respiratory system.

Fortunately, ball pythons are extremely hardy snakes that can go for months (if necessary) of fasting without suffering any ill effects. This gives a responsible keeper plenty of time to figure out why the snake refuses to eat and get them on a regular, consistent feeding regimen.