First off, take a deep breath... We'll help you and your snake through this.
It would definitely help to know more about your setup...
- what type and size enclosure?
- how are you heating the enclosure? ARE YOUR HEAT SOURCES REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT??
- what are your temps? He are you measuring temps?
The more you tell us, the better we can help you.
I'm only asking about the setup to confirm all is good there, but there's one MAJOR thing you're doing wrong...
FEED YOUR SNAKE INSIDE HIS/HER ENCLOSURE!!
Feeding tubs are old school and proven counter productive over time. There is literally ZERO benefit to using a separate feeding tub. In fact, the feeding tub is almost DEFINITELY your feeding problem.
Feeding tubs:
A) increase the chance of the snake refusing food. Moving the snake = stress. Stress = refusal.
B) increase the chance of the snake regurgitating it's meal. Again, moving = stress. Stress = regurge.
C) increase your chances of getting bit. Snakes remain in feed mode after eating and can be very defensive. Defensive + feed mode = you getting tagged.
Honestly, I'm willing to bet this is the problem, but knowing more about your setup is just as important.
Think of it this way...
BPs are ambush predators who spend most of their lives hidden. They feel most comfortable eating when they are protected and don't feel vulnerable. Sooooo, moving the snake OUT of it's comfort zone makes absolutely no sense at all.
Feed at night, while the snake is in its hide. Don't move the hide, leave the snake alone. Letting the mouse defrost in the room where the snake is should allow him to smell the prey and "get ready to strike". You may even see his nose poking out of his hide.
Then heat the prey item and dangle it in front of the hide, but not too close to scare the snake.
Good luck, keep asking all the questions you need to. We're happy to help you and your snake.