HELP! Baby ball python extremely skinny and corkscrewing!

[KMG]

Yeah, the guy doesn't seem to be malicious but he also hasn't texted me back yet. Time will tell I suppose. I definitely know I need to check my snakes much more thoroughly now. I will absolutely be cleaning every inch of the area if this guy doesn't make it. I used to foster kittens so I definitely have experience scrubbing and disinfecting areas after having sick animals. Hopefully it won't come to that though. The snake has been moving a bit more in the past couple hours, he moved part way out of his hide and then went back in again later so that might be a good sign. He's still lethargic though. We'll see if he eats okay tomorrow night, my fingers are crossed.

When I'm going to look at a snake to possible purchase this is what I do. I go straight to the snake and get it in my hands. I then stand there and ask all my questions and talk about whatever comes up as I'm looking over the snake from head to tail. This gives me time to really examine the animal and get a feel for the person I'm dealing with. This way you are not rushed looking at it. I have never brought an animal home I didn't completely check out.

[Bogertophis]

To build on KMG's post above, here's some things I look for: (I've both bought & sold snakes over the years)
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Look at & feel for the overall muscle tone, grip strength, & balance. (corkscrewing? etc)

Overall body weight- not too thin & not over-fed.

Look for symmetry (any lumps & bumps? can be anything from an abscess to tumors)(any concave areas? -can mean broken ribs)

Kinks in the spine? (feel gently as snake slides thru your hands for any that aren't visible- all the way down to the tail tip) Not always a deal-breaker for a "pet only", but you want to know.

Stuck shed (esp. make sure eyes are clear, & check tail tip- this can indicate not only issues you'll have to take care of but may indicate how much or how little attention the previous owner paid to the snake). Look to see that the skin looks "healthy"- normal texture & no signs of infection, scale rot, fungus or burns.

Check the cloaca area for signs of prolapse, or caked on blood or feces (can indicate parasites & other illnesses).

Check the skin closely for mites or ticks.

Listen to the snake's breathing- you don't want to hear crackling, popping or whistling sounds (might be an RI) -I gently put them near my ear- but be careful if the snake is a biter

Look at the snake's tongue flicks- do the tips stick together? (can be an infection) Does the flicking seem normal or impaired? Any swelling in the throat? (under the chin) can be an infection.

Look into their mouth if at all possible- ask the seller to to do this & show you. Or at least, look at the edges of the mouth- you can often see mouth-rot without fully opening their mouth.

Compare their eyes- look for abnormalities (esp. if you're planning to breed- defects could be genetic), & look for health issues (mites like to hide around the eyes)(look for retained eye caps). I like to use a mini-flashlight to check that their pupils are reactive to light also.

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A reliable breeder should furnish the following- if not offered, ASK. (If you forget some, ask later) A reliable breeder cares about their animals as well as your continued success with them.

The date of hatch, gender if known, feeding record: last fed, & what was fed (rat or mouse, prey size, HOW offered -ie. live or f/t- drop fed, tongs? etc), frequency of meals.

How it was housed helps to know- snakes going from a tiny hatchling's "tub" into a well-meaning person's large tank will probably be a nervous wreck & refuse to eat.

Genetics -especially if it's important to you for future breeding, but also important if there are known associated defects (such as "spider" gene in BPs, etc)

Any illnesses, injuries, treatments for medical issues, esp. if any prescriptions (antibiotics) were EVER given. (This is because they're not without harmful side effects, including the potential for resistant germs, or poor digestion if probiotics weren't given afterwards to help normalize their digestion; also, they can be hard on the snake's liver & kidneys, & if a snake needed future treatment, it would help the vet to know what was given previously.)

(If I forgot anything, I'll add later- it's late)