questions questions and more questions

[Tripppysmurf]

I figure seeing as I am barraging you guys with questions I would drop a new one to ya in hoipes of helping out. First off is a vet visit neccasary within the first 2-4 weeks? Buying all ym snakes gear sort of set me back a little cash wise. Can I wait? If so then I am good. Secondly. live feed or dead? Thirdly and most importantly when you get a new snake two days after feeding day how long shoudl you wait to try and feed it?

[darkangel]

What is the snake currently eating? Live? Frozen? If he's on live it may be difficult to switch him over to frozen, but it is possible; in which case you would want to feed live for the time until you transition him over. You want to keep from holding him/attempting feeding for at least a week or two.

[Freakie_frog]

I figure seeing as I am barraging you guys with questions I would drop a new one to ya in hoipes of helping out. First off is a vet visit neccasary within the first 2-4 weeks?

No Only if you suspect it has a medical problem

Secondly. live feed or dead?

Well that depends on your snakes preference if it'll eat P/K (dead a.k.a prekilled) then feed that but if it easts live then feed it live. There are several great threads on feeding live here.

Thirdly and most importantly when you get a new snake two days after feeding day how long should you wait to try and feed it?

Give your snake a week to settle in and feed it every 7 days.

[frankykeno]

I figure seeing as I am barraging you guys with questions I would drop a new one to ya in hoipes of helping out. First off is a vet visit neccasary within the first 2-4 weeks? Buying all ym snakes gear sort of set me back a little cash wise. Can I wait? If so then I am good. Secondly. live feed or dead? Thirdly and most importantly when you get a new snake two days after feeding day how long shoudl you wait to try and feed it?

The vet visit isn't necessary unless you're having problems or the snake seems ill. A fecal float is a good idea but that only entails taking a bit of snake poop, popping it into a ziploc baggie and then into the fridge. Drop it off at the vet for the float to be done (they are looking for signs of internal parasites). If you bought the snake from a reputable breeder, then a fecal float is likely very unnecessary. From a pet store, probably a good idea at some point.

As far as feeding, what was the snake eating successfully before you got it? I'd stick with the same prey type (mice or rats), same prey size and same method of feeding (live, pre-killed or frozen/thawed) until the snake has settled in for at least 4 weekly feeds if not more, before I'd mess with that.

Usually feeding every seven days is the norm so if it just ate two days ago, you'd want to offer it a feeding in 5 days. You might even want to push that to seven days to really allow the snake to settle in to it's new home properly.

Don't worry about asking a lot of questions. You should always of course do some of your own research but it's good to double check things here and heck, we all have questions and are still on a life long learning curve with these wonderful creatures.

[Tripppysmurf]

Yeah I wanted to check with everuone here. I can nto rememebr the first name of the breeder the ept store got the snakes from other then his last name is stone. The snake looks healthy and moves around alot in the cage. I woke up this morning to her(I am hoping it is a female seeign as it has a big head already) wrapped around the log trying to escape from the tank hehe. I am looking at that as a good sign. She crawled into her hide this morning and pretty much stayed there. Af far as I know she has been fed live food so I will stay with pinkies until time to change to PK as I would prefer that way. I was todl less danger in the long run to the snake