Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 792

1 members and 791 guests
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 75,909
Threads: 249,113
Posts: 2,572,172
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, KoreyBuchanan
Results 1 to 7 of 7

Threaded View

  1. #3
    BPnet Veteran Erie_herps's Avatar
    Join Date
    03-08-2021
    Location
    Midwest, USA
    Posts
    278
    Thanks
    989
    Thanked 380 Times in 201 Posts
    True bioactives for a ball python would be extremely difficult. I would recommend you just try to make a naturalistic enclosure instead. Getting live plants to live and thrive will be extremely difficult, let alone enough to be significant in using waste products. You can get the clean up crew to live and if you choose the right ones, thrive. I'm assuming you would want springtails and isopods, they are the best. I would NOT use dairy cow isopods, they are very protein-hungry and I would worry about them chewing on your snake. I think the best species is Porcellio pruinosus, they are good in high-humidity, they will eat a lot, and they will reproduce quickly. If you want to use a color of them (blue powder, orange powder, oreo crumble, white out, etc.) you can only use one color pattern or else they will cross-breed and most will be wild-type.

    Also, a little bit of advice for your leopard gecko. Leopard geckos don't do well on loose substrate, they can eat the substrate and become impacted. I know someone that had this happen and their leo died from it. Paper towels, slate, tile, or no substrate is the best. But, if you want to try bioactive it could work. Be sure to do it for an adult leopard gecko. Babies and subadults are the most likely to get impacted and die from it. Also, make sure the substrate is very fine. If the gecko eats some you don't want it eating large chunks (like a clump of dirt/sand/clay or large piece of moss). Feed out of a dish. If you want to feed crickets or other loose items feed in a different enclosure so the gecko doesn't eat substrate. Make sure your gecko is getting enough calcium, they will eat substrate when they need more calcium (the purpose of keeping loose calcium in a dish), which you want to avoid. Make sure you are dusting feeders every other feeding and gut-loading them. A low-power UV bulb will also help so they don't want more calcium. Avoid putting an adult female in there (at least not year-round). They will need much more calcium during breeding season (even if not bred) which highly increases the chance of them eating substrate. They will also be much weaker after laying eggs (even if not bred) and impaction would be much more dangerous.

    Sorry that this got a bit too long, I hope this helps. If you have any more questions feel free to ask.
    Last edited by Erie_herps; 03-12-2022 at 10:08 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1