Decisions, Decisions - Flexwatt

[frankykeno]

Reference to these racks.....

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=66319

Trying to make a decision here about flexwatt size and placement for the two big white melamine racks. Each shelf (there are 6) is 48" long.

For my 41 qt tubs I can fit one of those sideways plus 1 15 qt tub per shelf. For these I was thinking of going belly heat 4" flexwatt. This gives the heat to the back of the 15 qt tubs and along the back of the whole 41 qt. Will that be okay and still provide a good environment for the snakes in the 41's since they will basically have a back to front heat gradient instead of end to end.

For my biggest tubs (bigger than 41's, they are the huge underbed split lid type) I figure I have two options....

1) belly heat as above for the 41's giving that back to front of the tub heat gradient

2) or go with 11" flexwatt either as belly heat under only one end of the tubs or along the one side wall of the rack which would provide a more end to end heat gradient

Any suggestions or thoughts?

[TooManyToys]

I have several racks, one style has the heat tape on the bottom of each shelf and the other has it running down the back of the rack. Personally, I like the racks where the flexwat runs along the back of the enclosure. IMO it makes it easier to provide a wider heat gradient in the tub.

[Gloryhound]

I've built several racks and have found belly heat works best in an old house where the temps seem to fluxuate significantly and the old furnace never seems to shut off in the dead of winter. At least if the air temps in the room change that one spot of belly heat does not when attached to a good proportional T-stat.

I'm actually building a 10 unit high 41 qt rack right now. I'm putting one piece of 11" flexwatt under the back third of tub on each unit. I've also built an 18 unit 15 qt rack recently (2 tubs per level) and I used one strip of 4" flexwatt under the back.

I'll look into getting some pictures of them once I am done with the 41 qt rack.

[Blue Apple Herps]

Well, if you did the 4" for everything, it could be possible to just use one thermostat to run the entire thing. If you use 4" and 11", then you'll have to use two different thermostats to run each one.

I saw in the other thread that you're using Herpstat Pro (I have one and LOVE it!), so running two elements won't be a problem, though, if you did it all 4", that would free up another probe on the Herpstat that could then be used for whatever. If it was me, I'd go 4" all the way, then try and run them off one t-stat, and if the larger tubs needed different regulation, then I could switch it over, if not, then I have another port open.

[frankykeno]

Actually I don't have a Herpstat Pro, I was just enquiring about them.

I bugged poor Richard (who designed those white melamine shelf racks) and Tim Bailey (always a pleasure to talk to on the phone). I think I have my order down pat for the flexwatt and the tstats I need.

Gawd now my husband will be trying out his brand new drill! Why does this scare me? Will my marriage survive Mike and I attempting to build 3 racks in the next week? If things go wrong, can I come live with you Robin?

[Blue Apple Herps]

Oh, I guess I didn't read the thread in its entirety, I just saw "Herpstat Pro". Well, if you are thinking about it, its great. I can't recommend it enough. I like it because I have one port doing corn rack, one doing bp rack, one doing bp hatchling/sub adult rack, and one on bp incubator. It was cheaper than buying 4 separate thermostats. I can't recommend it enough.

Good luck with whatever you end up doing. Be sure and let us know how it works out!

[cassandra]

Gawd now my husband will be trying out his brand new drill! Why does this scare me? Will my marriage survive Mike and I attempting to build 3 racks in the next week? If things go wrong, can I come live with you Robin?

Lol, men and power tools can be a scary combination...you can come stay with me Jo and we can play with Lourdes and all my new rat babies!

(just not at the same time)

[SatanicIntention]

Jo, I made a rack like that out of 3/4" melamine coated particle board and it was only a 2-across(the 32qt tubs), and it bowed, making the tubs hard to slide in and out. If you're using those 32qt tubs, I recommend making a rack that is just single width and just go straight up with it, maybe 8 tubs high?

If you want to lighten them up a bit, using 2x4s for the sides instead of melamine will help substantially. I would still use it for the shelves though since it's waterproof. Home Depot also sells this water-resistant hardboard that is $4 per HUGE sheet, and that would be great to use for the sides(just nail them on with finishing nails in the spaces between the 2x4s).

This is what I am planning on doing just to lighten the racks up and so they are much more sturdy. Melamine isn't very sturdy and is easily stripped. It also is incredibly heavy so it tends to bow if not supported.

I have 2 more baby racks to build as well as another 27/32qt rack(can't decide on tub size) and another 41qt rack, so I'll post some drawings of how I'm doing mine. Maybe that will help you with some ideas

[1Mojo]

I used 17" from bean farm and will use it on my other racks.
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my shelf is 16" wide the flex watt is trimmed 1" on both sides to fit. works great.