DIY rat rack

[Bdadawg]

I think this is the best place for this ... if not please feel free to move it.

Seeing as how most rat keepers try to figure out a good, cheap, rack system, I figured Id put up some detailed instructions on how to make them out of the “home depot masonry tubs”.

For the large tubs (36” x 24” x 8”) you will need:
· 4 - tubs
· 12 - 2” x 2” x 8’s
· 1 - 2” x 4” x 8’
· 4 - pieces hardware cloth 36 ½” x 24”
· 1 - staple gun and box of staples (1/2” staples)
· 4 - pieces of cardboard (about ¼” thick)
· A box of 2 ½” screws.

These are the cuts you will need … work with the layout to minimize waste (e.g. you can get 2 36” pieces and one 21 ¼” pieces out of a 2x2x8)
· A 8 – 24 ¼” x 2” x 2”
· B 8 – 33 ¾” x 2” x 2”
· C 4 – 21 ¼” x 2” x 2”
· D 4 – 16” x 2” x 2”
· E 8 – 36” x 2” x 2”
· F 4 – 48” x 2” x 2”
· G 2 – 36” x 2” x 4”

A, B, C, & D are used to make the shelf.
E makes the slide for the tubs.
F Is the legs.
G goes at the bottom of the legs to prevent sway and act as a base.

These need to be set up as in the picture below, with A on the outside of B. The holes should be pre-drilled to minimize splitting, and recessed so you don’t snag on them.

Once you have the shelves put together and set aside its time to do the legs.


Mark the legs (F) at 3”, 13 ½”, 24”, and 34 ½”. The top of the sliders (E) will go at these marks, duplicate until both sides are finished.


Stand both sides up and put a tub on the top slider and bottom slider. This will help to keep the legs standing upright. Place a piece of cardboard on each corner of the tub and place a shelf on top. You will want the divided side facing the front. The cardboard will provide enough spacing so that the tubs will slide easily, but prevent escapees.


I’ve used small pieces of 2” x 2” to act as locks and prevent the tubs from coming out.

The large rack needs to be built in the room, as it is too wide when fully assembled to go through doors. Casters can be added if desired.


For the small tub rack you will need:
· 4 - tubs
· 10 – 2” x 2” x 8’
· 1 – 2” x 4” x 8’
· 4 – 19 ½” x 28 ½” pieces of hardware cloth
· 1 – staple gun and box of ½” staples
· 4 - pieces cardboard (¼” thick)
· 1- box 2 ½” screws

Cuts needed for small rack:
· A 8 – 19 ¾” x 2” x 2”
· B 8 – 26” x 2” x 2”
· C 4 – 16 ¾” x 2” x 2”
· D 4 – 12” x 2” x 2”
· E 8 – 28” x 2” x 2”
· F 4 – 48” x 2” x 2”
· G 2 – 28” x 2” x 4”

A, B, C, & D are used to make the shelf.
E makes the slide for the tubs.
F Is the legs.
G goes at the bottom of the legs to prevent sway and act as a base.

The only difference between setup on the large & small rack is where you make the marks on the legs.

Mark the legs at 3”, 12”, 21”, and 30”. Assemble identical to large rack.

If anything is hard to understand please post back and ill see if I can explain it better.


Bryan

[Bdadawg]

For the small tub rack you will need:
· 4 - tubs
· 10 – 2” x 2” x 8’
· 1 – 2” x 4” x 8’
· 4 – 19 ½” x 28 ½” pieces of hardware cloth
· 1 – staple gun and box of ½” staples
· 4 - pieces cardboard (¼” thick)
· 1- box 2 ½” screws

Cuts needed for small rack:
· A 8 – 19 ¾” x 2” x 2”
· B 8 – 26” x 2” x 2”
· C 4 – 16 ¾” x 2” x 2”
· D 4 – 12” x 2” x 2”
· E 8 – 28” x 2” x 2”
· F 4 – 48” x 2” x 2”
· G 2 – 28” x 2” x 4”

Sorry this was input wrong (and not able to edit it now). It should read:

For the small tub rack you will need:

· 4 – tubs (27 ½” x 19 ¾” x 6”)

· 8 – 2” x 2” x 8’

· 3 – 1” x 2” x8’

· 1 – 2” x 4” x 8’

· 4 – 19 ½” x 28 ½” pieces of hardware cloth

· 1 – staple gun and box of ½” staples

· 4 - pieces cardboard (¼” thick)

· 1- box 2 ½” screws



Cuts needed for small rack:



· A 8 – 19 ¾” x 2” x 2”

· B 8 – 26” x 2” x 2”

· C 4 – 16 ¾” x 2” x 2”

· D 4 – 12” x 2” x 2”

· E 8 – 28” x 1” x 2”

· F 4 – 48” x 2” x 2”

· G 2 – 28” x 2” x 4”

[SnakeySnakeSnake]

Great plans! I was curious if you compiled a price for how much it cost you to build?

How much are the home depot cement tubs (large size?)

Thanks,
Bryan

[SnakeySnakeSnake]

Also, do you use the top as a "hopper" to put lab blocks on and have them pull it through the mesh? If so is there room to add it from the back? or do you just pile it up around near the water bottles.


Thanks

[Bdadawg]

When I went I bought enough for 3 racks ... 1 large & 2 small

the price for the small tubs was $4.98 each, large tubs were 11.47 each.

31 - 2x2x8 = 67.89
8 small tub = 39.84
4 large tub = 45.88
1 box staples = 3.66
2 - 2x4x8 = 5.94
1 box screws = 4.11
5 - 1x2x8 = 9.45
--------------------
total = 176.77

took about 3 hrs a piece to build em (alone).

In the first picture you can see the top is divided, one side is for lab block, the other for food (thanks "Wild Bill" for the idea), the hardware cloth is 1/2" x 1/2".

Bryan

[SnakeySnakeSnake]

Great, thanks Bryan.


Do you include a bowl inside just for special food (pasta, etc?). Is the height of the top too high for certain aged ones to get food?

Thanks again

[Bdadawg]

Great, thanks Bryan.


Do you include a bowl inside just for special food (pasta, etc?). Is the height of the top too high for certain aged ones to get food?

Thanks again

No special bowls anymore ... I find that is just something for them to crap in/on. However I do use 6"x6" ceramic tiles under their water spout as a spot to place odd food and to help file down their nails a bit. When they get dirty I just toss them into the dishwasher (not with dishes)

I provide nests in the tubs, cardboard tubes from carpeting cut into 18-24" lengths. They are 4-5" in diameter. Easy to pull out and toss if they get soiled or start to smell. Carpet retailers have tons of these and are usually happy to have someone take them.

Rats are smart ... if they cant reach the food they will pile bedding underneath that spot or climb, upside down, across the hardware cloth. I wouldnt recommend putting any rats under 6 weeks in a large tub though.

Bryan

[Wild Bill]

In the first picture you can see the top is divided, one side is for lab block, the other for food (thanks "Wild Bill" for the idea), the hardware cloth is 1/2" x 1/2".

Bryan

I guess I should have gotten a patent!!

[Wild Bill]

One more note: you might want to add cross-bracing to that rack to keep it upright and square. Or it might fold like an card table.

[Bdadawg]

One more note: you might want to add cross-bracing to that rack to keep it upright and square. Or it might fold like an card table.

::Grins:: Yeah I found that out ... thats why the 2x4's are at the bottom. It creates the cross bracing needed without blocking airflow. I had thought about the pegboard on the sides but that restricts air movement just a little too much.

On the smaller racks I have added 1x4's vertically in-between the 2x2 legs that is connected to the shelves and sliders ... mostly to prevent the 1x2's from warping and the tubs from moving side to side too much.

Bryan