How to set up a PVC cage (AP T8) With Pictures!

[reptilemom25]

OK, so i just ordered a 3x2x15" PVC cage from boamaster (didn't want to wait 3+ months from AP). I got a 40 watt RHP and 24" flourescent light fixture. My question is, should i use flexwatt or not? Do I need to provide belly heat if the rhp is maintaining the hot side temp? I have her in a tub right now, with a CHE and flexwatt. It takes both to get enough heat without dropping the humidity. I am wondering if I need the flxwatt, or if putting something for her to hang out on that is warmed by the RHP, like a piece of slate, would be ok?

[XPLSV]

OK, so i just ordered a 3x2x15" PVC cage from boamaster (didn't want to wait 3+ months from AP). I got a 40 watt RHP and 24" flourescent light fixture. My question is, should i use flexwatt or not? Do I need to provide belly heat if the rhp is maintaining the hot side temp? I have her in a tub right now, with a CHE and flexwatt. It takes both to get enough heat without dropping the humidity. I am wondering if I need the flxwatt, or if putting something for her to hang out on that is warmed by the RHP, like a piece of slate, would be ok?

Where did you end up with this? For longer cages with a RHP on one end, it may be possible the gradient results in too low of a temp on the far end (I'm guessing not in your case). In that instance, a low end setting on a separate thermostat could regulate the low end temp of the cage in the event it is dropping too much. Checking temps would tell you one thing, observing where your animal hangs out could also be an indicator. Some people want to cycle day and night temps and I think the addition of flexwatt to an existing RHP in a two thermostat setup gives additional options for fine tuning.

[reptilemom25]

Where did you end up with this? For longer cages with a RHP on one end, it may be possible the gradient results in too low of a temp on the far end (I'm guessing not in your case). In that instance, a low end setting on a separate thermostat could regulate the low end temp of the cage in the event it is dropping too much. Checking temps would tell you one thing, observing where your animal hangs out could also be an indicator. Some people want to cycle day and night temps and I think the addition of flexwatt to an existing RHP in a two thermostat setup gives additional options for fine tuning.

I have found that the 40 watt RHP has done a great job. I get 88 hot side and 79-80 cool side. Astrid uses both.


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[Mcm730]

I recently got a T8 heated only by a 75 watt pro heat panel, and am using a herpstat 1! However, I’m having a lot of trouble getting the temps that I need! I either have hot side spots in excess of 99°, or cool side floor temps around 70-73 degrees! I currently have my probe hanging just above the cool side hide, and set to 80°. However, even with the probe reading 80° I appear to have uncomfortably low cool side temps sitting around 74° at the substrate, and a hottest temp of around 103° on top of his hot side hide. I can’t seem to get any help anywhere and I’m a bit desperate. What do I need to do to get this right?

[widget]

Does anyone have pictures of the holes for the lighting/heat panels? What prevents slimmer species of snakes (kingsnakes, etc) from being able to escape?

[XPLSV]

Does anyone have pictures of the holes for the lighting/heat panels? What prevents slimmer species of snakes (kingsnakes, etc) from being able to escape?

I'm at work now, so no pics. The radiant heat panels have a small pre-cut hole to route through the electrical wire: the wire comes with no plug on the end. You push the wire through the hole, then cram it down into the slot, then you attach the provided plug by sticking the wire into the clamshell type plug and squeezing it shut with a pliers. No snake will fit through there. The LED lighting is similiarly routed through a pre-cut hole in the cage but has a mid-wire plug connection that the remainder of the wire-plug combination plugs into (think of a stereo headphone extension). Again, no snake will fit through that. I drilled some additional holes for temperature and humidity sensors.

When I get home tomorrow, I'll try and post a pic, unless someone has already provided one.

[widget]

Thank you! If it’s too much work you don’t have to worry about the pictures, I just wanted to make sure they can’t escape.

[jevenator]

I thought I'd share my experience in case anyone is interested in an AP T8 (quick ship)

I placed my order on Nov 12, 2020 and finally had it shipped out on Feb 17, 2021. ALOT longer than I expected from when I first called in and they said around 30-45 days. Currently in the process of dialing in my humidity/temps but I can tell it's going to be a lot easier than my glass tank I have right now.

I was recommended the Pro-Products PH3 75watt heater for this size and so far it's giving me a pretty good gradient with a temp probe in the middle of the enclosure towards the back wall.
What about the RHP itself? They write you can't burn your snake with it but it's like 180F depending if it's on or off with my laser thermometer. Do my temps really have to stabilize first?

[jmcrook]

I thought I'd share my experience in case anyone is interested in an AP T8 (quick ship)

I placed my order on Nov 12, 2020 and finally had it shipped out on Feb 17, 2021. ALOT longer than I expected from when I first called in and they said around 30-45 days. Currently in the process of dialing in my humidity/temps but I can tell it's going to be a lot easier than my glass tank I have right now.

I was recommended the Pro-Products PH3 75watt heater for this size and so far it's giving me a pretty good gradient with a temp probe in the middle of the enclosure towards the back wall.
What about the RHP itself? They write you can't burn your snake with it but it's like 180F depending if it's on or off with my laser thermometer. Do my temps really have to stabilize first?

What type of thermostat are you using? An on/off type will turn the panel on full blast until it reaches the temp and then turn off and could explain the 180° reading. It should mellow out a bit once stabilized though. I have two of the same set up and the panels regularly get 120°+ when running. Unless your snake figures out how to levitate and lay against the panel for extended periods you’ll be fine.


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[jevenator]

Yeah, I think it's the on/off types. It's the ZooMed RepitiTemp RT-600. They're the "cheapest" I'd go with. Is an upgrade to something like a Herpstat 1 Basic worth it?

I've also seen different temp positions such as hanging it secured w/ some hot glue. The probes are pretty fat plastic ones where I'd need to drill a new hole if I wanted to run it through the wall. I wouldn't be able to pass it through the LED or RHP hole already drilled.

I've been running it for about 16 hours now.
Temps in F.

95-97 on top of rock hide
88-92 on substrate around hide and in hide
85-80 to about the middle
Then it's 75 on the opposite side near the wall I understand that the 75 if LOWEST you should really have. But then again my BP only goes out at night to explore and usually ends up coming back to her warm hide always. On my old/current setup I was able to get 90-92F belly heat 24/7 with a UTH.
83F in the air ambient.

Is this fine or should I play with a different temp probe position? It's currently set to 85F