I run 3 colonies.

Each colony is 1:4 with one female always cycling out (so it would really be 1:5). My breeding stock was purchased from 5 different sources to ensure good genetic viability.

Bereder adults are kept in the Super Pets Cages Think they are 18"t X 24"w X 30"L. Once they are visibly pregnant they are moved into birthing enclosures, these are 96 qt "rubbermaid snap toppers". I cut out the majority of the lid with an electric saw ... put in hardware cloth, and on the inside (where the rats can chew at it) I put in 1.5" 1/8" thick flat aluminum. That was riveted to the top of the lid. Bottles are either the hang on type or the Lixit bottles you screw to the cage. Pictured here are the breeding enclosures and how I made the lids. I must stress that I looked through 20 different tubs to find ones with straight sides (no lips no projections etc anywhere in the tub that the rats could get a bite on).



Here is bottom sides of the lids



I have 7 of these enclosures I normally only use 5-6 at any time. The other ones are always ready to go. When cleaning day comes I switch the rat with babies into the already done tub and put on her lid. The lid and bottle follow the rat. The tub changes every 5 days. When all the ones with pups are done I put the rats in other setups into one of these enclosures while cleaning their enclosures, then transfer them back.

Here are 2 of my grow out enclosures ... One is a christmas tree tub with the same lid conversion. This is for 7 week plus juveniles. The second is a 55 gallon aqauarium for 4-6 week juveniles. PVC "runs" have been added to both enclosures to maximize space. I also add applewood drilled and hung on copper wire for chews. Mostly they use it as roosts.





Bedding is where I pay the most money. I cant yet find aspen in quantites I need. So I use a 50/50 mix of shredder newspaper and cardboard, mixed 50/50 with aspen. This provides fluff, soft bedding, good absorbency, low smell, and a good composting material. 80% of all waste from the rats goes into a compost pile, my garden, my worm bins, or is given away as compost. I still have to "rent" an extra garbage can for waste. This is $7 a month.

Ive found that making sure the rats are temp controlled makes a HUGE difference. Above 76f and they drink alot of water and produce more urine (more smell). Under 65f and they are fairly inactive. I try to keep between 68-72f. Heating, Cooling, Electricity, and water bills have went up about $20 a month (total for all).

My next biggest cost is feed. As im in an agricultural area I feed Sueebees Mix. Nutro Natural For seniors ($34 per 50 lb bag), whole oats, tri-color pasta, grain waste, cereal (mostly cheerios and Total), dried fruit, fresh veggies or fruits nightly, chicken and turkey bones, and some assorted "treats". This all comes out to about $40 a month (I dont currently use a whole bag of dog food a week.) I prefer this diet because I can adjust it instantly to suit the needs of the rats (i.e. A smaller rat with a large litter will wear out fast, I give them more of the pastas and cereals for prolonged energy and to help them bounce back faster)

I spend at least 1 hr a night checking on them, watering, changing water, checking for illness, and preparing diet. Every 5 days (cleaning day) I spend 3 hrs cleaning enclosures, runs, water bottles, nests, etc. Anything that wont fit into the dishwasher gets a bleach wipe down.

Sick or injured animals are quarantined in an entirely different room. I have 4 quarantine cages. Seldom have anything go in there ... but its better than having a whole colony go down with a RI.

At any given time I have 70 pups between pinkies and 5 weeks. Trying to decide at which point they go into the Co2 chamber is a hit and miss scenario. Most of my needs are for pups under 10 days (thats also what I sell the most of). However whenever I put down a large chunk of hoppers I usually get a call for smalls.

Think that covers most of my monthly operating costs. I wish I had gone with a Pro rack system with auto waterers and feeders. That may still come at a later date.

The last thing is if not in rack systems your breeders should be at least had tame as you will be moving them around. I hate it when I have to decide wether or not I need to go get stitches cause one of my females just bit all the way to the bone.

Bryan