Hi im new, i know there are guides but...

[AndyC]

I have had this snake for about 3 days. At first he, I say he even though I haven't the faintest clue, is very submissive and easily startled. When I clean up the droppings or replace the water, he either retreats to his hide or just curls in a ball. But now, almost every time I even approach the cage, I recognize that defensive coil in his neck, he has already snapped at me 5 times, from within the cage. And on one hand I figure he is stressed out and very upset. But on the other I am concerned that maybe he is just always angry/scared. I don't know what to do and it doesn't help when the people at the pet store, even though they claim to own snakes, give advice that goes against books. They tell me to handle him everyday and let him get used to the attention. While the book I am reading, The Ball Python Manual says to allow to the snake to acclimate to the area for a few weeks and to wait until he feeds a few times before handling him. I'm just afraid because I have never felt so lost. I literally know nothing about this, and need a lot of help. I obtained this snake from a friend who had it for literally one day two nights. It’s a 10 gallon tank, 1 hide, and 1 water bowl, and I just bought a heating pad for the bottom, its by Nature’s Heat and I bought it because I am concerned about the temp drop at night. Snake is around a foot (+/- 2 inches) if I had to guess. I plan to replace the set up in December, any advice is greatly appreciated. The reason I am so concerned is for the snake, I want him to be healthy and happy. Thanks Again anything that anyone can contribute would be appreciated. I will post pictures in the pictures forum. I have read a few guides already but still feel a bit unsure, thanks.

[lillyorchid]

Hi there!

Go by what the book says and don't listen to what the petstore people tell ya!
1.) Leave him be for a week - no handling or anything.
2.) Get him another hide that is the same kind of hide that he has now. Snakes need to hides. One on the cool side and one on the warm side.
3.) You will want to look into getting a thermostat for that heating mat you have. A lot of them can get up for 113 degrees.

And last but not least please take a look at this care sheet. It has everything in there that you will need to know. http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=59

Also

[Nate]

Hey Andy. Welcome to the forums. The books are correct, you should let the snake adjust to his enclosure for a week before handling him.

Do you have an accurate way to measure temps? those stick on analogs don't do the job. I recommend Acu-rite...cheapo digital thermometer at Wal-mart..

He needs 2 hides, one on the cool side and one on the warm side...care to post some pictures? that will also help us out in letting you know what to do/what not to do...don't forget there's a search feature at the top, and if you can't find a good answer, we're always open to answer questions.

[Shelby]

Welcome to BP.net!

I'm assuming this is a young ball python.. if so, it's important for them to be in a small cage in order to feel secure. A young baby is much more comfortable in a plastic shoebox (like a rubbermaid or sterilite brand) than a 10 gallon tank.

One hide is not enough.. there should be at the very least two (one for the warm side and one for the cool) if not more.. if the cage is bigger, you need more hides. You can also crumple up some newspaper or paper towels and toss them in there to help him feel more hidden. 'Hides' like those half log things are no good.. a hide must be low, small, and dark. The tighter it is for the snake, the better. Things like plastic house plant saucers with a hole cut in the side or top work great.

The pet store people are wrong.. don't handle the snake until he has eaten for you (and never hold a snake for the 48 hours following a feeding)

You have to make sure your temperatures and humidity are correct. Temps should be 82-84 degrees on the cool side (nothing below 80 degrees anywhere any time) and 92-94 degrees on the warm side. It's important to have a digital thermometer/hygrometer to measure these as the analog ones simply are not accurate. Humidity should be 50-60%.

A heating pad without a thermostat or at least a rheostat on it is dangerous.. they over heat and will burn your snake. If you can't afford a thermostat now (around $70 for the simple but effective on/off type) go to the hardware store and buy a rotary lamp dimmer, and splice the power cord on your heater and solder the dimmer in there. Allows you to keep the temps in a safe range.

I hope this helps.. I probably will think of more later (or others will say something)

Oh, and take a look at our care sheet.
http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=59

[kavmon]

in addition to the above, alot of babies can be nippy. most out grow this after a few months.



vaughn

[rabernet]

Hi and welcome! Agreed with the above - no handling for at least a week, and preferably no sooner than 48 hours after your first successful feed with him.


Here's how "I" set up my babies. I use a 15 quart tub from Dollar General (less than $3) and I use small binder clips from Office Depot to secure the lid.

I soldered out ventilation holes all around the top of the tub.

I use an AcuRite thermometer/hygrometer from WalMart ($12) that takes one AAA battery.

I also use flexwatt undertank heater (UTH) from http://www.reptilebasics.com and use a Ranco thermostat (also from the above site). In this set-up, I use 3" flexwatt.

For the hides, I use small plastic flower pot saucers with the entrances soldered out. In the pictures, I also had a green box that I soldered an entrance into from Dollar General, but it was too large, so she now has two of the saucers.

Disclaimer in these pictures - I was waiting for my flexwatt order and thermostat, so you will see a human heat pad that is set on low (has no auto-off feature). Human heatpads are NOT designed for use with reptile, but can work in a pinch or as a VERY temporary solution - be VERY careful with them, as they can get HOT fast!

[recycling goddess]

1.) Leave him be for a week - no handling or anything.

this is inaccurate. you definitely want to change his water every day or two and if he poops or pees in his cage, you'll want to clean that up as well.

just no touching, no holding for at least one week.

[AndyC]

I would like to thank you guys for responding, I've been a bit busy with a paper and unable to respond right away. But with the new set up, Newspaper, and i crumpled up a few pieces and scattered them he seems much more clam now. As soon as i post this, I'm going to head off to walmart to get some more stuff. more images in the gallery, I am really open to any ideas that anyone has just post it up here. Thanks Again Everyone.




Theres my snake in the new set up, the hide is really big so I'm off to walmart right now to get 2 new smaller hides and the Accu-Temp.


Old Setup was with this NatureBark stuff, although on the bag it only list use for blood pythons. i don't know if it makes a difference but im on newspaper for now.

[rabernet]

Hey Andy! Glad we could help! He's quite a lovely looking little guy! Congrats! I know you're going to have years of enjoyment!

[Shelby]

Aww he's adorable! From what I can see he looks to be healthy.. nice and fat.