My 1 1/2 year old leopard gecko

[Awesomethepossum]

If you mean the heat pad. No I do not have it hooked up to a thermostat. I dont have it connecting when it's hot like these days (i live in california and it's like 100 outside for 2 months everyday in summer).when the heat pad is connected in the summer it doesnt like to lay above where it is at.

During the day my ambient air temp (according to the guage) is at about 80°F.i have never had a basking spot for Riley, as a he gets far away from both 75watt and heat pad areas when they are on day or night. He will actually just lay right outside in of any hiding area.

I will need to invest in a digital thermostat as I truly do not know what the temps are like...they may be higher then 80 ambient. The heat pad on the floor beats me but it may be high cause when it's on it doesnt like to lay near it especially in these summer days

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To make a leopard gecko happy, you need:

-A 20 gallon tank minimum for an adult (floor space is preferred over height). They need a temperature gradient to thermoregulate.

-An appropriately sized UTH (under tank heater) on one side, under the outside of the tank, to provide belly heat (which is crucial for digestion)

-A thermostat (method of temp regulation), which the UTH needs to be plugged into. With this, you can set the UTH at a specific temperature, and it will be maintained in this way. These thermostats have a probe, which senses the temp at the site it is placed. Some put the probe under the tank directly ol n the UTH, whole others secure it inside the tank. Again, directly on the UTH.

-Appropriate flooring/substrate: Paper towels are easy to clean and safe, so this is preferred for most. Some use play sand (never use calci-sand, or anything else) but with any loose substrate there is always a risk of impaction, as leos lick everything.

-Hides: There needs to be at least one hide on each end of the tank. They need to be large enough for the leo to hide and feel secure.

-A humid hide, with moss, to aid in shedding (without proper humidity, shed skin can be retained on areas, such as toes and can result in constriction (which results in loss of toes)). If proper humidity isn't allowed, the leo can also develop respiratory infections or even bacterial infections in the eyes.

-A temp gun, to manually gauge temperatures in the tank with accuracy. This is a must-have.

-An appropriately-sized water dish, which can also help provide some humidity if needed.

-A CHE, or an additional source of heat which can be used as needed ti maintain a proper temp gradient. This must also be hooked to a thermostat.

- Supplementation. Multivitamins, as well as calcium with vitamin D. Feeders should be dusted regularly, but not daily.

I also provide a dish with some calcium at all times, although some may disagree.