Personally, I'd stop all handling other than what is absolutely necessary for enclosure cleaning until this snake is feeding and gaining weight appropriately. I don't like messing about with any snake under 200 grams if they aren't doing perfectly well.

Try to make sure your cool side doesn't drop below 80 for her. Stable temps = happy snake = snake that eats.

The big thing with these babies is that they feel safe and secure enough to hunt. Remember that when they are small their instincts tell them they are prey as much as a predator. This makes them nervy and jumpy and that's all perfectly normal stuff for a young snake. It's all about their survival. Try to tailor your feeding habits around this. Offer the snake food at night (pre-scent the area first), in a VERY quiet environment, in a VERY quiet manner with little fuss or movement around it. Monitor the live feed but don't hover over (triggers the OMG there's a predator over me response from the snake).

Refusal to eat isn't the problem, it's a symptom of a problem or set of problems. Figure that bit out, the snake is more likely to eat for you.

Can you describe in detail how you feed or try to feed this snake. Sometimes something in those details is the clue to the refusals.

Also after a regurge they do need to heal somewhat. When that prey comes up, so does some of the strongest stomach acids on our planet. That burns them inside and even outside if they lay in their own regurge mess. Allowing a snake to properly heal from a regurge is a good thing, rush feeding and you may get another regurge, then a vicious cycle of them.