Sick beardie

[Cheesenugget]

I've had the coil uvb for almost a year. I used the strip before, but when I started to search for a new uvb, I saw the double sided lamp that comes with the coil uvb, which I thought would be easier to replace and would be as helpful. The strip uvb I now have is a whole new fixture I just purchased a few days ago, and is currently on.

All UVB bulbs need to be changed every 6 months (T8) or up to 8 months (T5). Even if it still works, it needs to be changed.

With mesh lids, you need a T5, not a T8. T5 is stronger and penetrates through the mesh better than T8. If you keep the T8, it needs to be installed inside the tank. The distance between the T5 and basking spot should be about 10 inch. Too close, your beardie will get burned. Too far, she will get less of the rays coming through the mesh. The difference in a T5 and T8 is the size. T5 is stronger because it is slimmer and more concentrated. The brand of bulb I use is the Reptisun High Output or HO 10.0 T5 bulbs. Make sure it says High Output.

I had seen the Zilla desert UVB fixtures. I have heard that they malfunction a lot. I generally do not use Zilla because their basking bulbs do not last. Whatever fixture you use, keep in mind the above info I gave you. I have the Zoo Med fixture. You cannot use a T8 bulb in a T5 fixture and vice versa. If you switch, you will need to buy the fixture meant for T5. These are not commonly found in stores and that is terrible shame, imo, when T5 works so much better for desert species like beardies. I bought mine from Amazon. It is expensive but worth the long term investment.

Other brands recommended is the Sunglow which is a mercury vapor bulb that has heat and UV rays. I recommend mercury vapor bulbs only for tanks over 4 feet long as they are pretty strong.

The fixture should be no longer than 2/3 of the length of the tank if you do not have places for her to hide in or go under.

Ditch the black light. No lights at night. The black light is controversial and not worth it if you don't need it. Lizards can see light in certain spectrum that we cannot. Beardies do not normally sleep in a hide so this can be bothersome to them.

Your 100 watts bulb for heat for a 40 gallon breeder is an overkill. Too hot, your beardie may avoid or not bask properly or not as much. Too much heat/unwilling to step closer to the UVB bulb: less UV rays get in her body. A 75 watts should get achieve the temps you need easily, even at 10 inch away from the lid. Always measure your temps when you switch lights and then confirm them every now and then.

Keep soaking her in Pedialyte. You will need a vet asap for your beardie. If she is not attentive or lays there, that means it is serious.

To me, it sounds like the lighting may be the main issue, but there may be additional issues. How many times do you supplement Calcium D3 and multivitamin in her food per week from day 1 until now? Make sure it is Calcium with D3, not without D3.

If she has mbd, it is not the end. Lethargy is a common first sign. Usually, once the lighting is corrected, she will gain a better appetite. But if there is any damage, it is permanent. She may need shots from the vet and other supporting care. Beardies are tough and I had seen much worse. So again, take her to the vet who knows beardies. Fix your lighting in the meantime and get a thermometer for the temps.

Pick up some wax worms, hornworms and black soldier fly larvae. The last 2 is high in calcium and hornworms is a favorite among lizards. Hornworms have a lot of water too. Don't feed too much in one go though.

Take her outside sunning (with a leash on her or hold onto her) every day or every week for a few hours at a time. The best UV is the sun. I had seen appetite improvements when the lizards get some sunning.