Quote Originally Posted by cubano07x
Hey everyone! This is my first post...I've been looking for a forum like this for a while until I finally found this one! Anyway, as the subject line says, I'm a proud new owner of a BP...naturally, I have a lot of questions.

I'll start off with just a few for now. I've been reading a lot about how you need to let the snake relax in its new home without handling for about a week. Thing is, when I first got him, I did the opposite of that...I handled him a lot and within 3-4 days I tried feeding him and of course he didn't eat it. I've had him for about 2 weeks now and I have tried to feed him every so often both frozen and live food but he just isn't eating.

So, I'm wondering, could my prior mistakes have done something extremely bad to him? I'm kinda worried and frustrated cuz I just don't understand snakes!

I've been keeping handling to a minimum since I have read that but have I caused some sort of psychological stress to the snake that he just won't want to eat now? Also, another reason I was handling him was cuz he seems really active. He always comes out of his hide and explores the tank, and if I open the top he'll get out and explore things around him (under my supervision of course).

So any tips? I also own a bearded dragon and the 2 are so different it's just crazy. So any ideas and comments are more than welcome!

Thanks people!
Welcome to BPNet. Don't worry unduly that you've done the snake anytime long term damage, just work the problem. Usually feeding refusals are related first to husbandry so I'll address that first.

This is what we often recommend you buy. It's an Acu-Rite from Walmart (sold under different brand names as well at Home Depot and Lowe's) for around $12.00 plus the cost of a AAA battery. You place the unit itself on the cool side of tank, run the probe wire either under the substrate or out and back into the tank and tuck the probe into the cool side hide. Push a couple of buttons and you get IN temp (cool side), OUT temp (warm side inside the hide) and overall humidity. Find out the actual numbers and then if they are off we can help you adjust them. The stick on temp and humidity analog gauges from the pet store are next to useless.



You want temps 82-84 cool side, 92-94 warm side and an ambient humidity of about 50-60% 24/7, no need to drop temps at night. You can help the snake shed by temporarily upping your humidity to about 60-70% during his entire shed cycle.

Hides - the ones you have while pretty may not be giving your snake the security it needs since they are open on both ends. If possible I'd see if they can be returned to the pet store for a store credit and replaced with simple plastic containers that are dark, heavy and secure. Things like bowls, plastic plant saucers, etc. Do a search for the word "hides" and you should be able to find lots of pics for example. Here's one I use for my bigger females...it's a heavy rubber dog dish that I pay about $4.00 for from a local feed and tack store. Note how tightly the snake fits....BP's feel most secure when they are stuffed very tightly into their hides...a hide should just fit the snake coiled up and have no spare room.



Think about whether the snake's tank is in a busy, high traffic or noisy part of your home. BP's have no external ears but are very reactive to vibrations and a lot of movement...they are very shy, nocturnal snakes. If a lot of loud bass music, stomping, running feet or people staring at them occur...they can stress and refuse to eat. You may need to relocate the snake a bit as they aren't a display type creature.

If possible contact a herp vet for either a fecal float (just take in feces not snake) or a full wellness check and a vent swab (if the snake isn't pooping). Pet store snakes can often carry internal parasites which will affect their willingness to feed.

The pet store may well have lied to you. They always say the snake just ate. It's a very typical sales tool and often not truthful. They also often tell you the snake is captive hatched when it is a recent import.

You mentioned hopper. I assume you mean a hopper mouse which is an awfully small meal for a BP of any decent size. You might want to try an adult mouse of a reasonable size either frozen/thawed, pre-killed or live. A search here will give you information on proper methods of each feeding style or please ask the memebers experienced in this for assistance. Each feeding style has it's right and wrong way to do it to be successful.

Your UTH is under the tank right? Not actually inside the tank under the substrate and carpet? You might want to rethink the carpet as a lot of people have found it traps bacteria from the snake's waste products. BP's don't generally burrow so a nice layer of aspen is more than enough and will allow heat to pass through it to the snake.

I personally wouldn't handle the snake at all until it feeds for at least 3 consecutive weeks with no problems then start with very short, very quiet 5 or 10 minute sessions.

Sorry for the book length post. Please feel free to ask any questions, express concerns, whatever...that's what we are here for.