live feeding

[Thunder Kat]

Before I say any thing I want every one to know that I don't want this thead to get ugly (as they some times do) I just have a question for people a little more experinced than me. I feed one live mouse a week to my female bp, and I keep a close eye on her until she is done eating. This week when I dropped the mouse in it grabbed her on the back right away I put my tongs between its mouth and her back. Then she grabbed the mouse's head (as she usualy does) and constricted. Then she let go before the mouse was dead and tryed to eat it, and it bit her again on the face. She made the mouse let go right away. It wasn't a "bad" bite (no blood or pulled back scales). She was on live when I got her as a baby and has never had a proublem till now. This is her first bite and I want it to be her last, but I don't want to switch her to f/t (I think it might be a bit stressful for her and I've had problems in the past with f/t). My question is; are there any "tricks" to poblem free live feeds? I know Adam you said you feed all of yours live without a bite or scratch, how do you do it? I think I reacted quickly and appropitly. I just don't want my baby geting hurt again. Ayn suggestions would be greatly appreacited!

[frankykeno]

Kat, all I can say is to make sure the live prey is of an appropriate size for that particular snake (not overly large), that the snake is awake, aware and ready to strike, that you introduce the live prey across the tub from your snake so the snake has a chance to set itself for it's strike, that hides are left in the enclosure as many snakes hunt from their hide or use it as "cover", make sure the rodent itself is well fed and well hydrated prior to introduction and that as keepers we monitor but not hover over the snake as our larger heat signature and shadow may confuse or startle the snake and cause it to not be as quick and efficient in it's strike. Other than those thoughts, I'd just add that we only give our snakes about 10 to 15 minutes tops to strike, if they don't we remove the live prey as we've found over time that if the snake doesn't hit by then, it's really just not all that interested that week.

I'm not sure what your feeding routine is but these are just a few things we do with our snakes that all are live feeders to help ensure it all goes well.

[kavmon]

i feed live also, one thing that i think really helps is. pre-scenting the room with the rodents for about 15-20 min.

this should kick you snake into "feed mode". your snake should be waiting for the rodent.

consistent temps and husbandry also play an important part in consistent feeding.


vaughn

[jenakle]

I also tend to let the scent linger before I place the rat in, by sitting the box on top of the screen for a few minutes. Before I get near the cage with the rat, however, I go in and remove the water dish, the hide Osiris is not using, the 1/2 log, and the acurite. I've had too many feeds where the rat decides to make himself at home in the other hide or behind the water bowl, leaving Osiris to look at me like "Well, fine, but I'm charging him rent."

Removing the extra pieces may disturb Osiris for a minute, but leaving him the hide he's currently in also gives him a chance to wake up and pop his head out on his own. When he looks interested, I drop the rat on the other side of the cage, giving him plenty of readying distance/time.

More likely than not, Osiris strikes before the rat gets a real sense of his surroundings. Once Osiris has swallowed and starts moving towards his hide, I replace the water dish and the other hide. Later, once he's settled back down I'll slip the wood piece and thermometer back in.

I've seen him strike 'wrong' before, but by leaving him alone for a few seconds, I saw he quickly doubled his constricting efforts, completely cutting off the airflow of the rat so he didn't have the energy to fight back. If I'd interrupted, it would have taken Osiris that much longer to get back with the program. (Please note, of course, I would interfere if I saw the rat was actually getting a tooth in, but the little struggling scratches and attempts to bite are usually quickly handled by Osiris' strength.)

[frankykeno]

i feed live also, one thing that i think really helps is. pre-scenting the room with the rodents for about 15-20 min.

this should kick you snake into "feed mode". your snake should be waiting for the rodent.

consistent temps and husbandry also play an important part in consistent feeding.


vaughn

Vaughn ! Forgot that bit in my post. Pre-scenting really keys ours up, especially the ones that are a bit slower to strike. That time with the live rat scurrying around in it's own well ventilated container kicks them up that notch into "gimme gimme gimme" mode.

[Wolfsnaps]

I am not experienced at all...but what about putting the mouse in a pillowcase first and swinging it around. I have heard of some people doing that. Then, the mouse/rat is off balance, uncoordinated, and the snake can grab it. The rodent would just be like "what the?"

[JLC]

I am not experienced at all...but what about putting the mouse in a pillowcase first and swinging it around. I have heard of some people doing that. Then, the mouse/rat is off balance, uncoordinated, and the snake can grab it. The rodent would just be like "what the?"

I don't think that's a good idea. Setting aside the "mean factor"....there's no way of knowing how fast the rodent would recover from the "spin," and at that point, it would be a seriously freaked out rodent on the immediate defensive.

It's far better, for both the rodent and the snake, to keep the rodent as calm and unstressed as reasonably possible. If the other steps already mentioned have been taken, the snake should be ready to eat and will usually pounce on the rodent before its even aware there is a snake in the vicinity.

I'd much rather have the rodent "thinking".... Ohhhh....this is a new place...lemme check it out. Rather than, What the...??? Danger danger danger!!

[frankykeno]

I am not experienced at all...but what about putting the mouse in a pillowcase first and swinging it around. I have heard of some people doing that. Then, the mouse/rat is off balance, uncoordinated, and the snake can grab it. The rodent would just be like "what the?"

Not humane for the rodent, that would be first. Secondly, for me anyways, if my snakes can't handle a live rodent without me somehow disabling it for them....they wouldn't get offered live.

[Entropy]

I agree with most everyone else here. I feed predominantly live and hundreds of rodents a month pass through here. I have had two biting incidents that still didn't make any difference to the girls involved and healed quite nicely.

[J.Vandegrift]

If there was no blood or even any pulled back scales I would not even consider that a bite. If it does not break skin it is not really a bit IMO.