Chlorexidine use?

[lord jackel]

it breaks down very quickly.

Acutally this is NOT true. According to Sigma (the patent holder)

"Dilute chlorhexidine solutions may be stored at room temperature, and a shelf-life of at least 1 year can be expected, provided that the packaging

is adequate. "

The issue is not breakdown of the potency but the potential for microbial contamination due to non-steralized water being used.

Here is the entire PDF from Sigma for those that would like to read it.

http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/sigma/product%20information%20sheet/c9394pis.pdf

[rabernet]

I admit, I have not researched it, like Raul, I trust Kara's experience and opinion on it. Perhaps she'll see this and comment.

[jotay]

I usually mix a batch every week and use said batch that week for cleans and spot cleans. Never had any problems and it seems to be doing it's job. Been using like that for over 4 yrs now. Maybe I am just lucky or maybe it is ok


In the last two months I have been using the cleaning deal Rich @ Reptile Basics does which is using the Chlorexidine then a follow up w/ Healthy Habitat and that seems to work great. The whole bleach deal and all the follow up w/ clean water is just to much work and not feasible for me. Besides I am hell w/ bleach. I would have bleach spots on everything w/ in a 50 foot radius.

[Kara]

There are different types of Chlorhexidines available - diacetate (2%), gluconate (2%), digluconate (20%), etc. Each needs to be mixed specifically according to directions. Different dilutions have different contact times & effectiveness against various pathogens, so it's important to know what you're using & for how long, etc.

To my knowledge, chlorhexidine's effectiveness is reduced after prolonged exposure to organic matter - i.e. using a sink full of water mixed with clorhex, and soaking funky water bowls in it isn't going to be the most effective way to use this disinfectant, but spraying/let set/rinsing water bowls would be a better application. I've heard this from several sources that I trust (vets, experienced zookeepers, etc), and if I'm not mistaken it also got a mention in VPI's ball python book as well. Different water qualities (hard water vs. distilled vs. regular bottled) may be known to reduce the effectiveness also which is why I go by the "better safe than sorry" of mixing only what I'll need for that day/time, and going from there.

Not to say that the various Chlorhex's aren't good products - they can be very effective when used according to directions. It's just all the conflicting information about them that makes me nervous sometimes, but I'm a worrier by nature & would again, rather fall back on "better safe than sorry." I could easily go through a day's worth of mixed Chlorhex if I was using it for all my disinfecting, so that wouldn't be a problem...there are just other products I prefer to use instead. I personally use Nolvasan-S for wound irrigation (both human and animal), and either Trifectant or Virkon for all my other disinfecting applications.

The most important thing - regardless of what disinfectant you use - is to thoroughly research its effectiveness, necessary contact times, etc, and then make the best educated decision you can in terms of use for your collection. (which is why you're on B-P.net in the first place! )

Just my $.02...hope it helps!

K~

[slither9192]

Acutally this is NOT true. According to Sigma (the patent holder)

"Dilute chlorhexidine solutions may be stored at room temperature, and a shelf-life of at least 1 year can be expected, provided that the packaging

is adequate. "

The issue is not breakdown of the potency but the potential for microbial contamination due to non-steralized water being used.

Here is the entire PDF from Sigma for those that would like to read it.

http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/sigma/pr...t/c9394pis.pdf

Great info. But unfortunately this doesn't apply to me. Like Kara said there are different types of chlorexidine. I have Chlorexidine gluconate. Correct me if I am wrong but I think gluconate is the only one used in the hobby?

[rabernet]

Thanks Kara! I love the Barker's book, and I refer to it often. So....here is what they have to say:


P. 178, Ball Pythons of the World, Vol II: Ball Pythons by Barker and Barker

Chlorhexidine gluconates

A variety of chlorohexidine disinfectants are found in use in snake rooms. Some of the brand names with which we are familiar are Nolvasan, Virosan, and a product simply called Chorhexidine Solution.

Chlorhexidine products are often used as disinfectants for inanimate objects or as antiseptics for cleaning skin wounds. Some chlorhexidine compounds contain alcohol, and these have been found to have antimicrobial properties superior to those containing only chlorhexidine. Chlorhexidine is effective against many bacterias, and against yeast (especially Candidia). It is not effective against most viruses, mycobacteria, bacterial and fungal spores or Pseudomonas.

Convenience is the main thing that chlorhexidine products have going for them. They are readily available and reasonably priced. They are a moderately effective disinfectant against many microorganisms. They are not corrosive to snake hooks or other equipment left to soak. We have used dilute solutions of Nolvasan to clean the shells of incubating ball python eggs of mold and fungal growth without any observed deleterious effects on the eggs.

The disadvantages are that this class of disinfectant has poor activity against most viruses and many gram-negative bacteria. Only Virosan has any activity against Pseudomonas (Johnson, 1996). Chlorhexidine products are not effective in the presence of organice debris. These products must be mixed and discarded daily.

There is also an interesting section on Disinfectants and Why Use a Disinfectant at All if anyone is interested.

[slither9192]

Thank you for that great info Rabernet.

[jglass38]

I have nothing but respect for the Barkers and for Kara, but I want to see studies that show that a spray bottle of Chlorhexidine and water (non hard or alkaline) is less effective after its been sitting for a week. It would make sense that in the prescence of fecal matter and urates, that it would break down.

[Argentra]

OK, I've been watching this thread carefully cause I just got some of the stuff from Rich so I wouldn't have to go through the whole bleach and rinse cycle thing.

I suppose, to be safe, it WOULD be best to just mix what you need to be sure of maximum potency, but here's the thing:
How do you mix up an 8oz spray bottle when the directions are 1oz per Gallon ?? How many single drops of the stuff would that take? I am awful at calculations (took hours for me to figure out how much repti-safe I needed to add to a 24oz bottle) so I would really love it if someone could help me out on this

Thanks

[Kara]

1 fl gallon = 128 fl ounces.
1 fl. oz = 2 tablespoons or 6 teaspoons.

May help you break things down a bit more.