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Registered User
Re: Okeetee Aggression
Originally Posted by Ginevive
I would wear a thick shirt, and just grab. Pull him out and don't flinch, recoil, etc.
I'll have to agree with this!!
While not everyone will recommend this method, this is one thing that helped me to calm down my fiesty young boa. He's still weird, and will nip just out of the blue, but he keeps it to a minimum...he's no longer a striking, flailing psycho. If you grab the snake and it startles you, you quickly put it down, you just taught it that, to get what it wants all it needs to do is intimidate you. Do not let the snake teach YOU! Hold it until it settles down, and make sure it's nice and settled before you let it have what it wants. I'd say 15-30 minute sessions once or twice a week would be alright and should give you results.
Joanna had told me that snakes do best on a consistent schedule, and she is absolutely right. I give myself a small preperation talk, as she suggested, and I just reach right in and grab little Kona. I used to use gloves but they were too restricting for me. I had almost dropped him numerous times because I could not feel how tightly he was holding on. That idea did not last long, and I just started using bare hands. His nips did not hurt at all, I think it's just the anticipation of getting bit that makes us a bit nervous. My cat fights harder and hurts ALOT worse than Kona could! I'm sensitive to cat scratches...after a "wrestling" match with my cat, my hands can barely move, but a nip from Kona, I just giggle at and tell him he's silly. He's starting to give up all fighting, now, however, and rarely nips. I think he's finally realizing that there's nothing he can do to intimidate me, anymore. He still thinks he can catch me off-guard, but I'm always ready to stand my ground should he decide to snag me. Pulling back is the WORST thing you can do...you may pull out teeth or seriously injure your baby's jaws!
Also, yes, I also agree that handling THAT MUCH a day is way too much and way too stressful. My calmer snakes get handled about once a week. I usually just change their water, clean up any messes every 1-3 days, and toss in their food (1 time a week). I typically only handle if someone is acting "sketchy," and looking like they're starting to not trust me. They've never bitten me. I just reassure them I'm still the same person and they're back to their normal personalities. Kona gets it religiously 1-2 times a week, and is still getting calmer each handling session.
Just pick a routine and stick to it. Be calm. And check out all of what Joanna/frankykeno asked you! It could be a feeding response, husbandry problem, etc. Make sure everything is perfect in ALL areas. Good luck!
Last edited by Rakshasi; 06-05-2007 at 03:30 AM.
Reason: forgot some things.
~*Raven*~
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Registered User
Re: Okeetee Aggression
I'm liking these tips which I could use with taming my JCP (I know, different species, but same scenario). I thought about gloves but it seems like it would defeat the purpose (lack of my scent).
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Registered User
Re: Okeetee Aggression
Originally Posted by Grim91Z
I thought about gloves but it seems like it would defeat the purpose (lack of my scent).
I don't know how much snakes imprint on scent, really. The downside to the gloves (for me) was just that I couldn't tell how tightly the snake was gripping me. I really didn't want to drop him and have him dart away and be even more afraid of me. Or even hurt him, though I only hold him over my lap while sitting, just in case he ever does try to mislead me and then try darting away. Kona is a sneaky snake, let me tell you! I personally don't believe anyone who says snakes can't reason like that. As soon as they think you've dropped your guard, they may very well surprise you! Kona has, and still does on occassion. He's toning it down much more, now, but once every 2-3 weeks or so, he'll "test" me to see if I've broken down and completely trust him.
I see him like a child, sometimes. Some kids just live to push your limits, see if you've turned into a softie...this is how Kona is. I'm wise to his tricks, though, and I only hope he realizes that and actually stops completely, but I still adore him and find him to be a great addition to my collection.
Back to the gloves-thing...I think only someone that has a very aggressive snake that causes alot of painful bites/damage should use them. Or of course, someone that is afraid of pulling back and hurting the snake should also use them. I'll stick to my no-gloves, hands-on method. It makes me so much more comfortable.
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Re: Okeetee Aggression
Yeah; I only handle my corn once every few days or so.
Another hint, is to use something like a tank lid (screen top) to block your hand from the snake's head. Then pick him up bodily, but avoid moving your hand around prey-like in front of tis face. Usually by the time they are out of the cage, they are more interested in seeing where they are and investigating things instead of defending their comfortable territory
-Jen. Back in the hobby after a hiatus!
Ball pythons:
0.1 normal; 1.1 albino. 1.0 pied; 0.1 het pied; 1.0 banana.
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Registered User
Re: Okeetee Aggression
Good point Genivive.
I too just reach in and grab, generally right around the middle of the snake's belly. I don't try and go for the upper or lower third of the snake's head or tail. Preditors tend to go for the head (and with some snakes whos tails are designed to look like a head, like rubber boas), thus, they tend to be more deffensive (IME) when you reach near their heads.
If picked up by the mid-section then supported underneath at the head portion, they tend to freak out less because their heads are not being "attacked".
Now granted, I would not pick up a venomous snake in that fashion though...that's a good way for a venomous snake to twist its self around and tag you. :eek: But non venomus snakes, corns and baby corns especially, being bitten is the least of my worries. Getting splatteed by grease hurts more than that.
This has already probably been mentioned in this thread but I'll go ahead and say it anyway. Baby corns *tend* to be a bit bitey. Keep working with your little guy and he'll continue to settle down. *Not* working with a baby corn is a good way to raise an aggressive, bitey adult corn.
~Denise~
My pet and critter list......in short form:
38 different tarantula species
8 different scorpion species
0.1.0 MBK
1.0.0 Bull snake
1.0.0 Blue point Siamese
1.0.0 Black/gray tabby
1.0.0 husband
1.4.0 Children
Lunacy General, Not Crazy, Just Different
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Registered User
Re: Okeetee Aggression
Thanks To All of you for some really great suggestions. We have backed off on the handling and I addressed some feeding issues. I am a newby and I wasn't feeding them enough. So last night instead of his usual 1 or 2 pinkies he got a F/T hopper mouse. Big difference, in his behaviour, I went in his tank to change water and make sure he didn't regurge and he didn't get defensive and no striking. I didn't try and pick him up though which won't happen for a few days. Again thanks for all the help and I will keep everyone posted as to " How The Okeetee Strikes!"
Mike
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Registered User
Re: Okeetee Aggression
I'd agree with what everyone else is saying. Handling once a day is more than enough for my snake. I just recently got a snake and it's an Okeetee corn that is approximately 18". I got him in April at a snake show and he's not agressive at all. In fact he's usually pretty shy until he's out for awhile and then he's pretty fast. I think its just the individual snake since we have roughly the same type and size of snake and yet mine is calmer than calm.
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