Bp won't eat

[dakski]

As Bogertophis said, the cool side could be a little lower. I aim for 78-80F in the spring and summer and fall when my BP eats. She does fast all winter and I keep the cool side closer to 76-78F in the winter. For what's worth, she starts fasting before things cool down. She knows. If she was eating, I might keep the cool side closer to 80F (tops) but that's irrelevant, because she fasts like clockwork.

If your BP is a male, 1,000G is about when they often start fasting, especially in winter. Usually a little heavier for a female, but it depends.

As Bogertophis asked, it's important to know what you are feeding. Your BP should be eating small rats at this point and probably indefinitely. My 2KG female eats small rats every two weeks. A similar schedule for your guy makes sense. If he tends to skip meals, you can move to every 3 weeks and see if that helps. When I offered her larger meals, she skipped a lot even during the summer. Small rats means she really doesn't refuse unless in shed or during the winter.

During winter, she usually loses about 7% of her body weight and makes it right back up. To be clear, I weigh her dry (after going to the bathroom) and regularly so I know what her average weight is going into fast. I use that weight to see how much she's really lost. With her body condition and age (8 1/2 years old) she could go a year before I'd really worry about her not eating. Having said that, I know my temps and humidity are where they should be.

A BP can lose 80G peeing and/or pooping. Are both weights "dry" weights? Even if they are, I wouldn't sweat it yet.

Also, do not offer too much. If he's refused two meals in a row. Offer no more than 1X a month until he's eating again. Offering and refusing means stress for the snake.

Get your temps dialed in and make sure you are checking them with an IR temp gun and below the substrate - BP's will dig and if 90F on top and 95F below, for example, that might stress him out too and can be dangerous.

Good luck and keep us posted.