Looking for advice from more experienced keepers

[Bogertophis]

Thank you. Glad through my own research I came to the same conclusion that someone who's been doing this for decades has. That's exactly what I'm doing with my ball python, well no handling as we haven't gotten 3 feeds yet, but letting him get used to my scent and not thinking every time the enclosure opens he's getting fed. I might just be checking his hot spot temperature.

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Rat snakes (including corns) are more scent-oriented, whereas BPs tend to rely on heat signatures so they might not "get" your scent the way a rat snake will. But it doesn't hurt to give them all the cues you can- snakes can't hear & don't see that well (other than "motion" which can be either prey or predator coming their way), so if you want calm snakes, do your best to communicate thru any means you can. It really helps. They recognize our touch also, but a snake that's thinking "prey" can be hard to approach safely to touch them- that's where "tap (or "hook") training" comes in. I prefer to avoid bites- not that bites from harmless snakes are a big deal, because they're not- but I want my snakes to feel "safe" with me, & communication any way we can truly helps that.

You're asking good questions & I'm glad you got this job- the snakes (& other staff there) needs someone like you, that's asking the right questions & working to improve things.

[Neko_snake]

Rat snakes (including corns) are more scent-oriented, whereas BPs tend to rely on heat signatures so they might not "get" your scent the way a rat snake will. But it doesn't hurt to give them all the cues you can- snakes can't hear & don't see that well (other than "motion" which can be either prey or predator coming their way), so if you want calm snakes, do your best to communicate thru any means you can. It really helps. They recognize our touch also, but a snake that's thinking "prey" can be hard to approach safely to touch them- that's where "tap (or "hook") training" comes in. I prefer to avoid bites- not that bites from harmless snakes are a big deal, because they're not- but I want my snakes to feel "safe" with me, & communication any way we can truly helps that.

You're asking good questions & I'm glad you got this job- the snakes (& other staff there) needs someone like you, that's asking the right questions & working to improve things.

Makes sense. I figure the more cues the better. I definitely didn't know rat snakes were scent-orientated so that is very good information to know. I just want to expand not only my own knowledge but to help others like coworkers and the public to have the knowledge to properly take care of these animals. Information is always changing as we learn more so we have to constantly be learning and expanding our knowledge.

Just so I'm getting as much knowledge from you as possible, we also have an Eastern Kingsnake. I know he's another colubrid and he's also an adult. Should he also be on the same feeding schedule as our corn?

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[Bogertophis]

Yes, adult king snakes- feed about every 10 days- one adult mouse. King snakes are often not as "smart" as corn/rat snakes- they tend to be more food-focused, so be cautious about handling them when hungry. Some are very good, others think hands are edible- it's hard to generalize. For working with the public, it might be best to handle them "midway" between meals -but then watch for a tell-tale bulge above the vent/cloaca that means they're about to take a dump.

[Neko_snake]

Yes, adult king snakes- feed about every 10 days- one adult mouse. King snakes are often not as "smart" as corn/rat snakes- they tend to be more food-focused, so be cautious about handling them when hungry. Some are very good, others think hands are edible- it's hard to generalize. For working with the public, it might be best to handle them "midway" between meals -but then watch for a tell-tale bulge above the vent/cloaca that means they're about to take a dump.

Thank you so much for all the information. I really appreciate it.

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[Bogertophis]

You're welcome. I don't currently have any king snakes, but I've kept various kinds in the past, & bred some of them too. I personally prefer rat snakes, but some kings are awfully nice too- & all snakes are worth knowing & understanding anyway.

[Snagrio]

I'm not sure where they got the information.

Like many things in this rapidly evolving hobby, it's probably simply outdated info. I remember back when I was young (and this is isn't even two decades ago mind you) the overriding majority of pet books I'd read would have a generic "1 meal a week" quota for feeding snakes. No regard for species, age or body condition, just the same rigid, overly basic advice.

[Neko_snake]

Like many things in this rapidly evolving hobby, it's probably simply outdated info. I remember back when I was young (and this is isn't even two decades ago mind you) the overriding majority of pet books I'd read would have a generic "1 meal a week" quota for feeding snakes. No regard for species, age or body condition, just the same rigid, overly basic advice.

Makes sense. That's why I like to keep learning and evolving our care based off the latest information. If we're striving to provide the best care then we have to be knowledgeable about what's best.

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[Neko_snake]

So my coworkers are worried because our corn snake still hasn't eaten. However she ate the 2nd so this would be week 4 she hasn't eaten. She's an adult and she weighs 916 grams and is 115 cm. She also pooped 2 days ago so that's working correctly. I'm not sure we should necessarily be worried yet. Keep an eye on her sure but not necessarily worry.

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[Bogertophis]

So my coworkers are worried because our corn snake still hasn't eaten. However she ate the 2nd so this would be week 4 she hasn't eaten. She's an adult and she weighs 916 grams and is 115 cm. She also pooped 2 days ago so that's working correctly. I'm not sure we should necessarily be worried yet. Keep an eye on her sure but not necessarily worry.

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Unfortunately the measurements you gave don't mean much to me- I go by appearance & never weigh my snakes unless I have to dose a medication, which hasn't been for many years now.

However, a snake that's been over-fed for such a long time is certainly entitled to take a food-"vacation" IMO. As long as she passes a basic "check-up" (no suspicious lumps or swellings? breathing clear- not showing signs of an RI or mouth rot? Stool looks normal? etc.)

FYI, one of my big eaters, a very large adult male FL (yellow+) rat snake just took about 3 mos. off from eating- the first time he's ever done that. He's now back to chowing down. When snakes get older, they need less food- & their body may remind them. BTW, this rat snake is 14 years old. Remember, in the wild, these snakes would be brumating for part of the year, but in captivity, most are not. Most likely "your" corn snake is just fine. And she just defecated too, so as you said, "that's working" okay. There are some keepers that don't believe in feeding snakes on schedule, but only feed once they defecate the previous meal. I'm not saying I would ever do that- that's far less food than most of us feed, but it might be more like what happens in the wild? Since this corn snake just defecated, I'd watch & see if she's not acting hungry in about a week? Another thing- it's likely that elderly snakes don't digest as well as when they were younger. Make sure to only feed lean adult mice- not chubby old breeder-mice.

So 115 cm is just under 4' long- which is a normal size for an adult corn, but not as big as they get. Would help to know this one's actual age.

[Neko_snake]

Unfortunately the measurements you gave don't mean much to me- I go by appearance & never weigh my snakes unless I have to dose a medication, which hasn't been for many years now.

However, a snake that's been over-fed for such a long time is certainly entitled to take a food-"vacation" IMO. As long as she passes a basic "check-up" (no suspicious lumps or swellings? breathing clear- not showing signs of an RI or mouth rot? Stool looks normal? etc.)

FYI, one of my big eaters, a very large adult male FL (yellow+) rat snake just took about 3 mos. off from eating- the first time he's ever done that. He's now back to chowing down. When snakes get older, they need less food- & their body may remind them. BTW, this rat snake is 14 years old. Remember, in the wild, these snakes would be brumating for part of the year, but in captivity, most are not. Most likely "your" corn snake is just fine. And she just defecated too, so as you said, "that's working" okay. There are some keepers that don't believe in feeding snakes on schedule, but only feed once they defecate the previous meal. I'm not saying I would ever do that- that's far less food than most of us feed, but it might be more like what happens in the wild? Since this corn snake just defecated, I'd watch & see if she's not acting hungry in about a week? Another thing- it's likely that elderly snakes don't digest as well as when they were younger. Make sure to only feed lean adult mice- not chubby old breeder-mice.

So 115 cm is just under 4' long- which is a normal size for an adult corn, but not as big as they get. Would help to know this one's actual age.

That's exactly why I say keep an eye on her but not necessarily worry. Unfortunately we don't know her age. I know she sheds every 2-3 months if that helps but that's kinda all the information I have. She's breathing fine, poop was normal. We had let her soak in a tub when she pooped. There's no obvious signs of concern. Just a lack of appetite which could easily be caused by overfeeding.

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