I'm not sure, If it was me? then yeah I would to keep p from running under it and generally to make cleaning easier.
Since you would also have a hole where the cable came in I'd leave a little air gap between the matt and the glass too. Possibly even have another hole in for the thermostat sensor to lie atop the matt to prevent the snake moving or otherwise interfering with it. As long as you adjust it to give the desired reading on the surface of the glass it should always be correct whether the snake is lying there or not I think.
But then I've never used this method so am only going on general principles - To be safe get a few more experienced answers.
On the ployurathane I hoestly don't know but since they can live for up to 48 years apparently I would doubt it. What you could do is buy a tub setup for temp housing for the times maintenance is needed perhaps?
dr del
Last edited by dr del; 06-13-2007 at 08:49 PM.
Reason: spot the muppet
Derek
7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.
I built my cage and used flexwatt. I put the flexwatt down then put a piece of vinyl flooring over the flexwatt. I left the vinyl about 2 inches longer on each side to allow it to go up the side of the cage. I then used a staple gun on the two inch flange to hold the vinyl in place. I didn't want to put staples in the bottom because I was scared the staples might rust. I attached a picture I found it shows the vinyl floor and the piece up the side. It makes cleaning the cage very easy. I have had the cage running for about six months with no problems. I sealed everything in three coats of a water based polyureathane.
Originally Posted by dr del
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