New juvenile ball python, feedback appreciated on set-up and care (pics)

[Bogertophis]

7 years is VERY young for a pet snake, so I trust you'll be heavily involved, or this won't work.

1. Feed the snake IN their home where they live. Moving a hungry snake to another container may either get you bit (!) then or afterwards (since snakes stay pumped up in "feed mode" for anywhere from hours to days after eating. OR- a shy snake that is handled prior to feeding may totally REFUSE to eat at all- the only thing that picks up a snake in the wild is a PREDATOR about to eat them- & it takes time for pet snakes to feel safe with us. Feed where they live, in evening/night hours- low lighting, & be low-key about it for best results. Buy & use feeding tongs!

2. Everyone's home is different, as are snake accommodations- what works for some will not for others. Set up & test enclosure for at LEAST a week BEFORE any live snake moves in- it takes time for temps. to stabilize, & if you need other equipment modifications, you may need time to order or install it, & test further. Anything that produces heat should be controlled by thermostats for safety. Changing a cage around after you have a snake may to put them OFF eating due to stress.

3. No handling until the snake has eaten easily at least 3 times in a row at normal (weekly) intervals (not counting refusals due to being in shed- that's normal). Feeding is job #1 for survival.

And don't handle after they eat for a day, preferably 2 days, while they're digesting. Barfing up their meal can actually kill them- you really want to avoid that.
Snakes cannot cough- if they regurgitate their food, they can aspirate & choke to death.

4. Bites hurt, especially to younger children (with softer hands). Learn the snake's body language & understand they bite for several reasons: Self defense (fear!), or confusion when feeding (an honest mistake on their part- use feeding tongs & keep out of their way). Don't keep reaching into their space- they're living animals, not toys.

5. At least 2 hides are essential- also may need a lot more "cover" (privacy) besides hides.

6. Keep reading. Feeding live is okay to start with, but dangerous for your snake when the prey is old & large enough to fight back. (eyes open, either rats or mice) Rodents can kill snakes, especially if the snake isn't hungry- they will ignore the rodent even if it bites them! So NEVER leave live rodents in with your snake- not unless you want large vet bills or a dead snake.

Since you're using a glass tank- you'll need to cover most of the screen to minimize air-flow so as to retain humidity- get a humidity gauge too, one that's accurate. Also, for privacy, it's a good idea to cover the glass on the outside (back & each side) for privacy (can also add insulation for winter if needed) or use a towel over half the cage at least while snake is "settling in". Snakes aren't into "rooms with a view". Tank/enclosure should be in a quiet area- snakes get stressed by doors slamming etc (from vibrations) even though they hear very little- they feel the vibrations.

Understand that most snakes do not recognize us visually- they relate more to our scent & how we touch them. Don't take it personal if they act like they want to bite you thru the glass- it's your motion they're chasing, not actually you! But DO be aware of their mood- either hungry or fearful.

Ball pythons are often said to be great beginner snakes, since they're mostly mellow & docile, & remain a manageable size. That does NOT make them the easiest snakes to keep healthy, however- so again, do your homework to meet the conditions they require. And switch off live prey as soon as you can for best results. (BTW, only put one live hopper in at a time.)

And btw- Good that you chose a snake that's well-started (feeding well). He's pretty too. Do keep a watch for snake mites- just in case- they can kill.