tank setup discussion split from petco employee thread

[bearhart]

there are a great many petco is stupid threads here at bp.net and just as many if not more horrible stories to go with them.

On a lighter note, the petco by me just now started to carry those cheap t-stats by zoo-med I think. I know nothing fancy, but it's far better than nothing and I was pleasantly surprised to find petco "associate" pushing for a new bp owner to buy one along with all the other doo-dads. Yea I know it was just to pad the bottom line, but as long as the customer is told t-stats are necessary than petco has done their job in that department. (But yes, I know there are countless other areas in the herp section alone that need improvement. accurate thermometers being one of the many)

Link to my incident with Petco on why Petco needs proper caresheets, thermometers and general knowledge of species.
http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ighlight=petco

You don't need a thermostat to keep a healthy bp. Unless perhaps you live w/o central air.

[Gooseman]

You don't need a thermostat to keep a healthy bp. Unless perhaps you live w/o central air.

central air only controls ambient temps, you NEED a t-stat to control your basking spots temps, or atleast a rheostat that you check frequently....

most people with 1 snake don't keep their temps in their house at 85 degrees anyways and need a way to keep ambient temps up and under control.

[dr del]

You don't need a thermostat to keep a healthy bp. Unless perhaps you live w/o central air.

Would you mind explaining the reasoning behind that statement?


dr del

[bearhart]

I've got a gradient from 90+ to room temp on the cold side. The temps in the cage vary a few degrees along with the house temp. My ball tends to cycle between the warm and cool sides as needed.

Except for now that is - he's being a jerk. I've moved and changed stuff around and he keeps going on cold-side strike. I think he does it on purpose to torture me.

[bearhart]

Would you mind explaining the reasoning behind that statement?


dr del

Central air means stable environment temperature. With a stable environment temperature the cage temp is going to also be stable and so, with some adjustments you can control it w/o a feedback loop.

[bearhart]

IN my case, I have an always-on UTH. I can control the temp of the warm side by controlling the thickness of the substrate. After I get it where he starts cycling between warm and cool side then I don't have to worry about it too much because the house temp only changes a few degrees ever.

[dr del]

I've got a gradient from 90+ to room temp on the cold side. The temps in the cage vary a few degrees along with the house temp. My ball tends to cycle between the warm and cool sides as needed.

Except for now that is - he's being a jerk. I've moved and changed stuff around and he keeps going on cold-side strike. I think he does it on purpose to torture me.

So what are the max top and bottom range of the temps on both sides of his enclosure? You say they vary a few degrees - any more precise long term readings?

What heat source are you using to provide the above ambient temperature? And is it controled in any way at all?

**edit**

OK always on uth - does it have a dimmer switch or anything? Your right stable ambients are a good thing - but flexwatt unlimited still gets to 105f and needs limited in some manner.

**end edit **


dr del

[bearhart]

Or to look at it another way, I'm relying on the houses thermostat to keep the environment around the cage constant and, therefore, the temps inside the cage constant.

[Gooseman]

IN my case, I have an always-on UTH. I can control the temp of the warm side by controlling the thickness of the substrate. After I get it where he starts cycling between warm and cool side then I don't have to worry about it too much because the house temp only changes a few degrees ever.

that can be a very dangerous way of controlling temps. UTHs tend to "spike" every once and awhile and can lead to burns. Also, if you have too much substrate on top of the UTH to cool down the tank, there may not be enough heat radiation from the glass (assuming you are using a viv) and the glass will shatter from the heat stress. I'm afraid you will not find many people on this site who'll agree with you in saying that a t-stat is not necessary for a ultimately healthy bp.

[dr del]

IN my case, I have an always-on UTH. I can control the temp of the warm side by controlling the thickness of the substrate. After I get it where he starts cycling between warm and cool side then I don't have to worry about it too much because the house temp only changes a few degrees ever.

I'm sorry to say that is in all probability a very bad idea.

What if he decides to dig? does he come into contact with the heat pad running full on at (if its flexwatt) 105 f and get burned? Yes, yes he does.

What kind of substrate do you use that this isn't going to happen?

On another point that might help you you mentioned moving his house about and now he stays on one side?

Are both the hides identicle? If you post pics of your setup temps etc in another thread we might be able to help you get him back to thermoregulating.


dr del