Antaresia (Childrens or Spotted Python)

[sur3fir3]

SO... I have been debating internally on what the next species I get will be. I still don't know if I am going to get another Blood Python or not. But my second choice is a python from Antaresia (Childrens or Spotted Python). I can keep these long term in my VE-6. Plus they are easy to breed. Now I have been reading that these snakes can cohab. I have the room to keep them seperate. I just wanted to know if there is any reason to keep them together? The tub they will be in is more than large enough to keep 2 of these in it. I know that normally people say do not cohab any snakes, but in a few different caresheets about these pythons mention cohabbing. So is this species different than most others? I would like an answer from someone who actually has experience with snakes in this Genus(not sure if this is the right thing to call it). I know according to everything I read about snakes in general mention cohabbing garter snakes, but nothing on Antaresia. I believe that is probably because it isn't a very common species. I would appreciate any advice.

I would also like anyone with experience keeping these guys to chime in about husbandry and temperment please.

Thanks.

[Bogertophis]

Antaresia is the scientific name, higher classification...not a place. As far as I know, Children's is very similar to Spotted, a little smaller, but I have no
experience with those.

I have one of these (Spotted, granite phase 0.1) & have kept her for a good 10 years now...she's an excellent pet & no bigger than a corn snake. But I would
never dream of co-habbing 2 (or more) of these...mainly because of the food response. It's impressive, & at least with my girl, not based on temperature, just a
bit of motion, so the chance of her pouncing on a moving cold-blooded cage-mate is pretty darn high, in my opinion. And she's a very strong, determined little
constrictor with quite the grip strength...I think "room-mates" would easily kill each other. And as hatchlings, they start off eating lizards in the wild, not rodents-
they only switch to small rodents as they grow bigger & braver, which means a cage-mate could EASILY be mistaken...more like a lizard than a rodent. I don't
know how reliable the information you got is, but I just would never co-hab. them. It's "asking for it". They can actually be AFRAID of pinky mice...that's
how I got mine...the guy who bred these wanted her to take live & she just refused...so for people who want a pet that likes f/t naturally, this is a GREAT choice!

Mine has a great appetite, but has only ever nipped me once accidentally in 10 years. She handles well & has even met the public very successfully on several
occasions, doing hours of "meet & greets" without any trouble. These like it warmer than corn snakes do, so IMO she's been a perfect snake for this purpose.

Mine is in a glass tank w/ screen top, & 3 hides (warm, unheated, & humid semi-heated). She NEEDS the humid hide to shed well. She never refuses food unless
in shed, & has preferred f/t or fresh-killed mice of appropriate size (no warming needed) from the beginning. As an adult, I give her 1-2 hoppers or a small adult
mouse (her gape isn't that huge), & her health is obvious (beautiful iridescence that even non-snake-people notice & comment on). She loves to bask at night on
her driftwood branches under warming light (or use CHE if you like), & despite being more nocturnal, she is always ready for action by day if she feels vibrations
nearby; she's curious, very cute, & a very strong climber. Highly recommended as pets.

[Bogertophis]

Until I figured out a name for my female, I called her Aunt Theresa... (Easy way to remember "Antaresia", lol.)

[Cheesenugget]

SO... I have been debating internally on what the next species I get will be. I still don't know if I am going to get another Blood Python or not. But my second choice is a python from Antaresia (Childrens or Spotted Python). I can keep these long term in my VE-6. Plus they are easy to breed. Now I have been reading that these snakes can cohab. I have the room to keep them seperate. I just wanted to know if there is any reason to keep them together? The tub they will be in is more than large enough to keep 2 of these in it. I know that normally people say do not cohab any snakes, but in a few different caresheets about these pythons mention cohabbing. So is this species different than most others? I would like an answer from someone who actually has experience with snakes in this Genus(not sure if this is the right thing to call it). I know according to everything I read about snakes in general mention cohabbing garter snakes, but nothing on Antaresia. I believe that is probably because it isn't a very common species. I would appreciate any advice.

I would also like anyone with experience keeping these guys to chime in about husbandry and temperment please.

Thanks.

I have a Childreni.

Do not cohab them. These snakes eat reptiles as well as mammals in the wild.

Tubs are not recommended for them. These are semi arboreal snakes who like to climb.

29 gallon tall tank at minimum for adults, or even bigger for females.
5.5 gallon tank for babies.
Hot spot at about 88F.
Cool side no lower than 75F.
No higher than 30% humidity.
Aspen for substrate. Babies may burrow. Adults prefer to climb.
2 identical hides, one on each side.

Pros: great eaters, small size, very cute, naturally beautiful, hardy as heck, easy to care for, mistakes are easily forgiven, captive bred only in the market, very affordable, gaining popularity in the US market, no known morphs for sale in the US yet so that could be a plus for those seeking to keep only wild types, and unique for being one of the few smallest pythons in the world being kept as a popular pet.

Cons: I do not recommend this snake for first time snake owners because of the potential for biting. They have a reputation for being nippy as babies and that was true for me. It is not like a baby corn: they bite with force and can be relentless at the start. I was bitten by mine about 15 times in one handling session, and I did nothing to him prior but sitting there motionless and quiet, and he was calm minutes prior, so having some experience in reading snake behavior helps but be prepared for several nips and bites. They move fast when they want to, from calm to strike. They also have a powerful grip. I do not recommend them for shows or to be handled by children unless you have a very well tempered adult snake, even that is risky.

Idk where you got your sources from. I rely mainly from the ones who breed, keep them privately or in zoos, and studies completely in Australia. They know their Childreni.

[sur3fir3]

I have a Childreni.

Do not cohab them. These snakes eat reptiles as well as mammals in the wild.

Tubs are not recommended for them. These are semi arboreal snakes who like to climb.

29 gallon tall tank at minimum for adults, or even bigger for females.
5.5 gallon tank for babies.
Hot spot at about 88F.
Cool side no lower than 75F.
No higher than 30% humidity.
Aspen for substrate. Babies may burrow. Adults prefer to climb.
2 identical hides, one on each side.

Pros: great eaters, small size, very cute, naturally beautiful, hardy as heck, easy to care for, mistakes are easily forgiven, captive bred only in the market, very affordable, gaining popularity in the US market, no known morphs for sale in the US yet so that could be a plus for those seeking to keep only wild types, and unique for being one of the few smallest pythons in the world being kept as a popular pet.

Cons: I do not recommend this snake for first time snake owners because of the potential for biting. They have a reputation for being nippy as babies and that was true for me. It is not like a baby corn: they bite with force and can be relentless at the start. I was bitten by mine about 15 times in one handling session, and I did nothing to him prior but sitting there motionless and quiet, and he was calm minutes prior, so having some experience in reading snake behavior helps but be prepared for several nips and bites. They move fast when they want to, from calm to strike. They also have a powerful grip. I do not recommend them for shows or to be handled by children unless you have a very well tempered adult snake, even that is risky.

Idk where you got your sources from. I rely mainly from the ones who breed, keep them privately or in zoos, and studies completely in Australia. They know their Childreni.

Would 18 inches high be enough veritacl room for an adult? I have a tub that is 18 inches high. It is 3 foot by 4 foot. This is why I was thinking of Cohab. But I wont. I have smaller tubs, but they dont have the vertical room.

[Bogertophis]

Would 18 inches high be enough veritacl room for an adult? I have a tub that is 18 inches high. It is 3 foot by 4 foot. This is why I was thinking of Cohab. But I wont. I have smaller tubs, but they dont have the vertical room.

yes

[Cheesenugget]

Would 18 inches high be enough veritacl room for an adult? I have a tub that is 18 inches high. It is 3 foot by 4 foot. This is why I was thinking of Cohab. But I wont. I have smaller tubs, but they dont have the vertical room.

I don't recommend tubs at all for them unless you drill numerous holes to keep the humidity to less than 50%. Secondly, Childreni are experts at escaping. Most snakes are but these guys have very small heads. Mine escaped his quarantine tub twice. Never again will I risk it again and I immediately switched to a lockable tank.

Lastly, the higher the better. 18 inches is okay but preferably 21 inch or taller. Ground space is still important, they do use it mostly for sleep and shedding but they are most active off the ground. Again, that applies mostly to adults. Babies prefer to burrow. So if you get a baby, you still have time to get a tall tank later.

[Bogertophis]

I agree with Cheesenugget's post ^ ^ ^ ^ ^