Hi,
Actually it's a privately owned forum - we just don't tend to restrict what anyone posts as long as it is within the rules. Since the day it started the Admin team have been the owners responsible for the bills etc. We just don't tend to mention it much.
So don't worry, if the bailiffs come knocking, it will be me with one leg out the window holding a suitcase. Lets hope not though as I live two floors up.
Not sure where you got this but hotter temps will speed up the snakes metabolism, so if you do try it without factoring in how much extra food you need to provide to compensate they will probably gain less weight in the long run. The breeding as well is much more focused on the body condition rather than just weight as I have seen horribly obese snakes with the weight over 1500g that are in no way fit to breed. I've also seen older, smaller, snakes under 1500g that bred perfectly well.
Glass tanks can be insulated on the outside with either polystyrene (Sp?) or cork sheeting to improve the insulation. We have some stickies that give good advice on how to do it.
As you have indicated there is no "one way" to keep these snakes in terms of temps or enclosures - lots of things can be made to work. VPI, for example keeps their animals in much different temp regimes than we initially advise.Both David and Tracy however are professional biologists and are incalculably better at spotting when things need changing. What we generally do is advise on a simple setup that will work for the majority of the species while people have a chance to get to know their animals well enough to start personalising things.
We also don't tend to judge on the FT/Live debate - I'm in the UK and have only ever fed F/T. But, as long as it is done correctly and responsibly to all animals involved, I have no problem with it.
Del