Eating issues, with pictures! What's wrong with my tank!

[SlitherinSisters]

I think that maybe you're getting thermostat and thermometer a little confused? Thermostat controls the heat put out by the UTH and the thermometer goes inside the tub and lets you see what the temps are. Have you got a thermostat to control the heat source? This is important because UTH's and other heat sources can become much too hot when left running wide open.

On another note, it is really neat seeing everyone coming together on this one BP.Net at its finest

Oh my....yeah, I was a little confused. I have a thermometer in the tub and it says it's 80 in there. Of course I couldn't tell you how hot the heat pad is exactly.

Also, how do I know what's too hot? The heat pad doesn't seem hot to me at all. I can hold in on my bare skin without it getting too hot.

[starmom]

Yes, in my opinion you need a thermostat. Whether you go with a UTH or flex watt or radiant heat panel- you need a thermostat!

[Argentra]

Yes, you NEED a thermostat...especially with UTH pads and flexwatt. What only feels 'rather warm' to your hand could actually be 98-110 which is WAY too hot for the snake!

To determine the temps of the pad, you place the probe of your thermometer (which gives the "out" temp) right on the bottom of the tub over the pad. That is the reading you want to get.

When you get a thermoSTAT to control the pad - anything from a top end Herpstat for $110, to a good Johnson for $80, to a cheap but good enough ZooMed ReptiTemp for $25 - you will tape the probe of the stat directly to the heat pad or flexwatt Under the tub, then plug the heat source into the stat. Using the readings of your thermoMeter, you 'tweak' the settings on the t-stat until you have the desired temps.

Sorry if that was confusing...

[frankykeno]

Isis, for now though until you can sort out the whole thermostat thing you can just pick up a rheostat.

Why this is so important is that there is no heating equipment made that won't, at some point, spike temps. Spiked temps can and will cause belly burns on a snake so you want to avoid that at all costs. The use of a thermostat or rheostat as a controlling device on a heating source accomplishes that goal.

Basically a rheostat is a lamp dimmer switch. Looks like this....



This is the Lutron brand available at Home Depot and most major stores. Retails for generally around $10.00

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100001525

The rheostat (lamp dimmer) gets plugged into your wall socket and the heating equipment you are controlling gets plugged into the outlet on the dimmer. Like this....



These dimmers are rated for up to 300 watts but you should be in no way even close to that on a single heat matt but you should get in the habit of knowing what wattage any heating appartus is (just a safety precaution really and a good habit to form right up front).

Now once you have your rheostat plugged into the wall socket and your heat mat plugged into the rheostat you need to see how these things work.

Move the slide up until the LED light is brightest....mark a C there in permanet marker. This indicates "cool". In other words the dimmer is exerting the maximum control on your heatpad therefore restricting electricity therefore causing the heatpad to cool. Now slide it down until the LED light is dullest....mark a W there in marker. This indicates "warm". This is the least amount of control from the dimmer (rheostat) on your heating appartus therefore allowing it to pump out more heat.

Almost everyone, me included, uses a lamp dimmer type rheostat backwards at first. Something in the human mind just says that bright light LED must mean more heat when it's actually exactly the opposite.

Now it's time to find the "sweet spot". That's very dependent on the temps of the room the tub is in, how big the tub is, choice of substrate, depth of substrate, etc. To make this easier on you choose a place in the room your snake is in that's not against a window or in direct drafts or in direct sunlight. Not on the floor either so you aren't getting cold floor drafts. This should be the most stable spot in your room for temperature fluctations.

Once you set up your tub there watch it over the course of 48 hours. You are aiming for 90 degrees warm side, 80 degrees cool side. When you find that spot on the slide that holds those temps best....mark it with a line. This is the "sweet spot" for that rheostat on that heating equipment in that room.

Looks like this....



This is where most often your tub will sit correctly but you must make it a habit to check this at least twice daily. Also at any other time that room's temps take a dramatic dip or rise due to weather conditions, a window open, whatever.

Rheostats aren't as good as thermostats but they are quite workable if you are willing to check them 2 or 3 times daily. For a single tub situation like this, if the tub is in a stable room condition, it should do just fine for you and the snake.

[reptile3]

Great info Joanna!!

Isis, for now though until you can sort out the whole thermostat thing you can just pick up a rheostat.

Why this is so important is that there is no heating equipment made that won't, at some point, spike temps. Spiked temps can and will cause belly burns on a snake so you want to avoid that at all costs. The use of a thermostat or rheostat as a controlling device on a heating source accomplishes that goal.

Basically a rheostat is a lamp dimmer switch. Looks like this....



This is the Lutron brand available at Home Depot and most major stores. Retails for generally around $10.00

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100001525

The rheostat (lamp dimmer) gets plugged into your wall socket and the heating equipment you are controlling gets plugged into the outlet on the dimmer. Like this....



These dimmers are rated for up to 300 watts but you should be in no way even close to that on a single heat matt but you should get in the habit of knowing what wattage any heating appartus is (just a safety precaution really and a good habit to form right up front).

Now once you have your rheostat plugged into the wall socket and your heat mat plugged into the rheostat you need to see how these things work.

Move the slide up until the LED light is brightest....mark a C there in permanet marker. This indicates "cool". In other words the dimmer is exerting the maximum control on your heatpad therefore restricting electricity therefore causing the heatpad to cool. Now slide it down until the LED light is dullest....mark a W there in marker. This indicates "warm". This is the least amount of control from the dimmer (rheostat) on your heating appartus therefore allowing it to pump out more heat.

Almost everyone, me included, uses a lamp dimmer type rheostat backwards at first. Something in the human mind just says that bright light LED must mean more heat when it's actually exactly the opposite.

Now it's time to find the "sweet spot". That's very dependent on the temps of the room the tub is in, how big the tub is, choice of substrate, depth of substrate, etc. To make this easier on you choose a place in the room your snake is in that's not against a window or in direct drafts or in direct sunlight. Not on the floor either so you aren't getting cold floor drafts. This should be the most stable spot in your room for temperature fluctations.

Once you set up your tub there watch it over the course of 48 hours. You are aiming for 90 degrees warm side, 80 degrees cool side. When you find that spot on the slide that holds those temps best....mark it with a line. This is the "sweet spot" for that rheostat on that heating equipment in that room.

Looks like this....



This is where most often your tub will sit correctly but you must make it a habit to check this at least twice daily. Also at any other time that room's temps take a dramatic dip or rise due to weather conditions, a window open, whatever.

Rheostats aren't as good as thermostats but they are quite workable if you are willing to check them 2 or 3 times daily. For a single tub situation like this, if the tub is in a stable room condition, it should do just fine for you and the snake.

[frankykeno]

You're welcome, Stephanie. Hope it's helpful.