Housing:

A baby 6-10" can be housed in a 20L (30"x12x12), as they get older a 40B(36x18x16) is better, as an adult you want at least 6sq. feet of floor space, In my opinion, you want a 4x2x2 or bigger for most dragons, smaller, or less active dragons can live in a 40B or 3x2x2, but with dragons, as you probably know, bigger is better. Just dont stress out a baby, I went 40B for a 9" baby, to now tomarrow she gets a 5x2x2 custom tank (shes 16 months, 18").

Substrate:
Tile (ceramic or slate, that is textured, and perfurably sealed)
Reptile carpet
Paper towels
Newspaper (unprinted better)
Non-adhesive shelf liner

An adult can live on playsand that is washed and sifted.

Avoid calcium sands, vitamin sands, colored sands, walnut shell, gravel, corn on the cob, wood chips ext.

Non particle are best IMO, as sand isnt great to dig in, is messy and a breeding ground for bacteria. I love Tile, and use paper towels as a quarenteen substrate when my dragon is sick.

Water:
Most dont drink from standing water thats correct, For a baby, try to get them used to baths, Bath them at least 2x a week (some bath daily), and on non bath days, mist their head or use a needle-less seringe/dropper to give water, dont mist the enclosure, just them, so taking them out may be needed. I dont use a water bowl.

Decor:

For babies, the less complicated the better, as they get older, you can get more elaborate, In my dragons new tank there is a basking rock, driftwood, tile, a salad bowl and a cave, and i am going to get a few fake plants, but thats an adult,

as a baby i had paper towels, a rock, a food bowl, and thats really it.

Basking/Shaded areas:

They need at least 1 good basking area, temp 100-110, dont go over 115, and under 95 (in farenheight). you want uvb hitting them when basking, so a long strip is good, or a MVB (certain bulbs are good, ill list below).

Babies caves are not recomended, as they hide alot, as they get older, caves can be given, expecially for brumation if they do. They are good if the dragon doesnt constantly go in there. Cool side should be 75-83ish.


Temps/Humidity:

Temps, 95-115, i perfer 105 or so, but differnet dragons like different temps.

Whats important about this is a good thermomiter, a digital with a probe needs to be left on the basking spot for 45 minutes to get a good reading, A tempgun is even better.

Humidity is really not as crutial with beardies as with some snakes, you dont want it wet, or humid as in feeling it, but not super dry. To low their inner ear can dry out, to high there is a risk of a URI. 30-50 is a good range. But i dont really measure as i do with my ball, its normally fine unless you are in a extreme weather area.

Feeding:

Babies/juvies:

Normally you should feed 2-3x a day as much as they will eat in 10-15 minutes, normally thats between 30-100 crickets PER DAY. Its alot of food, so i ordered online.

AVOID mealworms, they have no nutritional value that is benifitial to beardies, they have hard shells and are a impaction risk. But the head thing is a myth, they cant.

Dusting with calcium 4-5x a week and vitamins 1-2x a week, I use rep-cal. The type of calcium depends on the lighting, a florecent get the pink label calcium, a MVB the green label is better. and then for vitamins herperative (or similar) blue label.

They also should get a daily salad, you can dust this instead if they eat it, This should consist of a mix of things, like dark leafy greens.

Im not sure on this forums link policy, but go to beautifuldragons.com, and click on nutrition, theres a huge list of everything you can and cant think of, and if its good or not.

Adult:

Daily salad,

also 30-50 live feeders a week, spread out in any way,

Dust calcium 2-3x a week, vitamins 1-2x a week.

You can feed these true superworms once the dragon is over 15-16", these are healthier then mealworms but similar, avoid giant mealworms, and these are NOT refridgerated.

Insects:

there are a range of things, here are a few things that are good as staples:

Crickets
Roaches (feeder roaches)
Silkworms
Hornworms
Butterworms
Pheonix worms

All can be bought online, i can give you links to good places if you need.

Adults can also eat superworms.

For treats, waxworms can be given.

Lighting:

They need UVB to survive, They are sun loving animals, probably more then almost any other reptile, they are slowly parilized legs up without it, and their bones turn soft. (MBD).

Anyway, the problem is there are tons of bulbs that are dangerous because the field is unregulated. There are two good types of UVB bulbs, Florecent TUBES and Mercury vapor bulbs.

Florecent tubes:

Great for smaller enclosures, a few safe models, not very strong output so they generally require to be close to the animal (6-10 inches). They need to be replaced every 6 months.

Good ones are the (in order strongest to weakest):
Repti-sun 10.0 by zoo-med
Repti-sun 5.0 by zoo-med
Repti-glo 8.0 by exo-terra

The rest are not good, and either too weak, or dangerous.

Mecury vapor bulbs (MVB's)
These are much stronger, depending on bulb, range from the the strenght of florecents, to the stength of the sun, these usually require at least 12" away from the animal, sometimes more, And they produce heat too, Sometimes they are dim and have a yellowish tint, so its ideal to have a NON-uvb florecent along side it.

In order from best to worst:
Megaray (reptileuv.com)
T-rex active uv heat (same as megaray, just distributed to petstores by T-rex)
Exo-Terra Solar Glow (not sunglow, a new bulb, seems good)
Powersun (same strength as about the repti-sun 10.0, seems to blow out easy).

Anyway, you can find the distances from the companies.

Bulbs to avoid:

Repti-glo 10.0
ALL COMPACT UVB BULBS
ALL ESU or Zilla bulbs

more info on lighting uvguide.co.uk

hope that helps some, any other questions ask, there are other forums with great caresheets, a simple google search will show them.