Revamp?!?! Any help highly appreciated

[Caitlin]

You've gotten good advice. I just want to add that a UTH is NOT meant to provide ambient heat (the overall heat level in the enclosure). A UTH is just one tool in setting up your overall temperature gradient. It's great for helping to make a warm spot at the warmest point of the gradient. I love UTH for creating warm spots in tubs or tanks, and they are quite safe as long as they are properly regulated by a thermostat. I recommend UltraTherm UTH - they're extremely well-made; probably the best in the business. You can get them on Amazon or from Reptile Basics or The Bean Farm.

Your snake probably isn't eating for one, or a combination, of reasons: the enclosure doesn't offer enough clutter and hiding spots for him to feel secure; he's too cold (your average temps are overall too chilly); you are handling him too much; you are offering food too often, or you are offering a size he doesn't want (stop being 'ambitious' about feeder size and refer to the feeding charts on this site); he's stressed because you are running a light in his face all the time; you are regulating humidity poorly (spraying or misting or fogging is a lousy way to establish and maintain humidity).

It sounds like you are not using a thermostat. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, GET A THERMOSTAT TO REGULATE TEMPERATURES. GET TWO IF YOU ARE USING A CHE AND A UTH. I really can't emphasize this too strongly. With no thermostat, you snake is at great risk of burns or neurological damage from unregulated heat sources. If you are using a thermostat, I apologize for the caps. I just couldn't tell from your posts, and a thermostat is a life-or-death matter.

As others have mentioned, you can successfully set up a tank for a Ball Python, but it can be a hassle. A tub would be easier while you save up for a nice PVC enclosure. But if you decide to stick with the tank, it can definitely work. The HVAC tape on the screen that others have mentioned works well.

If you set your heating elements up properly you shouldn't need to insulate the tank unless you are dealing with winter temperatures in a cold climate. However, to help your snake feel more secure, you might cover three sides of the enclosure with construction paper or dark plastic film.

Your substrate mix sounds fine. I'd suggest making it deeper - you want at least 2". Don't waste time misting. Pour a cup or so of water into it and stir it around thoroughly about once a week, until it is just slightly damp to the touch but doesn't drip water when you squeeze it. Fluff it daily; spot-clean it daily. Misting doesn't do anything but artificially spike humidity; foggers and misters are great for creating clouds of bacteria.

A shallow, wide water bowl placed directly under your heat source can help with additional evaporation.

You can also make a humidity hide so that your snake can choose a more humid micro-environment when he wants to.

Stop handling him for now. Focus on getting his temperature gradient set up properly and on providing him with appropriate hides, clutter, and an overall sense of security. Don't bother him with offering food until you get temperature sorted out - if he eats and is chilled, you risk regurgitation and that's dangerous. But don't delay, either. At his size he shouldn't be refusing to eat.

If setting up the tank correctly feels like too much of a struggle at the moment, get him set up in a Sterilite or Iris tub. We can help with that.

Hang in there; I know it can be a little overwhelming to take in as much information as we are sharing with you here. Ask questions when you need to.