Questions about my daughter's new BP

[dr del]

Hi,

Your post is on a public forum. People are going to comment, or in this case disagree.

People come here to learn, and sharing inaccurate info doesn't help anybody.

Not trying to attack you, I'm sorry if you thought that, I apologise. Really wish you would just let it go. I don't hold on to the past.

Not sure why you feel you are the only one who is allowed to post and have an opinion. You keep trying to discredit me and degrade me. I never did that to you. As you said, if you don't like it don't post. If you don't like it block me. It's a public forum right?

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Actually it's a privately owned forum - we just don't tend to restrict what anyone posts as long as it is within the rules. Since the day it started the Admin team have been the owners responsible for the bills etc. We just don't tend to mention it much.

So don't worry, if the bailiffs come knocking, it will be me with one leg out the window holding a suitcase. Lets hope not though as I live two floors up.

Wrong again, unfortunately, you have zero scientific papers or articles to back you up. Most of your information is from breeders and enthusiasts who tried something and it worked, that's not science.

Breeders are going to run hotter temps to get the BPs to gain weight faster so they can breed quicker as well as sell quicker. This is not true for your average BP keeper when long life and health is a priority.

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Not sure where you got this but hotter temps will speed up the snakes metabolism, so if you do try it without factoring in how much extra food you need to provide to compensate they will probably gain less weight in the long run. The breeding as well is much more focused on the body condition rather than just weight as I have seen horribly obese snakes with the weight over 1500g that are in no way fit to breed. I've also seen older, smaller, snakes under 1500g that bred perfectly well.

In attempt to get back on topic in the winter time how is it possible to heat a glass aquarium, to above 75 degrees without raising house temps to 78? Who is going to actually do that for 1 BP? If you run a CHE your humidity plummets and that's a whole other issue. The other option being a space heater that needs to somehow be regulated. What's the suggestion toss the whole setup?

I ended up putting in a second heat mat with hide set 80 degrees with sphaghnum moss to keep humidity maintaining 88, 80 and 72 spots. Worked great. In the wild temps go down to 68 all the time, they either move to hotter location or fast until the weather goes back to normal. I don't see an issue.

According to you I should just keep quiet until I get 15 years under my belt in order to post. Why?

Feeding live works for me right now and for my particular situation. That might change in the future who knows.

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Glass tanks can be insulated on the outside with either polystyrene (Sp?) or cork sheeting to improve the insulation. We have some stickies that give good advice on how to do it.

As you have indicated there is no "one way" to keep these snakes in terms of temps or enclosures - lots of things can be made to work. VPI, for example keeps their animals in much different temp regimes than we initially advise.Both David and Tracy however are professional biologists and are incalculably better at spotting when things need changing. What we generally do is advise on a simple setup that will work for the majority of the species while people have a chance to get to know their animals well enough to start personalising things.

We also don't tend to judge on the FT/Live debate - I'm in the UK and have only ever fed F/T. But, as long as it is done correctly and responsibly to all animals involved, I have no problem with it.


Del