Is that 92-93* on the surface of the substrate or on the surface of the actual glass with substrate pushed away? This is an important difference, because your
snake will undoubtedly push the substrate away & you don't want them contacting a surface that is too hot. (-that is hot enough to cause them damage)
The wood blocks might be thicker than you need: the more space you leave, the more that the cooler air from the room enters underneath the cage. I mostly
use thick rubber weatherstripping on all the bottom edges of my tanks, leaving a few 2" gaps on opposite sides of the tank for wires to pass underneath without
the weight of the cage on them, and so there is just a little "breathing space" for the safe operation of UTH.
Also, if your room is that chilly, you can do one of 2 things to keep heat in the tank:
1. Either insulate under the tank with some of your foam (or other safe materials) where the UTH is NOT located...or, better yet...
2. Block all but 2 gaps around the bottom edges of the tank (between the tank & the cabinet it sits on) so that basically the extra heat from the UTH builds up
under the tank & slightly warms most of the cage floor. I've been using UTH for decades, literally, & to help protect my wood furniture from drying out from
the constant UTH heat, I also put some thin ceramic tiles under the tanks as a "heat sink". If your power goes off, they help retain & radiate warmth upwards,
and they also help protect the wood.
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